Missing Parts and Questions

F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
41175

To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
41176
 
jirwin

jirwin

Goblin Guru
finazzoty said:
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
View attachment 41175
To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
View attachment 41176
Click to expand...
The latter are hub centering rings I believe
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
95Blitz said:
Hub and brake disk.
Click to expand...
I don't remember having any between my hub and disc, but I might have. I haven't had them apart since I installed the brakes originally. Might depend on donor? The only ones I remember are the ones that I bought when I got my wheels.
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
finazzoty said:
Hi guys

Does anyone know the exact part number for these for our rear calipers?
View attachment 41175
To clarify, I don’t know that this is the right part number, these just look similar to what we have - maybe they are the same but I’m not sure. I’m missing one of these.

Also, does anyone know what these are? Little 3D printed rings of some sort that came with the brakes
View attachment 41176
Click to expand...
Ended up getting the retainer clips with a brake pad kit from Advance Auto. Guy was pretty cool and gave me the whole thing at cost so I basically got spare set of rear pads for half the price :D

I've now moved onto bleeding and have returned to banging my head on a wall. Started on the passenger side rear, and I've been at it for hours, still getting air bubbles. What are the most common leak points you all have experienced in the past?
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
I've tried doing it both with the pedal and vacuum. I would say brakes are pretty mushy. Pedal goes all the way to the floor. I can hear the fluid "gushing" as I push the pedal down.

When I try to vacuum bleed, its just an endless stream of bubbles it seems.

Side note that may be helpful:
Last night as I was bleeding, I felt the pedal start to get firm, but as I continued to apply pressure to the pedal, I felt a "thunk" for lack of a better word - and then the pedal went back to the floor. Almost as if I dislodged some debris or something.

This morning, tried vacuuming again and just bubbles.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I never had any success with vacuum bleeding. Somehow, although the supply lines between the master cylinders and the reservoir held pressure without leaking, they would pull bubbles into the system with a vacuum bleeder.

I can bleed all 4 brakes with a pressure bleeder in about 10 minutes by myself. The clutch requires an assistant as the short run between the bleeder and the slave cylinder (after the bleeder) can only be bled by cracking the bleeder with the pedal depressed. Again, though, I can purge all the air from the upstream side of the clutch hydraulic line in about 30 seconds with the pressure bleeder.
 
S

Scott #321

Well-Known Member
I had no luck vacuum bleeding my 09 TC and only had success after making a pressure bleeder. Vacuum bleeders tend to pull air past the threads on the bleeder nipple so the presence of bubbles never seems to end during the process in my experience.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Sounds like it might be an issue with the master cylinder.

My experience with vacuum bleeding matches Rauq and Scott.

I was able to pressure bleed the clutch by myself though. I may have pressed the pedal and then added pressure but I don't remember.
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Well I think I've got it worked out. Next is the clutch. I've read Lonny's write up - Is there more than one bleed valve on the F35? Wondering how you would bleed the slave
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Only 1 bleed valve that I know of. Bled it the same as the brakes. Vacuum bled the system to get rid of most of the air, then had my son pump up the pressure in the clutch, then I cracked the clutch bleeder loose, close the bleeder, and repeat.
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Well I think I figured it out (only one bleed valve). Tricky little SOB to get to now that the fuse box and all are already installed. Think I got all of the air out of both lines - clutch pedal is pretty heavy now. What would be the tell tale sign if I didn’t?
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
It would mush to the floor and not disengage the clutch at all - in the extreme. Otherwise it may not full disengage the clutch and gear grinding is a potential hazard.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
finazzoty said:
Well I think I figured it out (only one bleed valve). Tricky little SOB to get to now that the fuse box and all are already installed. Think I got all of the air out of both lines - clutch pedal is pretty heavy now. What would be the tell tale sign if I didn’t?
Click to expand...
Either it won't start in gear (engage the parking brake and the foot brake for safety) or it won't shift into gear or will grind if you start it in neutral.
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Ok this is what I figured. There is the TINIEST bit of play in the pedal right at the beginning of the clutch stroke (which I think is just from the linkage), but other than that, firm consistent pressure. Pretty sure it’s all set. Just days away from being ready for inspection wooo!!
 
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