V1 Automatic Shifter Options

[Andrew]

Does anyone on here run an auto with an Interceptor or similar and have switched out the stock shift lever for one that allows autostick/tiptronic type interaction? I have been running buttons beside the shifter but it's a pain. Looking for options if anyone else has run this setup.

 

[Rauq]

@MX184 is working on paddle shifters. Not sure where he's at in the project.

 

[Andrew]

What I'm hoping for is an autostick type setup so I can have a toggle through the gears and still have the functionality of auto for new drivers. Currently it's got to be shifted to low, switched to manual and then the two buttons function correctly. I just feel that it could be less clunky.

 

[Dale E]

The 2011 and more MY have a plus/minus switch on the shifter knob operated with your thumb. Works well. The Dodge/Chrysler caravan and T&C have theirs up on the dash R/N/D then side to side plus/minus. Honda, Toyota mini vans I believe are similar to the Dodge/Chryslers. There are many out thee in the pick and pulls. Get a chance go check them out>>

 

[Andrew]

That's good to know. I didn't think about looking at newer Cobalts but that would make sense because it probably mounts the same way and has the same throw lengths for each gear on the cable. Thanks!

 

[Waterdriver]

My Buick Verano has the auto/manual stick shifter. The Verano is the same platform as the Chevy Cruze which is related to the Cobalt. Delta vs Delta II platform. Everthing "looks" pretty similar to a Cobalt underneath there when doing oil changes. Maybe a future Goblin donor?

In the Verano for Drive, pull the release button and pull straight back. To engage manual mode, pull the shift lever to the left, push forward to upshift, pull back to down shift.
Push shifter back to the right to engage full auto.

It may be possible to graft this into a Goblin. Shifter housing with mechanisms might bolt right to the Goblin.

The trans computer and connections would take some research though.

Just a thought to ponder.

 

[Andrew]

Thanks! Headed down this road. Everything is manually actuated with switches currently so if the shifter has discrete inputs rather than a CAN connection I can split each one out to the Interceptor and it should work seamlessly. As far as the TCU goes it should be fairly straight forward.

 

[MX184]

@MX184 is working on paddle shifters. Not sure where he's at in the project.

They work! The paddles which are just glorified contact switches are from seems legit garage and I've wired them into a ManuMatic trans controller. Is it the most responsive shifting setup in the world? No, but now at least I can hold the car in whatever gear I want on the autocross course. So I consider that a win, in back to back runs recently I was .8 quicker by manually shifting the car verses letting the computer control it.

 

[Andrew]

On a 90 second run I can probably take 2-3 seconds off by forcing gear changes manually. I just want a simpler interface. Got pics?

 

[MX184]

On a 90 second run I can probably take 2-3 seconds off by forcing gear changes manually. I just want a simpler interface. Got pics?

Not really any good ones. I tucked the controller box under foot cover where the fuse panel is and wired up everything. I put the paddles on a deutsch connector so I can still unplug and take the wheel off to get out. The directions with the controller were confusing at first but a couple of phone calls to the company they got me squared away.

 

[Andrew]

So no clockspring? That makes sense to do it that way as long as you don't bind up on rotation! Good thinking.

 

[MX184]

So no clockspring? That makes sense to do it that way as long as you don't bind up on rotation! Good thinking.

Just one 360 around with lots of slack. I may change it to coiled wire down the road and scratch the connector.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Just one 360 around with lots of slack. I may change it to coiled wire down the road and scratch the connector.

Prowire has a coiled 4-wire cord for much cheaper than you find on car sites.