Paralyzed by indecision and the quest for perfection

[bradr]

I seem to always drag out projects because I want to overthink them and make sure it is pre-planned and perfect the first time. Even if/when I complete my Goblin build, I have a long wait afterward to try and get it to be street legal. At this point I am trying to convince myself to just get something done, even if it is not "perfect" in my mind.

My primary holdup is making any required modifications to the frame before powder coating. But, unless I fully assemble the car, I won't know all the modifications I may want to make. I have dragged this out so long, I could have built the car and torn it down multiple times over.

Some things I would like to do that require modifying the frame:

• Move steering bracket to be centered with seat (In progress)
• Different shifter & cable arrangement to eliminate the reversing linkage
• Extra tabs for securing floor?
• Install threadserts to secure floor
• Install threadserts to secure firewalls
• Install threadserts to secure tunnel cap
• Cut / modify tunnel cap
• Mount for brake booster vacuum regulator

At one point quite some time ago, I made a list of stuff to modify before paint based on reading a ton of build threads. Its been so long, the list is gone and I have forgotten most of them. I guess what I am asking is, anyone have regrets going straight to paint and not taking the time to make modifications to the frame first? Any thoughts on the list above?

 

[SmsDetroit]

My plan is to go straight to paint. Build it in stock form this year. Get it registered and enjoy it. Then next winter tear it down and do the modifications I want and have it recoated. Just the frame to power coat is $600 for me. It’s worth eating that amounts to enjoy my goblin for a year first.

 

[Ark :D]

These are not flawless cars, and we're not flawless builders. I almost cried the first time I put a visible nick in my powder coat. Well, now there's plenty of them.

Just get it built and enjoy it. You can always build another one and sell the first one.

 

[Towerdog]

I'm in the same boat. I see alot of things I want to change but I want to be able to use it this summer and I have limited time from now till July to work on it. So I have a sample of Steel-it on the way to test it and see if I want to run this summer w a grey or black frame.

 

[r3drckt]

One modification I want to make is to relocate the heat exchanger to the sides, then plate the entire bottom to reduce the front end lift. What holds me back is how it’ll look when complete. I’m worried it won’t look how I want once it’s all welded up.

I plan on assembling the front end, put the motor assembly in so it can sit on its own feet, then mock up the side areas with the body panels on and see if I wanna go forward with it. I saw @Tinkles here do just this and it looks great, but I haven’t seen his with the wheels on to get a final judgement.

I would love for the car to look like a mini Indy car

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Brad, you are not alone in trying to ensure you have EVERYTHING welded and modded on the frame before coating application. Building up your Goblin to make sure you have it all done to your liking and then take it all apart again is the right way to build a Goblin, IMO. Your list is comprehensive and aligns with the mods I am in process of implementing. An additional thing you may want to look into is weld-on zip tie tabs for your wiring. These really clean up the look - no zip ties or cable clamps around the frame tubes. Along with this you may also want to run some wiring inside the frame tubes, so planning for this to get holes drilled.

Weld on tabs for zip tie mount ,brake line 20 pack | eBay

T hese tabs are to weld on anywhere you want to run a wiring harness or anything you would like to tie wrap to the chassis for a nice clean look. They are cut on my laser in house an d are cut out of US A steel.

www.ebay.com

 

[Vwsaabvt]

what about adding a harness bar? or are you going to use the factory seatbelts?

 

[r3drckt]

The goblin has a “harness bar” but others have mentioned that it’s too low for most seat arrangements, specially with sliders. Most add another harness bar a few inches higher

 

[bradr]

Thank you for all the replies so far. I know its never going to be perfect, and honestly, once I am driving it, I am sure most imperfections will no longer bother me.

I was going to use 3d printed clips for the wiring, but love the zip tie tabs idea.

As for seatbelts, I have not decided. I want ease of use (stock belts) but the safety of a 4 point harness. I was considering using Amsafe 4 point passenger harnesses from a GA aircraft. I love the buckles, everyone knows how to operate them, they give some level of 4 point safety, but are also retractable.

 

[bradr]

 

[Fozda]

My build was rushed. Got home from picking up the Frame on Friday, had a few things welded on that weekend, dropped the frame and most of the parts off for powder coat on Monday, picked it all up on Thursday and started assembling it. Aside from waiting on seats and trying to find where I messed up the data wire in the harness it was fully built by Sunday.
I definitely regret not making a lot of changes before powder coat since grinding off powder coat and getting it redone will be such a colossal pain in the arse, HOWEVER, I do believe I would have even more regret if I had taken my time, missed a whole bunch of events, and still probably missed a few things before powder. Some of the changes I want to make now probably wouldn't have revealed themselves without driving the car hard at these events.
Recently I decided I want to use the car for a very specific purpose in a couple years but after figuring out what it would take to make mine work for that I've decided I will probably end up building another one for that purpose and keep this one for just autocross and street driving. I highly doubt building a second one based off what you learned from the first one is something that anyone would really consider though.
I guess my only advice would be to just enjoy it however you can. Some people get more satisfaction out of the build process, others just want to buy a completed one. I don't think there's any wrong way to go about it so just do whatever works for you. There's probably going to be at least a little regret no matter how you go about it.

