Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Woah, peeking out under the wing?!? How cool is that! 
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V1 Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
I've never riveted before in my life. I decided to try my hand at it. I installed the gurney flap / midsection stiffener. 3/16 high strength aluminum flush mount blind rivets (not cherry max). This added a nice amount of stiffness to the spoiler midsection and they look really sharp.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Today I moved over to the exhaust. I have basically been jumping between sub-projects and working them up to the point where I've sourced all parts and resolved the design portion. Once all my planned projects are all squared away I will go back and finish everything. The exhaust is one of the last remaining projects.
I really wanted to run a solenoid operated exhaust cutout. I ordered one, but the cutout pipe is not at a suitable angle. I decided I will just cut into the Goblin factory pipe and weld the Y pipe for the cutout into the down tube right after the factory cast manifold. I 3D printed a 55 degree angle jig and bought some steel exhaust tubing to test my cutting jigs, which worked well, as well as gave me some time to get my welder dialed in. After a little brainstorming, I redesigned a 3D printed clampable mockup jig with adjustable length and the collector in order to fully mockup the exhaust cutout and check fit. With this new 45 degree angle jig, I can clamp it in place and ensure everything fits perfectly before marking the cut.
The exhaust cutout will be able to be opened and closed from a button on the steering wheel. I want to see if I can find a nice quiet muffler that will fit in place of the DF supplied one.
I really wanted to run a solenoid operated exhaust cutout. I ordered one, but the cutout pipe is not at a suitable angle. I decided I will just cut into the Goblin factory pipe and weld the Y pipe for the cutout into the down tube right after the factory cast manifold. I 3D printed a 55 degree angle jig and bought some steel exhaust tubing to test my cutting jigs, which worked well, as well as gave me some time to get my welder dialed in. After a little brainstorming, I redesigned a 3D printed clampable mockup jig with adjustable length and the collector in order to fully mockup the exhaust cutout and check fit. With this new 45 degree angle jig, I can clamp it in place and ensure everything fits perfectly before marking the cut.
The exhaust cutout will be able to be opened and closed from a button on the steering wheel. I want to see if I can find a nice quiet muffler that will fit in place of the DF supplied one.
Attachments
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
I spent about 3 hours on the Summit website last weekend trying to pick the right parts for the new exhaust system. All my exhaust parts came in. I've never done exhaust work in my life so I thought this would be a fun project. I decided on a 3" to 2 1/2" reducer pipe into a Dynomax turbo as 95Blitz recommended for a more silent option. Spent last night dialing both of my MIG welders in to get some decent welds on the exhaust. I cut the downpipe, ground the old support welds and got the old DF exhaust free. I cut the Y junction from my 3D printed template and got everything clamped and tacked for the cutoff. Got a loose fit on everything else. It all fits perfectly. I will get the rest of the exhaust tacked up tomorrow and fabricate some support mounts for the muffler. I like how the exhaust cutout is totally hidden out of view under the muffler, which was exactly what I was going for. I'm super stoked because I had so much fun with this and it all went together so nicely.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Exhaust is fully welded up. Today I made a muffler support bracket that mounts off of the upper flange of the exhaust bracket and bolts to each side of the muffler supports, using some flat steel and some 1" hot roll angle I had laying around. Its pretty solid now. The washer stacks on the brackets will be replaced with rubber bushings. I still need to paint the pipes.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Havent posted in a while but I've been busy.
Front wing is finalized and now has proper support. I redesigned a modified turnbuckle for the front wing support rods I bought. Their engineer said my design wont work but he's wrong. I designed a bracket that goes between the upper shock mount bolt and headlght bolt. It holds a threaded rod that holds the turnbuckle. I still need to drill the wing and rivet everything. The front wing will be solid and fully adjustable.
Headlights were relocated and now bolt to the bracket I designed. I designed some 3D printed magnetic covers to improve theappearance.
Today I am working on the grille. I am working through a few iterations of trim rings by CAD designing and 3D printing, until I get it to fit just right.
Once I get the trim ring perfect, I will design an actual grille. I want to utilize the design to maximize airflow to the radiator.
I also did some design work on a ram air intake for the air to water radiator.
Front wing is finalized and now has proper support. I redesigned a modified turnbuckle for the front wing support rods I bought. Their engineer said my design wont work but he's wrong. I designed a bracket that goes between the upper shock mount bolt and headlght bolt. It holds a threaded rod that holds the turnbuckle. I still need to drill the wing and rivet everything. The front wing will be solid and fully adjustable.
Headlights were relocated and now bolt to the bracket I designed. I designed some 3D printed magnetic covers to improve theappearance.
Today I am working on the grille. I am working through a few iterations of trim rings by CAD designing and 3D printing, until I get it to fit just right.
Once I get the trim ring perfect, I will design an actual grille. I want to utilize the design to maximize airflow to the radiator.
I also did some design work on a ram air intake for the air to water radiator.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Still working the CAD for the front grille, but settled on this design for now. I removed the lip trim ring because I think it looks much cleaner without it. I ultimately ended up having to laser scan the lip of the cowling because none of the CAD angles were quite right in my original 3D model. All of the shapes and angles all had to be re-drawn from the scan and then lofted together. It takes a fair amount of tweaking the scale of fit ring and re-printing it to get the size perfect with no gaps. I am hopefully on my last sizing iteration of the fit ring, then I will print the full assembly in black ASA. With the base trim ring fitted and complete I can design any style grille I want from it in the future.
Attachments
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Ran a sample scale print in PLA. it fits perfectly.
Ran a section sample print in ASA. It fits perfectly and print quality is great.
Printing final grille now. Will be a 12 hour print in ASA.
Hopefully when I wake up tomorrow I will have a nice new grille waiting on my buildplate.
