Here is the pressure bleeder needed and it includes all of the attachments for GM based brake reservoirs. It is a Motive Power Bleeder #108 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...FMwebp_QL65&keywords=motive+power+bleeder+108 If you are near Mesa Arizona I have one you are welcome to use. Will hopefully save a few from having to buy This is a one time bleeding process and will get everything at once, all brakes and clutch if applicable. *Make sure all bleeder valves are on the top of your calipers, if they are not you have your calipers installed on the wrong side and will need to swap them before starting* You will need 2 quarts of brake fluid for this, I used 3 but halfway through found an easier way to use less, so 2 should do it. Please let me know if that is not the case.. Another tip is have enough hose for the calipers to leave all 4 connected, I did not do this but it would make it easier since you will be bleeding each one twice. 1. Fill your goblin reservoir to the full line, you will not need to add fluid to it again throughout the bleed process as long as the power bleeder does not run out. 2. Pour the remainder of the 2 quarts inside the motive power bleeder reservoir. 3. Connect your cap and hose to the power bleeder then to your goblin reservoir. I used the thicker of the 2 seals included in the power bleeder kit. 4. Pressurize the power bleeder to 10 psi, it states 15 in the instruction but I can tell you from experience, DO NOT do that or the cap may pop off when you aren't looking and you will have a mess to clean. You will need to keep an eye on the pressure and level inside the power bleeder, pressure will need to be brought back to 10 psi a few times through the process. *DO NOT bleed the pressure back off once applied, especially before getting your initial fluid pack of all lines, this will force all fluid and air back up to the reservoir because of the now pressurized lines to all 4 wheels* 5. As soon as it is pressurized start at your rear passenger and crack the bleeder valve, you only need to flow just enough to have a decent stream of fluid, you don't need to remove all of the air until the 2nd time. Then repeat the same thing for the drivers rear, front passenger and last is front driver. If you have a clutch line you can do it after the rear drivers. I recommend cycling the brake pedal a few times throughout the initial fluid pack to ensure that the master cylinder is fluid packed. Do this while your 1st line is priming up (passenger rear) 6. After you finish partially fluid packing everything repeat the process in the same order, except this time cycle the brake pedal a few times to ensure all the air escapes the master cylinder and also BLEED UNTIL NO MORE AIR IS COMING BACK. Since this is a pressurized bleed you can just cycle the brake pedal while continuing to bleed, it will not mess up the fluid pack 7. Once you make it around to all lines the 2nd time close everything in, remove the pressure from the power bleeder, cap the reservoir and you should be good to drive. If for some reason it still feels spongy do it one more time. My pedal felt very firm after the first time and yours should too. This should take around 15 to 20 minutes, having all 4 or 5 bleeder hoses (one for each caliper+clutch) will make it a bit quicker and slightly less of a mess as well. I will read back through this when I get to a computer and may make some adjustments. I will promise you that your brakes will be bled with much less headache if you go this route. Good luck!