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V1 Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61

Desert Sasqwatch
A steel plate gets riveted to the bottom edge of the hood below the radiator opening that has DZUS fasteners that engage with the plates on the lower front edge of the radiator mounting support. There is some other discussions in the forum on this. I will be looking at doing something else myself, not sure what yet i'm still kicking ideas around, since I tried the DZUS fasteners and stripped the slotted heads out first thing. The rear of the hood has a pair of brackets with holes that align with brackets on the cowl frame above the dash area that get pinned or bolted in place. I am also looking at doing something different there as well.
 
Indy Lonnie
How exactly does the front of our hoods stay put, anyway? I've been meaning to ask about this.
There are two DZUS (quarter turn fasteners) up front under the radiator. There should be a plate with the fasteners already installed that will pop-rivet to the fiberglass hood. It will match up to the wire things on the front radiator support. They are a pain, but effective. Buy a real DZUS driver and it makes it easier. The two front bolts near the instrument panel, I have to pull on the hood and cuss a little to get the bolts to start. I sealed up the area around the instrument panel with pipe insulation. I now have to cuss even more...
 
B
Swap the DZUS fasteners to hex heads, and save yourself a major headache. The flat head ones are a royal pain.

 
JBINTX
I am close to that part Ark:D. Here is the hardware piece that locks it down - shown on the bottom of the hood, and then where it engages under the front of the frame.

Brian74: Maybe reuse some of the seat / hood / trunk release hardware? I saved mine thinking there may be something useful for it.

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Karter2026
I used these push button fasteners on the lower front. They work great I ended up not using the aluminum cup that came with them. I used a bigger set on the rear of the hood by the windshield also.

push button release
 
Brian74
I ordered the cowling latches that DS recommended. I also ordered an RFID ignition system. I will use it to control the courtesy lighting as well. A bit of tricky relay wiring but shouldn’t be too bad. I got some of the reinforcement panels cut today and did a layout for the relays and terminals going on the backside. It takes some creative jigging to keep everything straight.

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Brian74
I got the steering shaft hole cut out. What a challege; but it came out dead center. Measure 9,000 times, cut once.

Now I’m on a short pause again until I can order my MXG Strada. Theie website provides measurments so I still may go ahead and fabricate mounting points.

Next debate is coatings for this dash... Flat black powdercoat? Or should I do a vinyl wrap in black chrome (seeing as I have a HUGE supply of it left over from another project)?

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Brian74
PS... Drip irrigation tubing, carefully slit down the center makes for a great, affordable edge finish on 16-18 gauge steel panels.
 
Ross
This is cool. Wish I would have known when I was at Kevin's in Tuscan... would have been great to see your custom fabrication.
 
Brian74
My AIM Strada has arrived.

So this just got fun. I had some questions on the Strada and spoke to one of their tech people but then found out that apparently the Cobalts (although listed on their website’s compatibility list) are not compatible under the newer race studio 3 CAN protocal. It sounds like they are going to try & fix this ASAP and get it added in by their software team in Italy.

Hopefully this can be worked out soon enough as he said the protocal is there; it just needs to be added into the newer software. The tech rep was super cool and knowledgeable, and this is a very stout product.

EDIT: AIM already emailed me back this morning (the next day) and said the Chevy Cobalt specific protocol has been added to the newest version of their race studio software, so GTG altogether.

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