Search results

Okay I will try all that. A few questions though. I did try testing the voltage going to the ECM. At least I think. I tried measuring the battery voltage at pin 56, and the ignition pins at 3,5, and 6. I got nothing. My technique must be wrong or something since the car does come alive a bit...

Battery voltage is 12.25. When measuring, I touch to engine block directly or that frame stud where all those grounds are relocated to. I've confirmed that the relay has a good ground. I actually ran a new ground because I wasn't getting one initially. I also replaced the relay with one I got...

Ahhhh I see what you mean. The engine ran perfectly fine on purchase for 3 months back in July 2022. Coolant was getting in the oil so it still ran fine but the replacement was necessary regardless. Projects been on hold for all this time. Attached is the full scan I just did with my bluedriver...

I'm referring to the purple wire with a white stripe that runs to the fuse box from the ECU. Not the solid purple wire that runs to the solenoid from the fuse box. I had codes but none that had to do with the starting system if I remember correctly. I went over it with my dad and he also thought...

I have a DF goblin kit car that I bought 3rd hand and uses a 5-speed 2008 Chevy Cobalt SS TC as it's donor. I had to engine swap with a new third gen due to porous block from my LNF. Now the car doesn't crank using the key. Will crank when jumping the starter relay. After cleaning a bunch of...

I sent a similar message to ZZP and they said I NEED that plate in and it would affect the rest of the set-up. Good to know.

Thanks for the reply. I hadn't considered the possible interference the input shaft might cause being deeper in the engine. It bolted together fine, no bottoming out. I think it's safer to put the spacer in. The subrame is still separate from the body so it would be as simple as pulling the...

My gut tells me this is a bad idea but I thought I should ask anyway. Today I bolted up the f35 manual transmission and new lDK engine together. Well, in my haste, I forgot to install the spacer. This got me thinking though, I would have had a 300 thousandths air gap which isn't supposed to blow...

Very good, thank you. I heard someone recommend ATF for it's detergent properties. This is most certainly better.

As a side note. I've read a lot of ways of cleaning out the "forbidden milkshake" in my crankcase once the repairs are complete. What do you guys recommend?

You do have a point. The engine is at that point so maybe a refresh on several stock components isn't a bad idea.

Thankfully, there is a little tool you can buy to hold the sprocket in place I believe. Not required to remove the timing cover. If the pump looks fine when I replace it then no big deal. One less thing to worry about. I move ahead on the head gasket then most likely.

To possibly save me a lot of headache, I think I will take a close look at the water pump. I read on a cobalt forum that someone was having similar issues with thier 06 2.2 LT and that ended up being the problem. A water pump replacement is a lot faster than a headgasket replacement.

I wanted to build one originally but it just made more sense all said and done to buy one that was 15 min away from me.

I bought Ken Ramey's (Kenny123) goblin #128

Its unfortunate but I believe the guy I bought the car from abused it pretty bad. I trust what the builder ken did but I bet some damage was done in the months between him selling it and me buying it.

Thanks for the feedback. The level on the dipstick is higher for sure. It is close to the end of that third section in the dipstick. I guess I'll wait for the test kit tomorrow to see if pressure doesn't hold/maybe pressurize the crankcase. I've done a head gasket/cylinder head job on my daily...

I have a 2010 TC. After not driving it for 5 days I come back to the reservoir was almost completely empty. Filled it up and went for a drive. Stopped after 10 minutes of driving to see it almost empty again. Went right home, filled again, squeezed main coolant hoses, let it idle and no bubbles...

Yeah, I guess I just need to go get an extra nut down at the hardware store. So strange that it's just gone. Thanks for the info Rttoys.

Yeah, the pictures I've seen of a correct assembly includes a nut after that washer at the bottom of the picture. It's wack. I guess the previous owner took it off or maybe even broke it lol. I'm the third owner so who knows. Thank you for the confirmation. It definitely seems wrong. I don't...