 

[WYGoblin]

I also rushed to get the car done so I can get driving. The only thing I really wish I would of done was put tabs on for mounting side panels. I had my frame powder coated at DF so didn't want to ruin the coating. If I got the bare frame the closest shop that could coat it was 250 miles away so was kinda impractical for me. I did run across some LiquiPowder from techline coatings I want to try out. Supposed to be able to repair powder coating without an oven. The video feels like it was a 80s/90s school video but here it is lol.

(1) LiquiPowder a different way to apply Powder Coating (Liquid Powder) - YouTube

 

[KSLunsfo]

I struggled with this quite a while myself but finally got all the welding and modifications done that I could at least foresee.

I also rushed to get the car done so I can get driving. The only thing I really wish I would of done was put tabs on for mounting side panels. I had my frame powder coated at DF so didn't want to ruin the coating. If I got the bare frame the closest shop that could coat it was 250 miles away so was kinda impractical for me. I did run across some LiquiPowder from techline coatings I want to try out. Supposed to be able to repair powder coating without an oven. The video feels like it was a 80s/90s school video but here it is lol.

I did design some custom tabs (1/4" thick, M6 tapped holes) that we welded to my frame that you can see in pictures part way down page 4 of my build log. Another, much less invasive method would be some type of clamps like OptimizePrime did. That method would at least prevent dealing with powder coat reworking.

 

[ctuinstra]

I had about an hour after I got home with the frame to get it to the powder coater before they closed. So needless to say, I had to rush. However, I cheated a bit and being that this was the second build, I already knew what I wanted to do to the frame. I quickly hurried and welded on tabs, a bracket for the license plate, fuse box mount, etc. In my hurriedness, I welded the tabs for the license plate off an inch.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

View attachment 20194

Brad, GA 4 point belts are a good compromise between the factory belts and an automotive 4-5 point belt. I wished I would have thought of this before running out to buy the 4 point, the GA belts are much easier to use and more comfortable.

 

[bradr]

Thank you again for all the responses thus far! I guess I need to find the compromise between getting it done and being happy with the end result.

Brad, GA 4 point belts are a good compromise between the factory belts and an automotive 4-5 point belt. I wished I would have thought of this before running out to buy the 4 point, the GA belts are much easier to use and more comfortable.

The question is, will they pass the NYS inspection, and are they worth the 3x cost premium.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Good question. I'd have to believe that anyone inspecting would immediately recognize the buckle system as being an aircraft style and may not say anything. If there is comment stating they are flight worthy and FAA certified would be a good talking point.

 

[ctuinstra]

Thank you again for all the responses thus far! I guess I need to find the compromise between getting it done and being happy with the end result.



The question is, will they pass the NYS inspection, and are they worth the 3x cost premium.

If your inspection includes the belts, I highly doubt they will pass only because they have not been tested to automotive standards

 

[Rttoys]

I almost cried the first time I put a visible nick in my powder coat. Well, now there's plenty of them.

No doubt there. During the build and up to about a month after getting it on the road, it’s “don’t touch!!!!! You have to be wrapped in bubble wrap to get in and don’t even think about breathing on it” Now? ”hand me that hammer so we can make that new part fit”

 

[Ross]

It will never be perfect. Accept that, and move on. You can always make it better, later, but for now, it will do.

If you actually painted the frame, you don't really need to worry about changes to your car. Repainting is easy compared to powder coating.
If you want it powder coated, buy some extra powder so you can add parts and still color match them.
Can you buy powder coat colors that match a nail polish color? Yes, I want Chanel Cobalt Blue powder coat, please. Make it easy for touch ups.

Rivnuts can be drilled and riveted on after powder coating. It costs more to have someone plug all those rivnuts if you do it before powder coating. Maybe leave the tunnel cap bare metal until after mounting the shifter linkage, and cutting the tunnel cap. When you are happy with the way it is shifting, then get it powder coated. Don't worry about a little surface rust, keep it dry. Or use WD40, and have to clean it off later... the DF frame comes with protective oil that they have to clean anyways.

I was worried that I wouldn't finish a project like this. It seemed so big before I started. So I decided early to give priority to getting it driving and street legal. That was a a big enough goal. Don't make it perfect, just get it street legal.
No rebuilt engine. Not even a painted engine. No new hubs and axles. No body panels. Just 4 wheels, 2 seats & 1 engine. I can do that, right?

Then modify it from there.
Drove it all summer and fall. Pulled the engine in winter. Painted the engine, did a bunch of engine maintenance.
I'm not sure it will ever be finished. That is okay. I will make it better, later.