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Front splitter installation and reviews

Stretch2126
Bumping this thread to see if anyone interested in a splitter is watching. I emailed talon and they do them in batches of 5 or more. Signed up to be notified when they’re open. Seems like the consensus is these make higher speeds nice.
 
E
Bumping this thread to see if anyone interested in a splitter is watching. I emailed talon and they do them in batches of 5 or more. Signed up to be notified when they’re open. Seems like the consensus is these make higher speeds nice.
I'm interested. what is the cost again? I was dabbling with designing my own and sending it to sendcutsend to be cut out.
 
LLBenJ
Splitter install complete. I ended up purchasing a simple L shaped mend bracket from the local D&B. Drilled the top hole out to accept the 1/2" A arm bolt. Picked up a set of splitter struts off Amazon for the forward edge of the splitter then used 1.5" insulated stainless clamps, stainless hardware and lock nuts, to mount it up. Very stable and passes the "stand on me" test. The insulated clamps also serve as a small standoff to prevent any rattling/vibration with the body. I ended up placing some self adhesive 1/4" rubber furniture anti-skid pads on the bottom of the car to further isolate any potential of vibration or noise. The drive today was great!

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Robinjo
I did the same thing @LLBenJ except went to the lower control arm as the DF tow kit utilizes the one you did. I also got longer eye bolts to allow me to bolt through the splitter further up.
 
E
Really like the insulated stainless clamp idea. Thanks for posting. Very clean installation @LLBenJ


Splitter install complete. I ended up purchasing a simple L shaped mend bracket from the local D&B. Drilled the top hole out to accept the 1/2" A arm bolt. Picked up a set of splitter struts off Amazon for the forward edge of the splitter then used 1.5" insulated stainless clamps, stainless hardware and lock nuts, to mount it up. Very stable and passes the "stand on me" test. The insulated clamps also serve as a small standoff to prevent any rattling/vibration with the body. I ended up placing some self adhesive 1/4" rubber furniture anti-skid pads on the bottom of the car to further isolate any potential of vibration or noise. The drive today was great!

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E
Can you provide a link to the splitter rods you purchased. Everything I see is 11-12” and I think I need 14-15”. Yours look pretty long.

Got my splitter finished up today.
Using supports really firms it up! Before adding them it was possible to push down on it and see it flex.

I had custom pins made that utilize the tow bar mount. Using the retaining pins on the top will allow them to be removed easily when I tow the car. (Which isn’t often)
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Additional installation information - for anyone interested:
I wanted my splitter flush to the bottom of the lower frame rails and the radiator support. As many have seen the radiator support frame mounts and bolts do not allow for this to happen.
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So, I used a router to remove about 3/16 depth out of the aluminum to let the radiator support frame tabs recess into the splitter and holes to allow the bolt heads to protrude thru.
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This allows the splitter to sit perfectly flush with the chassis with no spacers or weird angle from a perfectly flat bottom with the rest of the floor. :cool:
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WA08TC
Need that rear diffuser action. I'd buy that I like the 9 lives one but too pricey for me right now.
 
Indy Lonnie
Has anyone installed this splitter with the front NACA ducts/intercooler setup without the cutout? I was wondering if having no cutout would affect the cooling. I think there is about 1" of spacing between the splitter and intercooler radiator.
 
LLBenJ
It would definitely cut down in efficiency. I don't have two cars of the same set up to provide any accurate data. ZZP, over the course of a lot of remote tuning, was impressed by my lower IATs in my supercharged car with a dual pass plate and NACA ducts (no fan) installed. A lot of WOT pulls on 95F degree days.

A fan install may produce better results, with a no cutout splitter, providing some form of constant air movement. When the splitter is installed you're definitely trapping more heat from the radiator, which will heat soak that intercooler more quickly, in the front of the car. Nice...on those cold mornings...but not ideal for cooling. High rear, or side mount, intercoolers would probably be a better option for cooling if you're sealing off the bottom of the car.
 
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Desert Sasqwatch
Has anyone installed this splitter with the front NACA ducts/intercooler setup without the cutout? I was wondering if having no cutout would affect the cooling. I think there is about 1" of spacing between the splitter and intercooler radiator.
The air from the NACA ducts has to have an 'open' exit for proper airflow through the HE. In the 'normal' DF setup the air comes in from below the nose and gets pulled upward through the HE by the fan to exit out the open sides (between the suspension mounts). With the NACA ducts the air flows* downward from the top of the HE out the bottom of the car. With no opening in the splitter there will be minimal airflow through the HE. Recommend cutting a hole in the splitter plate (if you plan to keep the DF HE exchanger and location) so the NACA ducts will work effectively.

*NACA ducts require a slight vacuum to work properly - at the air exit - to help pull air into the ducts, through the hoses and the HE. The hole in the splitter creates this vacuum with the HE mounted directly above it (even with the 1 inch or so gap).
 
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