V1 LSJ valve cover

[David]

So I figured I ask here snice I couldn't find no info. While going down the catch can rabbit hole (post a thread on a solution, so i think). I run to a 16 page thread on the Cobalt SS forum. Which John Powell came up with a great point regarding the LSJ valve cover.

As anyone ever took apart the underside of the cover? Meaning drill out the plugs which are not rivets hold the sheet metal plate. Which has two biscuits (baffles) under. Reason I bring this up is they are plastic and for the guys that sandblast and powder coat the cover. It can melt the biscuits and now you have destroyed the cover and the functionality.

My previous owner powder coated my valve cover. So I was going to inspect it, but John posted that once drilled you dont have enough meat to drill and tap.

Also was thinking you can have alot of buildup of sludge and worse sand for the blasting.

 

[Murcielago311]

I drilled out the rivets to remove everything for powder. If I had to do it again, I would just paint the cover. The powder has faded and it wasn't worth the effort.

Applicable part of my build thread

 

[David]

I drilled out the rivets to remove everything for powder. If I had to do it again, I would just paint the cover. The powder has faded and it wasn't worth the effort.

Applicable part of my build thread

Yea read it was a pain, at least you where smart enough to pull it apart before powder coating. Im going to have to drill out the rivets and inspect. Pervious owner powder coated the cover and could have melted plastic.

Did you try to drill and tap? Or you just went for self tapping screws

 

[Murcielago311]

I tried self tapping but the valve cover material was too brittle, so I had to drill and tap. Used stainless fasteners, generous red loctite, then a dab of RTV on each screw head to the metal baffle. I have around 8K miles on it now with no issues so far, but might be worth considering just sourcing another cover and painting.

 

[David]

I tried self tapping but the valve cover material was too brittle, so I had to drill and tap. Used stainless fasteners, generous red loctite, then a dab of RTV on each screw head to the metal baffle. I have around 8K miles on it now with no issues so far, but might be worth considering just sourcing another cover and painting.

Was thinking of that but I need to ethier weld some bungs or get a screw on bung. So ethier way I would need to remove that plate. Do you remember what size bolts you used? Wish I had a 3d scanner to design a new valve cover with a removable plate to have access to clean. Skunkworks made a billet one a couple years ago but no longer make them. Would be sweet to find one for sale.