Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
The Nittos never seemed to get very warm. I'm hoping the narrower ones will get hot quicker.
Plus, the wide tires in the front do not like the roads around where I live. Large trucks have created grooves in the lanes and these wide tires were always trying to track them. In and out, in and out, in and out. It was annoying. I'm hoping this helps some.
 
comegetjoe

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Chris_WNC said:
The Nittos never seemed to get very warm. I'm hoping the narrower ones will get hot quicker.
Plus, the wide tires in the front do not like the roads around where I live. Large trucks have created grooves in the lanes and these wide tires were always trying to track them. In and out, in and out, in and out. It was annoying. I'm hoping this helps some.
Click to expand...
Ive definitely heard/read about our cars not being heavy enough to get the wider tires warm enough to work properly. Just curious, it helps me make my decisions come spring time when I need to purchase my tires and get on the road.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I got some miles on the new tires this morning. Went to the local cars and Coffee. Temp was low 50s. Not horrible. I remembered gloves this time! lol.

I'm liking the Mustang rims.


And the Tormach was delivered at work this week. My project in my free time is to get it running. Power and air is up next before I can do anything else.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I finally had some time to play with that LDK / 6758 turbo crate engine combo that I’ve had on an engine stand for awhile.

I ended up putting my LAP head and intake onto the LDK long block and reinstalled everything. Turbo side bolted up to the LAP head no problem. It worked! :p Computer is ok with it and I’m getting a pretty smooth idle with the janky temporary intake plumbing that I have on there.

I’m going to plan out my exhaust and start routing wiring for AEM boost and AFR gauges this afternoon. I have an assortment of silicon elbows and adapters coming from Amazon this week. I should have it somewhat presentable looking soon.

In summary, I think I have successfully converted my LAP/Auto Goblin into a turbo LDK(with LAP head)/Auto Goblin.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Yes. Right above the intake runners. The fuel rail holds the injectors and they press fit into the head.

EDIT: I misread and answered incorrectly. See below.
 
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Chris_WNC said:
Yes. Right above the intake runners. The fuel rail holds the injectors and they press fit into the head.
Click to expand...
LNF/LDK DI injectors mount directly below the intake manifold, which is what I believe you meant to say. Im not trying to be a jerk, just wanting the correct info for the DI motors to available to the other readers. :D

20240211_085550.jpg

Fuel injector rail is behind the foam sound proofing on the LNF and the throttle body.

20240211_085556.jpg

The high pressure hardline connects to the fuel rail on the transmission side above the oil filter.

20240211_085609.jpg

The fuel pressure sensor and injectors common connection is above the alternator just below the radiator coolant outlet.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
More progress.
I have Rev 1 of my exhaust done. Going to try this for a while. My welds aren't great but there aren't any leak! I also used a cheater butt joint clamp.



I've cobbled together the intake side too. I have enough extra components to put an A2A intercooler in line later.

I spent this evening mounting a couple of AEM gauges and running wiring and boost tubing. They are in a laser cut ABS mount that I made at work.


I'm going to try the 5v output from the AEM AFR gauge into the AC pressure line hack tomorrow.

I need to straighten this mess up and mount the driver side seat so I can take this thing for a spin. Hopefully the weather cooperates tomorrow.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
mike_sno said:
This thread is pretty good when it comes to the AC hack. http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/wiring-wideband-o2-sensors.3455/post-99461
Click to expand...
Thanks. That link helped. Also, if you read the schematic and see 5v on the pressure switch...that is 5v output. :D It isn't where your AEM analog 5v signal goes. lol.

I also discovered that the 90 degree silicone elbow that I have on the intake side of the turbo collapses when I give it the beans. I need to remedy that.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Chris_WNC said:
Thanks. That link helped. Also, if you read the schematic and see 5v on the pressure switch...that is 5v output. :D It isn't where your AEM analog 5v signal goes. lol.

I also discovered that the 90 degree silicone elbow that I have on the intake side of the turbo collapses when I give it the beans. I need to remedy that.
Click to expand...
The intake side of the turbo... where it goes to the MAF and air filter? Maybe you have a clogged air filter?
 
M

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
Chris_WNC said:
Thanks. That link helped. Also, if you read the schematic and see 5v on the pressure switch...that is 5v output. :D It isn't where your AEM analog 5v signal goes. lol.

I also discovered that the 90 degree silicone elbow that I have on the intake side of the turbo collapses when I give it the beans. I need to remedy that.
Click to expand...
I am sure there is something better, but this one is something used in milling machines from keeping hoses to collapse. https://www.igus.com/product/20788?artNr=PACK-EL-00-036-300-01

Did your wide band survived this little experiment :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top