Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
The Headlight modulators annoy the hell out of me. You basically just get use to being invisible or be like me and do 99% of your riding on the track.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I think it's less of a problem with the Goblins and bikes being invisible, and more of a problem with the opposing drivers. At risk of being pretty negative, people in general seem to be getting more and more stupid on the road. I had to full-lock my brakes last week while in a 45 MPH zone, because a guy was coming out of a side street, clearly looked at me, but decided he had ample room to pull out even though he was only about 8 car lengths in front of me. Luckily, even with locked brakes, the Goblin can stop on a dime so no harm no foul, by my gosh it was a close call.

Oh, and then he went 35 in the 45 MPH zone to add insult to injury.
 

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
The Headlight modulators annoy the hell out of me. You basically just get use to being invisible or be like me and do 99% of your riding on the track.
Every time I see a bike with one of those I think if your that scared stay home !
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know when the pink wire you put in for the IC pump goes hot? I was thinking about using that to power the fan on my external oil cooler i'll install this week.

Nuker-
The intended wire (via DF) is hot at all times when ignition is on. Also, when this is wired up it will actually keep the car running for a couple seconds after switching the ignition off. I don't see a major issue with that, but there's talk of correcting that here on the forum using an inline diode I believe.
 
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
The intended wire (via DF) is hot at all times when ignition is on. Also, when this is wired up it will actually keep the car running for a couple seconds after switching the ignition off. I don't see a major issue with that, but there's talk of correcting that here on the forum using an inline resistor diode I believe.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Got my aftermarket oil cooler installed with the OTTP fitting. Adds another 1.5q to my oil system and temps are a lot lower 20-25deg!

Pro tip if your not going to use the aftermarket oil temp bung….make sure you plug it with an M10 flange head and o ring or you will blow oil everywhere and speaking from experience it’s not fun.

Nuker-
26263

26264

26265
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Anyone running an auto draining oil catch can like the one powell used to have for the cobalts? I'm getting enough oil in the intake I think a catch can at this power level is kinda needed.

I can't seem to find that powell racing one anywhere, And from what I read on the cobaltss.net forums it was a really great piece that auto drained into the oil pan so you never needed to empty it.


It might end up being an off season upgrade along with pistons and rods. I'm worried at 440hp power level i'm on a ticking time bomb on these powder forged LDK rods..... The block from what I understand can handle over 500hp no problem.


Right now winter mods are going to be
- Catch can
- Forged Pistons and Rods
- 82# supertech Valve springs and titanium retainers
- ATI super balancer (I really want that 7500+ redline)
- Maybe a new intake if OTTP ever gets around to the LNF version of the LSJ intake.

I think i'm going to plan to keep the stock cam as I really don't need over 500 HP.

Any input on specific parts is welcome!

Nuker-
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I do not recall anyone else following my footsteps on this one. Could be wrong.
I can help you do the set up with a few pics If you are really interested.
I have been pleased with the operation of the system.
Mr. Powell is a smart guy, but I had less than a nice experience doing business with him.
the oil/air separator he sold was not a high quality part. There are better ones out there like below that I have thought about upgrading to.

The thread below is only two pages.

 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Your winter mod list looks great! If you're going with the valves / springs / damper you may want to consider the neutral balance shafts as well.

For the valves, if you're thinking about the powell racing $eparator but holding out for an ottp intake manifold (maybe due to costs?) I would allocate the funds for the powell to the TTR intake available now with external pcv and go with a cheap catch can. We're never going to totally escape the valve coking but an external pcv with catch can inline and then maybe meth injection is about the best we can do. I think you have to email powell to purchase btw.

I know you're not interested in cams but ZZP usually has a black friday sale and last year they had a great deal on the ported head, stage 2 cams, 82# valves & retainers and tune. Not necessary for your power goals but might be something to consider!
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Your winter mod list looks great! If you're going with the valves / springs / damper you may want to consider the neutral balance shafts as well.

For the valves, if you're thinking about the powell racing $eparator but holding out for an ottp intake manifold (maybe due to costs?) I would allocate the funds for the powell to the TTR intake available now with external pcv and go with a cheap catch can. We're never going to totally escape the valve coking but an external pcv with catch can inline and then maybe meth injection is about the best we can do. I think you have to email powell to purchase btw.

I know you're not interested in cams but ZZP usually has a black friday sale and last year they had a great deal on the ported head, stage 2 cams, 82# valves & retainers and tune. Not necessary for your power goals but might be something to consider!
That sounds good, I actually did a balance shaft delete before I put the new engine in! So good to go there, but I think that is smart to look at that ported head combo because the price is right on it. And if I can make my same power level at a lower boost even better!


Thanks guys,
Nuker-
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Front R888rs hit the belts last night LOL Got a good 2500 miles out of them with some really aggressive fast runs. Those suckers heat up really good over 140. Crazy thing is the rears have at least 1/2 tread depth on them.

Nuker-
 

Lndshrk Steve

Well-Known Member
A lot of times high performance tires have very little rubber between the treads and the cords. Lighter weight. So when the tread is gone you are right into the cords. Most regular tires have more rubber in between. Been there, done that . . . many times.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
What pressures are you running?
I'm running 18psi in the front and 20 in the rears, But my camber is pretty high, I'm going to roll the bottom links in a couple threads and see what that gets me on the new tires.


I'll post a pic of the belt showing tonight when I get home!

Nuker-
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
So bad… I screwed the top heim joints out 2 threads but I don’t want to move them any more. I was planning on screwing the bottoms in 2 which is all they have I think. Besides that I need to get longer heim joints for the top?

Nuker-
26550
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The A arms can be lengthened by the bottom of the A arm (orange), and/or the top (black).
26555
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
The A arms can be lengthened by the bottom of the A arm (orange), and/or the top (black).
View attachment 26555
Ahhh Yes good idea I'll roll those out like 3 threads and see what happens. I'm going to be out of the country for a while so not sure i'll get to new tires before its cold this year. But next year ohhhh boy.

Nuker-
 
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