Ran a section sample print in ASA. It fits perfectly and print quality is great.
Printing final grille now. Will be a 12 hour print in ASA.
Hopefully when I wake up tomorrow I will have a nice new grille waiting on my buildplate.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Well, been a longer break from the build than planned, but had to leave town for a course for work, came home and got sick for 2 weeks. I planned to retire next year, but work offered me a big promotion and a pay raise running the safety program, so I guess I will stick around another 4 years. In the meantime doing that job now and my old job too and trying to train a few other guys to take over my old job while battling newly diagnosed sleep apnea.
In the meantime I have been reorganizing the garage. Got AC installed finally so I can now work during the summer. Got my other project car up and going again and will either sell it or start driving it to work. Waiting until I have an actual 2 day weekend so I can print out my prototype side ram air intake scoop.
In the meantime I have been reorganizing the garage. Got AC installed finally so I can now work during the summer. Got my other project car up and going again and will either sell it or start driving it to work. Waiting until I have an actual 2 day weekend so I can print out my prototype side ram air intake scoop.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Took the day off yesterday to complete the ram air cooling duct prototype. 29 hour print. Part way in, I noticed that the slicer failed to generate proper supports. Looking over the model, I estimated tthat the base geometry would still print just fine, which it did. Pulled off the finished print and checked fit... I was nervous about fit because my laser scan data was purely reference point-based and I had all the frame tube geometry mostly drawn in by software. The fit ended up being perfect...
I will print the mounts next, install it, and scrutinize the duct to determine if the final print will require any additional processing or minor cosmetic upgrades.
I will print the mounts next, install it, and scrutinize the duct to determine if the final print will require any additional processing or minor cosmetic upgrades.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Took a short break to redo the exhaust on my sandrail. Now back to work on the Goblin. I finally got the exhaust bypass actuator button from Granitelli. Not to enthused about the quality, but CAD and a 3D printer can make parts stronger. I made a strain relief for the box/board, and integrated it into my dash harness. I also designed & printed a shroud for the steering wheel and integrated strain relief into the coil cable. Finished the dash harness yesterday by adding star washers at all the terminal blocks and securing the harnesses.
I got all of the rivet nuts drilled and installed to secure the firewall, which is fully sound deadened and lined with neoprene gasket around the mounting surface perimeter. This prevents vibration resonance from the subwoofer.
I welded the rear harness bars in behind the seats. This presented a new problem. The speakers I had mounted into the engine covers wont clear now. I decided to just backload them instead, so I CAD designed up some trim rings and a low profile front grille. The fit is great now. I will sand down the fiberglass a bit and add some rigid sealant for an airtight fit of the speakers. I also need to cut the engine covers down to make them easier to install and remove. I think I will incorporate some sort of 3D printed brackets as well because the pre-drilled holes do not line up at all and create a rubbing contact area with the frame which would quickly wear away the vinyl wrap.
I am going to send my prototype side air intake scoop out to another user with a running vehicle so he can do a yarn airflow test and assess the effectiveness of the scoop. I worked with AI a bit on the design and AI is slightly skeptical on the airflow as well as I am. As long as it is pulling a fair amount of air at speed on the outer portion it should help.
I think I will start working on the remaining wiring for the fuel pump and the engine compartment. It will be nice to do a final full power on check to ensure everything electrical is working. I am about to the point of being ready to strip the frame back down so I can finish up all of my welds and get this off to powder coat.
I got all of the rivet nuts drilled and installed to secure the firewall, which is fully sound deadened and lined with neoprene gasket around the mounting surface perimeter. This prevents vibration resonance from the subwoofer.
I welded the rear harness bars in behind the seats. This presented a new problem. The speakers I had mounted into the engine covers wont clear now. I decided to just backload them instead, so I CAD designed up some trim rings and a low profile front grille. The fit is great now. I will sand down the fiberglass a bit and add some rigid sealant for an airtight fit of the speakers. I also need to cut the engine covers down to make them easier to install and remove. I think I will incorporate some sort of 3D printed brackets as well because the pre-drilled holes do not line up at all and create a rubbing contact area with the frame which would quickly wear away the vinyl wrap.
I am going to send my prototype side air intake scoop out to another user with a running vehicle so he can do a yarn airflow test and assess the effectiveness of the scoop. I worked with AI a bit on the design and AI is slightly skeptical on the airflow as well as I am. As long as it is pulling a fair amount of air at speed on the outer portion it should help.
I think I will start working on the remaining wiring for the fuel pump and the engine compartment. It will be nice to do a final full power on check to ensure everything electrical is working. I am about to the point of being ready to strip the frame back down so I can finish up all of my welds and get this off to powder coat.
Attachments
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The dash panel is a real work of electrical packaging, looks better than some auto manufacturers can achieve. 
Brian74
Goblin Guru
- Brian74 Goblin Guru
Well I was gonna stop working today but I was literally so fed up with the length of the engine covers and trying to get them on and off the car during fit testing the speakers... I ended up trimming them back. Wow, much better. I still may just cut them flush, or actually just short of the rear x-member, grind off the df mount tabs, and devise something new (possibly dzus?). None of the DF holes line up anyways. This also brings the question of how to do the front mounting. I may dzus those too. AI recommended a pin/grommet plug style like most cars have on the underhood panels. That would look sharp if I could pull it off.
I ended up drawing up a quick flush mount in CAD for a male Deutsch DT connector and printing it. Saved myself $22 and mine is nicer. This will facilitate easy disconnect of the rear speakers when removing the engine cover.
I ended up drawing up a quick flush mount in CAD for a male Deutsch DT connector and printing it. Saved myself $22 and mine is nicer. This will facilitate easy disconnect of the rear speakers when removing the engine cover.
