Outer tie rods

[dastrups]

Need some advice. I was trying to reach 50ft/lbs and it went kind of loose before I ever reached the torque spec. Does anyone know what I did wrong and how to fix it? I was using the castle but and I hadn’t quite gotten to the point where I could insert the cotter pin before this happened.

 

[Ross]

So is your castle nut in the yellow circle?

If yes, then this ball joint shaft is tapered. Check that the billet aluminum piece has the taper going the correct direction for the steel ball joint shaft. It is possible to assemble the billet part upside down, or on the wrong side.

If your castle nut is inside this yellow circle

Well then you may have stripped the threads. Take it apart and inspect it.... buy replacement parts.

 

[Ross]

AllDataDIY says only 44 foot pounds, and that is for the cast iron Cobalt part.
The billet aluminum Goblin part might not even need that much torque.

 

[Brett]

I had this same issue with the DF supplied ends and replace them with ends from Napa. The nuts kept stripping out. I believe that DF now includes better nuts.

 

[dastrups]

AllDataDIY says only 44 foot pounds, and that is for the cast iron Cobalt part.
The billet aluminum Goblin part might not even need that much torque.

View attachment 20732

I tried it with the supplied locking nut on the other tie rod and did 44 ft/lbs. Worked great.

 

[dastrups]

Had to grind off the castle nut because the threads stripped. I will have to use a tap/die set to rework the threads. I had the tapered end down for the steering arm. Is that the right way?

 

[Ross]

The smaller end of the taper goes towards the nut, which is actually on top.
Thanks Brett for telling us of the issue with the castle nuts.
Here I have exaggerated yellow lines showing the hidden tapered shaft.

 

[Brett]

Had to grind off the castle nut because the threads stripped. I will have to use a tap/die set to rework the threads. I had the tapered end down for the steering arm. Is that the right way?

I hate to say it but this is a critical component. If you had to grind then I would spend the 20 dollars for a replacement. I would want the piece of mind.

 

[ctuinstra]

I’m cringing the whole time reading this. The last thing you want is that castle nut failing and relying on just the cotter pin. I would remove both of them and replace them with better ones.

 

[TheNuker]

Yeah no kidding, if that failed on the highway your a goner! Just spend the money.....

Nuker-

 

[dastrups]

The smaller end of the taper goes towards the nut, which is actually on top.
Thanks Brett for telling us of the issue with the castle nuts.
Here I have exaggerated yellow lines showing the hidden tapered shaft.
View attachment 20747

Sweet. Got it right. Thank you!

 

[dastrups]

Is this the right part?

 

[dastrups]

Oh and do you guys put your steering arm on the bottom holes or top holes? I know there was a discussion on bump steer but not sure.

 

[Brett]

I used napa 2692693 for the front.

I believe I followed the videos on the holes used for the steering arms.