KSLunsfo - Extended Track - '10 SS/TC

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Reviving my dead build thread here with a question. Hopefully I'll be coming back soon with some overdue updates.

Has anyone installed or removed the fuel tank with the engine in the car? Of course those with an SS turbo will be the most applicable. I'm having some delays with powder coating that's holding me up, it will likely be Friday (~5 days from now) before I will have the tank back to install.

I was wondering if I could go ahead and install the engine and not hate myself for it later...
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Looking at available space and the orientation of the related parts, I don't think you would want to try to snake your newly powder coated gas tank into that location. Best to be patient and wait for your tank before installing the drive train. Would hate to have a scratched powder coat horror story in your build log.;)
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Looking at available space and the orientation of the related parts, I don't think you would want to try to snake your newly powder coated gas tank into that location. Best to be patient and wait for your tank before installing the drive train. Would hate to have a scratched powder coat horror story in your build log.
Thanks. Yeah, that has been my gut feeling on it as well... guess I will try to find some other things to work on.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Finally for some long overdue updates, hitting some of the high points. I got through the refreshing process of the engine. I replaced all timing components including the new tensioner, water pump, all gaskets that were removed, spark plugs etc.

The engine and transmission were sprayed with Rustoleum high temp (2000F) primer then Rustoleum Ultra high temp (1200F) silver. It came out a bit more flashy than I was anticipating but happy enough with the end result.

I will address the valve cover sometime later.

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I cleaned and walnut blasted the intake runners and valves, it was very time consuming and tedious but they're as clean as they've been since the donor rolled off the dealer lot in 2010. Before and after images below. Note, the valves are open in the first image, they were closed before cleaning. I used a combination of plastic and brass picks of various shapes, CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner, compressed air and shop towels.

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With the help of a really good friend and welder I made numerous minor additions or modifications to the frame. I might have missed some but this is most of them:

Custom welded M6 tabs for side panels (overkill but didn't want to add more holes into frame)
Cut tunnel cover into 3 pieces
Welded M4 SS square nuts in tunnel for tunnel cover
Welded M6 SS nuts for hand brake
2 welded posts for M8 bolts through shifter plate for a very solid shifter
I will also be using one of the K Tuned aluminum shifter assemblies
Cut and welded 'ramped' feature for tucking shifter cables under hand brake
M4 rivnuts for floor pans and firewall
M5 rivnuts for all hard brake line hold downs
M5 rivnuts for passenger kick plate

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Side panel mocked up with all of the new holes for the welded tabs.
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Frame sanded and cleaned and ready for powder coat.
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Frame picked up from the powder coater. I went with Kingsport Gray (Prismatic) for the frame, control arms and tunnel cover pieces. The picture doesn't quite do the color justice. Not pictured is the fuel tank, kick plate, front bulkhead panel and a few other small pieces that were coated in a flat black.

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This was a relieving sight.
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I have begun the actual build/assembly process but will leave that for another post.
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
That bright paint on the motor/trans will look right at home once you have a bunch of stuff bolted onto and around it

Not sure if you've thought about it, but those ss nuts could be prone to gaulding if they are overtightened at all and if they don't have never sleeze on them. Been there done that.

Those valves and runners. Wow.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Not sure if you've thought about it, but those ss nuts could be prone to gaulding if they are overtightened at all and if they don't have never sleeze on them. Been there done that.
That's a good point too. My main thinking was just reducing areas of potential rust where possible, minor thing I know but still. And my plan was to run some type of nickel plated steel bolts which based on experience from work will noticeably reduce the chances of galling. It's when an SS fastener is used with a similar composition SS thread that I've seen this happen the most.

I also plan on using a bit of light-medium holding Loctite on the threads and just going a bit beyond finger tight. It's pretty low consequence if a few of them rattle loose and fall out anyway.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Next update...

So far in the build process I have installed:
- all of the brake/clutch hard lines
- bulkhead panel
- radiator/fan
- wired in 2 pin deutsch connector, also on the harness side
- brake booster and master cylinder
- clutch master
- brake and clutch pedal assemblies
- steering rack, power steering unit, ignition switch
- rough routing of the wire harness
- BCM
- fuel tank, pump, filler neck
- gauge cluster
- drivetrain
- fuse box, ECU
- 16AN main water lines, about 75% complete ish

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Attachments

Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
Any reason you haven’t put the floor pan on yet? Seems like it would’ve been way easier when you could flip it upside down.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Any reason you haven’t put the floor pan on yet? Seems like it would’ve been way easier when you could flip it upside down.
Good question. Since I installed rivnuts for the floor pan it'll be really easy to install, even laying on the floor. This just makes it easier to work in/around the frame for now.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Minor update. I've been working on incorporating a battery disconnect switch to have a quick way to shut off power to the car when I'm going to wrench on it or if it's just going to be sitting a while. I don't have a fully installed photo yet as the battery tie down strap still needs to be painted.

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Welded plate for disconnect switch.
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Ground cable (2 gauge) to run from front ground post at the battery to stud on the transmission. I performed the same crimp, solder, heat shrink on the positive cable connections.

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Also picked up stage 2 yesterday, just in time as I inch closer to a first startup.
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Question... for the LNF guys, particularly the ones running the complete DF turbo piping setup, how much cutting did you have to do to the couplers and piping (if any)? It's looking like I need to trim a significant amount off 1 leg of the throttle body coupler and the coupler at the turbo as well. Just wanted to sanity check myself here...
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
I had to cut some off of the coupler at the TB for sure, just don't remember how much. Seems like it was pie shaped piece as well. Maybe 1" on one side and 1-1/2" on the other?
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
I had to cut some off of the coupler at the TB for sure, just don't remember how much. Seems like it was pie shaped piece as well. Maybe 1" on one side and 1-1/2" on the other?
Yeah I guess it appears to me I will just need to keep enough of the straight section to clamp on the throttle body.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
That area of the car isn't super easy to get to in terms of emergency shutdown concerns. Especially if you're strapped in with a harness. I thought about adding a battery cutoff on the transmission tunnel but ended up not.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
That area of the car isn't super easy to get to in terms of emergency shutdown concerns. Especially if you're strapped in with a harness. I thought about adding a battery cutoff on the transmission tunnel but ended up not.
Yep, I thought about how well I would be able to reach down there while sitting in the driver's seat. I'm sure it will be tough if doable at all. However, I wasn't thinking too much of using it as an emergency shutoff and more just a nice feature for working on the car and saving the battery from trickling down if/when the car sits for extended periods.
 
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