jirwin
Goblin Guru
Looking at RockAuto, it seems that the 2.2L LAP uses the same head and headgasket as the 2.4L LE5. That is what was on there from the factory, and what I put back on. But...
The LAP has the same bore (86mm) as the LNF and is from the same year range. Would the LNF gasket make more sense to use on the LAP instead of the LE5 gasket? Especially in a boosted scenario. I only ask because when I looked into ordering a custom thicker gasket from Cometic, they list the LE5 gasket with a 90mm bore, the LNF with an 88mm bore, and the L61 (a true 2.2L) with an 87mm bore. The L61 won't work because the gasket doesn't have the little circles on it for the VVT actuators (if I understand it correctly). Seems like it would make sense to match bore as closely as possible, but I guess combustion chamber size could be different?
LNF Head Gasket
The LAP has the same bore (86mm) as the LNF and is from the same year range. Would the LNF gasket make more sense to use on the LAP instead of the LE5 gasket? Especially in a boosted scenario. I only ask because when I looked into ordering a custom thicker gasket from Cometic, they list the LE5 gasket with a 90mm bore, the LNF with an 88mm bore, and the L61 (a true 2.2L) with an 87mm bore. The L61 won't work because the gasket doesn't have the little circles on it for the VVT actuators (if I understand it correctly). Seems like it would make sense to match bore as closely as possible, but I guess combustion chamber size could be different?
LNF Head Gasket
At 250k miles, I would expect everything to be worn out of spec and need rebuilt. Even with very liberal oil change intervals, it’s still very worn. And it’s doubtful that that it’s been changed like it should as it got more worn.
You might be able to reassemble it and putt around, but no way I would put good parts in It without a full rebuild.
You might be able to reassemble it and putt around, but no way I would put good parts in It without a full rebuild.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Thank you for your input. I've decided against it. $1k for a rusty SS was tempting though lol
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Suspicion confirmed. ZZP recommends the LNF head gasket for the LAP because of the matching bore.
That is what it may do. Shouldn't be a problem. It will return to normal as coolant is sucked back in.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Ok! A few updates!
I now have a 0.050" Viton coated LNF head gasket (which to my understanding is stock). With this and the deck of the head (should have been 0.010", but I forgot to ask) I should be 0.020" closer than I was previously, but importantly still + 0.003" more room than stock. So that should all be good. The LNF gasket also has noticeably more material between cylinders (duh) so it should seal up better too!
I picked up the head today and it looks great, but... the guy noticed that the valves didn't look so great. He's an old head and it really shows. Very knowledgeable dude that has been doing engines for 40 years. Wish I would have taken it to him in the first place. Anyway, he said he noticed the valves didn't seem to be sealing well. He flipped the head over and filled the combustion chambers with mineral oil and blew air behind the valves. You could immediately see bubbles. So I think I'm going to have him do the valves too. He's getting close to retirement and doesn't want to mess with the small valve retainers, so I'm going to take the valve springs off and send it back to him to do the rest. I'd rather get it done right, ya know? I'm going to try and get them out tonight so I can drop it back off tomorrow.
Weather is looking worse and worse, but there's still a decent chance I can get this back together and tested before the snow (salt) flies.
I now have a 0.050" Viton coated LNF head gasket (which to my understanding is stock). With this and the deck of the head (should have been 0.010", but I forgot to ask) I should be 0.020" closer than I was previously, but importantly still + 0.003" more room than stock. So that should all be good. The LNF gasket also has noticeably more material between cylinders (duh) so it should seal up better too!
I picked up the head today and it looks great, but... the guy noticed that the valves didn't look so great. He's an old head and it really shows. Very knowledgeable dude that has been doing engines for 40 years. Wish I would have taken it to him in the first place. Anyway, he said he noticed the valves didn't seem to be sealing well. He flipped the head over and filled the combustion chambers with mineral oil and blew air behind the valves. You could immediately see bubbles. So I think I'm going to have him do the valves too. He's getting close to retirement and doesn't want to mess with the small valve retainers, so I'm going to take the valve springs off and send it back to him to do the rest. I'd rather get it done right, ya know? I'm going to try and get them out tonight so I can drop it back off tomorrow.
Weather is looking worse and worse, but there's still a decent chance I can get this back together and tested before the snow (salt) flies.
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jirwin
Goblin Guru
Guy said the valve guides were all outta whack. You could wiggle the valves around and they'd move quite a bit. Makes sense why they wouldn't be sealing properly. To be clear I paid an ecotec shop (not ZZP) to do these. Frustrating, but at least I know it'll be done right this time
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Vwsaabvt
Goblin Guru
skunkworks?
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Tbf I don't honestly remember what was mentioned at the time of the build, but the head was supposed to be rebuilt. It was ported, new valves, new springs, and new valve seals. Honestly, I had no idea what a valve seat was until today - I assumed it was part of the seal or something idk. So I don't want to flame them, but I guess I just assumed it was part of the process since everything else was done. Idk.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
New valves, spring and seals won't work when installed into worn valve guides is probably what got you to this point.
