V1 Rear camber adjustment?

[KLMOTORSPORTS]

I am running BC racing struts in back...not seeing anyway to adjust camber if I would want to...am I missing something or is there a way to do this?

Thanks!
Ken

 

[Vwsaabvt]

you can get excentric bolts for the top hole of the steering knuckle for some adjustment.
like these https://www.autoanything.com/suspen...MInsmusIH-5QIV0hZ9Ch1zUwBLEAQYAyABEgLDIPD_BwE

 

[ccannx]

Last autocross the rear tires temps were even all the way across with no camber added my fronts were a different story, I thought about spacers on the front bushing or useing cam bolts but want to get a go pro on the rear suspension and see what its doing first. I'm worried it's going to positive camber and toe out under compression.

It would be nice to have suspension data like WinGeo to know exactly what the camber and toe curves are in the rear. The front appears to be spot on.

 

[Ross]

you can get excentric bolts for the top hole of the steering knuckle for some adjustment.
like these https://www.autoanything.com/suspen...MInsmusIH-5QIV0hZ9Ch1zUwBLEAQYAyABEgLDIPD_BwE

After using those excentric bolts, I wouldn't recommend them. They work, I'm using them, but there is a lot of slop.
I think the Chevy way is better, as their bolts can be torqued higher, and hold better.
Their method may require a round file to increase the bolt holes. There is some adjustment available in the holes, so you might not need to file them.

 

[Ross]

On the eccentric bolts. you only need one bolt per side of the car. I have seen guys replace all of the bolts with these and it does give a sloppy feel.

The sloppy feel is because the cam bolt has a reduced diameter, in order to allow adjustment. Each cam bolt adds about 1 degree of camber adjustment, and if you want 2 degrees of adjustment, you would need both bolts replaced.
Even the stock bolts have a bit of slop, so that you can adjust them. If you file the holes, you get more slop (adjustment).
Once you torque the bolts down, they (hopefully) stay in position, and keep your camber setting.

 

[askiles]

On camber bolts, was the only way to get it correct, and have had no issues with them.

 

[JERMzSS]

It might be ghetto but I slotted the upper holes on mine. I run -2.5 degrees and can go up to -3.5. Seems to be working pretty good for me.

 

[Ross]

It might be ghetto but I slotted the upper holes on mine. I run -2.5 degrees and can go up to -3.5. Seems to be working pretty good for me.

That is the Chevy recommended way, that I recommend over the cam bolt method. Not ghetto at all!

 

[askiles]

2.5-3.5 degrees seems like a lot for rear tires. Maybe I’m just conservative?!? Lmao.

 

[KLMOTORSPORTS]

Thanks all for the reply’s...good info!

 

[JERMzSS]

2.5-3.5 degrees seems like a lot for rear tires. Maybe I’m just conservative?!? Lmao.

lol mine is mostly autocrossed. It makes and occasional trip but mostly racing.

 

[ccannx]

lol mine is mostly autocrossed. It makes and occasional trip but mostly racing.

How are you doing raw times locally ? What ride heights are you running ? First auto-x I did I had the ride height set too low and the guys said I was getting positive camber in the rear. My goblin is really twitchy in the rear and is difficult to keep from sliding.

I may need to slot my rears and try more camber, wish it was not winter already.

 

[JERMzSS]

Locally I'm the fastest but I'm running against full bodied cars. 61.25 was my fastest time this year. I'd say 69 to 71 was a good average time with a low 66 was the fastest by a modified Miata. They made a special class for me lol

You have rear coilovers? I had that issue when I had factory struts in the rear. I'm in Houston now and will be back home next week. I'll get you some specs then. I love these pics cause they show my set up is now working lol.

Before rear coilovers and after.