Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Got it
The jam but is rusted in place. I got the tie rod off. Nevermind the other side is frozen solid both nut and tie rod.
Edit:
After much swearing I'll just buy new ones
Last edited:
Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto
- Thread starter Fenix Nexen
- Start date
The jam but is rusted in place. I got the tie rod off. Nevermind the other side is frozen solid both nut and tie rod.
Edit:
After much swearing I'll just buy new ones
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Doing an inspection on the 2 brake rotors i received for stage 2 and wondering if this pair is 5x114.3 or 5x110. I ordered the 5x114.3 bearing hubs as part of stage 2. The hole pattern lines up pretty well with my 5x110 donor rotor. Fingers crossed that more of stage 2 will be shipped sometime this week
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
The rotor "redrilling" may be scary to see as the HUB has 5 NEW holes drilled in it for changing the stud spacing BUT the Rotor may appear untouched! The difference is rotors are centered on the hub's large center hole and the 5 lug stud holes just need to be en-longated radially(away from the center point). The new lug holes appear oval after this change but still engage the lug studs on the sides of the holes, securely connecting the disc to the hub.
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
good to know
donor was picked up today, was paid 70 dollars for it, garage now has so much more room for activities
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Went and bought new 'front' brakes since the donor ones looked like too much elbow grease was needed. Will be attempting to paint all 4 some point soon. Painted the steering knuckles. Laid down paper for future painting where the donor used to sit. Still waiting on parts to ship out and parts to finish being at powder coating. Lead time seems to be about 2 to 3 weeks for both DF and powder coating. Waiting on stage 3 invoice and the rest of stage 2. Dumping pictures:
Before cleaning and painting:
After:
Donor is gone, might use the hood to practice painting:
Paint area:
New brakes:
Prepped jam nuts:
Installed front shocks, control arms are stuck at powder coating:
Before cleaning and painting:
After:
Donor is gone, might use the hood to practice painting:
Paint area:
New brakes:
Prepped jam nuts:
Installed front shocks, control arms are stuck at powder coating:
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
i didnt but i did save all the stuff needed for it just in case i change my mind down the road
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
I thought this as well. I didn't have to check that box on my order and that was at the end of 2021 for kit #405.
Because "e-brake" really stands for emergency brake and is meant to be a backup for hydraulic brakes in addition holding a car when parked. Many states (if not all) have a requirement for a second braking system independent of the main brake system (so hydraulic hand brakes don't meet this requirement).
Texas technically requires one on new builds, along with a light/signal somewhere that can notify you when it is active. Sometimes the inspector doesn't check for it though, but its a requirement now.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
it kills me that most new emergency brakes are electric instead of cable and lever. I can and have limped home a vehicle that lost hydraulic brakes, using the emergency brake. Can’t do that with a button.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
It always has been. At least since when I was an inspector 20-25 years ago. Most inspectors forget about it though, unless it’s on when it shouldn’t be. Usually then, abs light is also on too. Which ironically isn’t an inspection item.
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Moving on have some torque questions, I know there is a chart laying around somewhere but here is a picture of the few torq specs i need and how would i go about torqueing down B as shown in the picture? and do I use the donor bolts at D? to torque B and C id need a crescent torque wrench I suppose. I know the knuckle goes at D, just have them loosely there to not misplace them. Also should I put anti-seize on the BC coilover threads?
I rarely torque anything outside of something like head bolts. But maybe I’ve been doing this long enough to have a good feel for tight enough.
But you can get a set of crows foot wrenches to use with a standard torque wrench. Probably not as accurate as directly using a torque wrench but good enough for most things.
Yes use anti seize on the coil over threads.
But you can get a set of crows foot wrenches to use with a standard torque wrench. Probably not as accurate as directly using a torque wrench but good enough for most things.
Yes use anti seize on the coil over threads.
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Anti seized the bc coilovers and painted one of the brake calipers, turned out nice, ordered more paint to do the rest, will most likely make the valve cover the same color
I will be asking for help filling out montana registration stuff soon just to get a head start and have everything filled out and ready
I will be asking for help filling out montana registration stuff soon just to get a head start and have everything filled out and ready
Fenix Nexen
Well-Known Member
Here is what I got so far, need to call my RA and ask which odometer disclosure statement I need. Marked out sensitive information. Im going the Montana route and using https://www.49dollarmontanaregisteredagent.com/ The year is left out for when I receive the MCO papers from DF. Let me know if anything is wrong or missing:
MV1:
MV20:
MV24:
MV70A:
MV90A:
MV1:
MV20:
MV24:
MV70A:
MV90A: