Bleeding brakes (THE EASY WAY)

Discussion in 'Assembly discussion' started by RichRich, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. RichRich

    RichRich Well-Known Member

    Here is the pressure bleeder needed and it includes all of the attachments for GM based brake reservoirs. It is a Motive Power Bleeder #108

    If you are near Mesa Arizona I have one you are welcome to use. Will hopefully save a few from having to buy

    This is a one time bleeding process and will get everything at once, all brakes and clutch if applicable. *Make sure all bleeder valves are on the top of your calipers, if they are not you have your calipers installed on the wrong side and will need to swap them before starting*

    You will need 2 quarts of brake fluid for this, I used 3 but halfway through found an easier way to use less, so 2 should do it. Please let me know if that is not the case..

    Another tip is have enough hose for the calipers to leave all 4 connected, I did not do this but it would make it easier since you will be bleeding each one twice.

    1. Fill your goblin reservoir to the full line, you will not need to add fluid to it again throughout the bleed process as long as the power bleeder does not run out.

    2. Pour the remainder of the 2 quarts inside the motive power bleeder reservoir.

    3. Connect your cap and hose to the power bleeder then to your goblin reservoir. I used the thicker of the 2 seals included in the power bleeder kit.

    4. Pressurize the power bleeder to 10 psi, it states 15 in the instruction but I can tell you from experience, DO NOT do that or the cap may pop off when you aren't looking and you will have a mess to clean. You will need to keep an eye on the pressure and level inside the power bleeder, pressure will need to be brought back to 10 psi a few times through the process.

    *DO NOT bleed the pressure back off once applied, especially before getting your initial fluid pack of all lines, this will force all fluid and air back up to the reservoir because of the now pressurized lines to all 4 wheels*

    5. As soon as it is pressurized start at your rear passenger and crack the bleeder valve, you only need to flow just enough to have a decent stream of fluid, you don't need to remove all of the air until the 2nd time. Then repeat the same thing for the drivers rear, front passenger and last is front driver. If you have a clutch line you can do it after the rear drivers. I recommend cycling the brake pedal a few times throughout the initial fluid pack to ensure that the master cylinder is fluid packed. Do this while your 1st line is priming up (passenger rear)

    6. After you finish partially fluid packing everything repeat the process in the same order, except this time cycle the brake pedal a few times to ensure all the air escapes the master cylinder and also BLEED UNTIL NO MORE AIR IS COMING BACK. Since this is a pressurized bleed you can just cycle the brake pedal while continuing to bleed, it will not mess up the fluid pack

    7. Once you make it around to all lines the 2nd time close everything in, remove the pressure from the power bleeder, cap the reservoir and you should be good to drive. If for some reason it still feels spongy do it one more time.

    My pedal felt very firm after the first time and yours should too. This should take around 15 to 20 minutes, having all 4 or 5 bleeder hoses (one for each caliper+clutch) will make it a bit quicker and slightly less of a mess as well.

    I will read back through this when I get to a computer and may make some adjustments. I will promise you that your brakes will be bled with much less headache if you go this route.

    Good luck!
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2018 at 3:51 PM
    KJP and JSATX like this.
  2. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    This is a complete n00b question, but everything I read here--and the Internet confirms--is that pressure bleeding is the way to go. What is the difference between pushing fluid through the MC and down to the bleed valve as opposed to sucking it through with a vacuum bleeder? I would think that fluid flow is the same. Now, if you were pushing fluid from the caliper to the MC, I would think that would be better as air will float up to the MC.

    I have a vacuum bleeder, and I'd like to get a good setup whether it's vacuum or pressure before I get to this part. Seems like a lot of people have issues with this, and I'd rather not fight it.
  3. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    Thank you for the write up. I fought using the mighty vac for a whole weekend before I got it sorta working. They are still a little spongy but I hope to replace with stainless lines soon so I’m not spending much time on it. Will use your suggestions as soon as I have the new brake lines installed.
  4. RichRich

    RichRich Well-Known Member

    The problem with the vacuum style is any air greatly expands under vac, this applies to all air in the lines. So as you vac the right rear, the air in the line to the left rear is expanding because it is seeing vac as well. So when you release the vac fluid and any air in the system is now trading places or migrating around because of the stored vac in every line. In a pressurized method, the pressure maintains fairly constant and you will not have any migrating between lines (this is the main reason to not be concerned with a perfect fluid pack on the first go-around using the pressure method) , another benefit to pressure is it will shrink any air bubble and it has less tendency to migrate.

    Now when you introduce the front lines into it, it is now sucking air from those lines and introducing it into the lines you previously thought was fluid packed, with all the lines transferring air it causes you to keep chasing your tail. I highly recommend staying away from a vacuum style bleed method. Not saying it is impossible, just much more challenging

    I hope this all makes sense, I tried to keep it simple

    I only had to do mine once and the pedal feels very firm, I honestly don't see the need to make it any more firm with the braided brake lines as I can already lock the wheels up with minimal force
  5. TheNuker

    TheNuker Well-Known Member

    yep like I have said before in my build thread, The motiv pressure bleeder is THE way to go. Took me a whole 30 min for the whole deal and my breaks feel solid as a rock.

  6. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I've used a pressure bleeder twice in my life. The first time went perfectly, and the second time the cap leaked or didn't hold and I had a grade A mess on my hands. That's why I bought a vac bleeder thinking I could achieve the same result just as easy and with less chance of leakage.
  7. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    That was the way I did the Vette and it worked great. I now have a cap for this car and will do it the same (to make my own Motive bleeder).

    My only hang up is the clutch is leaking at the pipe and I have a new pipe with o-ring on order and cannot pressurize the system until the clutch is connected. Good thing I just thought of this, otherwise I would have had brake fluid all over the place since the clutch line is disconnected.
  8. Karter2026

    Karter2026 Well-Known Member

    I have access to a similar pressure bleeder. Fought with a Impala for a whole day that I replaced brake lines all the way around. Got the pressure bleeder and was done in about 20 min. I have never dumped the fluid in pressure bleeder I have always just kept stopping and filling the master cylinder. As Brian1177 asked about there is a reverse pressure bleeder. I just do not feel it is worth the cost.
  9. RichRich

    RichRich Well-Known Member

    With this style pressure bleeder it continuously keeps adding fluid to the goblin reservoir as you are bleeding each caliper. It will stay exactly at full, shouldn't rise or fall in fluid level.

    Not that it will completely ruin the whole bleeding process if you have to keep venting the pressure to keep adding fluid but if you do, you have to keep in mind that any line or caliper that had any air in it is now pressurized and will want to push back towards the reservoir. Just bringing it up, making all the information available to those that need it. Bleeding an empty brake system can be tricky. Have just seen enough people have problems so I wanted everyone to know the easiest method is all.
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2018
  10. Karter2026

    Karter2026 Well-Known Member

    That is how the one I have works also. I just never wanted to take the time to clean the bleeder out after I was done.
  11. RichRich

    RichRich Well-Known Member

    Posted the video finally, keep in mind I am by far not a pro at video editing so hopefully it all makes sense haha.
  12. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    I know you're not supposed to, but do you reuse the fluid that you cycle through?
  13. RichRich

    RichRich Well-Known Member

    I didn't, all new lines may have a fair amount of dust buildup from transporting and that first bit of fluid through will pick up a majority of it. Up to you if you do and I'm sure there would probably never be a problem but another quart of new brake fluid isn't too expensive. The thing I changed halfway through is to not worry about all of the air on the first go around. It will save a bunch of fluid and I'm pretty sure 2 will work

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