JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Got the seat bars welded in. Took square tubing and lined it up the same width as my seat sliders.
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I do not trust myself welding. Its a little terrifying welding the only thing that's gonna keep my butt in this thing but I think my beads look ok. They are small but got good penetration. will try and find a welder to inspect them at a later time.
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I set the sliders so at their rearmost position the seat is all the way at the rear frame rail.
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Pretty happy with how it turned out. There's a **** ton of adjustment and they do not wiggle at all.
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JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Also for anyone wondering, the gauge cluster comes apart super easily. It bothered me that the airbag light and tire pressure light don't turn off so I covered them up with a little piece of tape, on the back side of the panel so nothing is visible from the front. Pretty sure that's illegal but it's not like anyone needs to know the airbags don't work when they don't even exist in the first place.

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You'd never know...


Gonna leave the CEL alone for know. I'm determined to get it running and not ilumate that somehow. It wasn't on last night when it was running for awhile. Just came on with my ground problems today.
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
While installing my brake lines I noticed there was rust and debris in my donor lines. So before I started scrubbing them I hopped online just to check how much new ones would be. Well they are way cheaper than I thought. I was able to replace all lines for under $25. Rubber lines deteriorate anyway, new ones should be considered by everyone at that price.

The straight section (donor rear, Goblin Front): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1261044&cc=1444461&jsn=565
Caliper section : https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1260658&cc=1444461&jsn=569
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
They were a little bit pricey $60 (28") but single piece brake hoses in the front worked out really well. Then a set of 1" brake clamps used on ATV's makes for a nice slick installation.
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AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
BAR-AIR said:
They were a little bit pricey $60 (28") but single piece brake hoses in the front worked out really well. Then a set of 1" brake clamps used on ATV's makes for a nice slick installation
Click to expand...
Do you have more info on the hoses and clamps? I was thinking of a similar setup. Were they custom made lines? Was 28" a good fit?
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
BAR-AIR said:
They were a little bit pricey $60 (28") but single piece brake hoses in the front worked out really well. Then a set of 1" brake clamps used on ATV's makes for a nice slick installation.View attachment 738
Click to expand...
I'd like to know more about the clamps as Well.

If you're going through the trouble for custom lines I'd get stainless...the rubber lines have to be changed just about every other season on the MX bikes.
 
TheNuker

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Yep, I'm going to do full stainless lines also. I had a scary event on the track last year in my Scion Fr-s the brakes overheated got mushy and made for an interesting stop. Switched to stainless the next weekend. Never had an issue like that again.

Nuker-
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
17x8 in the rear and 15x7 fronts. The rear is just about perfect as far as you can't really get any bigger without spacers.
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Clearance on rears. I was hoping to run 235 but it looks like I may go 225 to keep from rubbing the strut tower.

Edit: Ive since found out that 235 are basically flush with 8" rim, 225 just barely stretched, so Im ordering 235/40-17 for the rears. And 205/50-15 for fronts.

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