Search results

Thanks for all the replies. I haven't had time to work on the goblin. For now, I'm just jumping the relay to start it since I'm just letting it run every once and a while. I'll have some time off during the upcoming holidays and will try some of the suggestions here. I did finally get it...

Checked the fuses and didn't see any issues there. Didn't have time to check today, but will try and test each side of the relay again and see what I get.

Yeah, I didn't see any new codes. I have always had a few evap codes. I'm thinking it may be the ignition fuse, since that also gives 12+ trigger via the clutch switch.

So I just tried to run a new ground to 85 since I couldn't get a ground reading on either side of the 85/86 pins. Even with a new ground, it wouldn't start. Hot wiring the relay load side still works to start the car. The only thing I can think of at this point is that the ground trigger pins on...

Yeah I did check some other posts and saw something similar already said. I will test the ground again but on the other side of the diagonal since I already did one. http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/wont-crank-with-key-turn.2937/post-58640 Also going to try running a new ground to...

It's a relatively new AGM battery and was sits on a charger. I'm going to try running a new ground under the relay and see if that resolves it

I'm having an issue with getting the goblin to crank. Fuel pump primes, throttle body moves with throttle - dash and everything comes on as normally with key on. When the key is moved to start, the dash/lights flicker and doesn't turn over. Leaving the key in and jumping the crank relay starts...

what model turbosmart actuator are you using?

What exactly does main hoop mean? Where is the best spot for the angle finder?

Good to know which one we need. Just an update on the standalone: I reached out to RPM but haven't gotten a response. I talked with Ace Motorsports and they said they used a Link G4 Fury with the LSJ in a Ariel Atom. They used most of the stock sensors, most noticeably the stock cam and crank...

This is really interesting and I will give them a call. If this is a real standalone that is a decent price, hopefully it’s not just a custom p12.

Sweet, I didn’t search for this specifically but should of. I mostly tried to find threads of others running aftermarket ecu’s but haven’t found much. I think it should be fairly straightforward to remove the potentiometer and wire it up as an input to be used against rpm/speed.

Has anyone used a Saturn Vue / Chevy Equinox power steering in their goblin? The reason I am asking is I would like to eventually run an aftermarket standalone ecu on the car and remove the stock ecu/bcm. The only thing I would like to keep is power steering. It looks like they are identical but...

Yeah I had to order some different probes because I didn't want to damage the fuse slot with the one I have. I'll try it out.

The ECM/Trans fuse looked fine but was replaced just to be sure. I have not tried to probe c5,b3 but c1,e6 to the boost solenoid is not getting 12v with ignition on.

Finally got another chance to work on the goblin. Unfortunately, the pink wire at the solenoid is not getting 12v with ignition on.... The pink wire from the fuse block(C1, E6) to the solenoid looks good. The IGN1 fuse is also in a good state. The p0230 code was solved by replacing the relay.

The fuse looks good and I have tried to trace back the entire circuit and have not found the issue yet. Is the g101 ground the ground coming from the white fuse block connector?

Your actually correct, it looks like it goes to one of the ECM fuses. The gray wire goes to the ecu and the tan wire controls the gauge. Going to look at that fuse now. The red wire for the gauge can actually come from the front bcm.

I also did go back and clean most of these connections up. They looked pretty rough. For the solenoid, it looks like it just has two wires: a red and grey with the red going to the boost gauge and the grey going to the ECM. Going to check those and see what I find. I know I have the tan wire...

So I went through all the wires and checking everything, here is what I found: 1. The PURPLE injector and maf harness got swapped - which was the cause of the injector/maf codes... 2. The starter to fuse block power wire was not connected properly somehow, when I replaced the starter it did not...