V1 #339 Build Log

[jcdman]

First entry for #339 build log! Standard Length, Full cage. 2005 Chevy Cobalt SS/SC manual used as the donor. Dropped off the frame for powder coating 2 weeks ago, going with Illusion cherry.

What I've done so far:
Wiring Harness
Rebuilt Motor (new piston rings, gaskets, water pump, timing tensioners, thermostat, hot tanked/painted), M62 supercharger rebuilt by Category V Port Worx.
New billet aluminum flywheel and 6 puck ceramic clutch.
Sticking with the oem 5x110 lug nut pattern. Going with a 17x8 wheel with 235/45r17 Dunlop Sport Max tire.

 

[Rttoys]

Cool

With the power you are running I would recommend a little wider tire and more sticky. I’m running r888r’s 245 and its great for the road, but could use a little more in the rear for traction. 245s or even 255 would still work well on your 8” wheels

 

[jcdman]

Cool

With the power you are running I would recommend a little wider tire and more sticky. I’m running r888r’s 245 and its great for the road, but could use a little more in the rear for traction. 245s or even 255 would still work well on your 8” wheels

I'd like to get something wider once I burn through this set. Had these laying around so I figured it'd be a decent set to start with.

 

[Rttoys]

Understandable. Just take it easy until you get use to the power and traction. Not trying to be preachy, but with a sc or tc engine, you can overpower the rear tires very quickly.

 

[jcdman]

Frame back from powder coat, went with illusion cherry and it looks awesome. Love the two tone effect under sunlight. Got a lot done this weekend, floor panels, pedals, brake lines, radiator, and started laying the wiring harness

 

[jcdman]

Looking closer at the engine post rebuild, it looks like I'm missing some parts. Anyone know where I can find these?

422 - Oil Pressure Relief Valve Spring
423 - Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plunger
424 - Oil Pressure Relief Valve O-ring Seal

 

[Scott #321]

Autozone has a new pump which includes the cover https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-pump/p/melling-oil-pump-m349/895428_0_0

 

[JBINTX]

Frame back from powder coat, went with illusion cherry and it looks awesome. Love the two tone effect under sunlight. Got a lot done this weekend, floor panels, pedals, brake lines, radiator, and started laying the wiring harness

I will NEVER post another pic of my garage after seeing one like this!!!!.........

 

[jcdman]

Been quite busy this week:

Ordered some wheel bearings for the front knuckles, didn't realize the ABS version of the rear bearing wouldn't clear... Looked through another members post and saw he ordered these Chevy Malibu hubs so I picked those up as well (sku: HB612289PR from autoshack.com). They fit great! Waiting for lug nuts to come in now as I may have an issue with the bolts not being long enough... Looks like I may have 3 or 4 threads available and I'd really like more than that.

Mounted the engine and began bolting up the subframe. Little confused as to why carriage bolts are included in the kit for the subframe? My frame doesn't have a square indent to hold the rounded off side of the bolt so not sure how I'm going to be able to torque those. Might have to get my own bolts to replace them. Can't find where I stored my donor subframe bolts either so zipties it'll be haha. Any else have issues with the one motor mount lining up (facing the front of the car)?

Rewrapped the engine wiring harness and of course I only labeled one of the connectors when I took it off. Past me must be laughing. We'll see how many fuses I blow when I go to start it.

Questions I have!
-Can anyone share photos of their steering shaft? I'm not sure how all of that goes on.
-The build videos show the manual transmission ignition switch having two plugs, but I only have one. I have two connectors in my loom but nowhere to put the second one.
-Where are the other LSJ guys mounting your heat exchanger? I assume that the white tubing is included so that the exchanger is mounted up front in the car, curious to see what others have done. I was thinking it would have to go in front of the radiator or I would build a scoop and mount it over top the valve cover (similar to the intercoolers on the subaru WRX)
-Cruise control wire is all the way in the back of the loom? Is this meant to be back there or do I need to route that back to the dash?

 

[Ross]

The carriage bolt is to prevent chaffing on the coolant hoses.
I lifted my motor a bit to help line up the front engine mount.
The ignition switch has a plug, and there is a GM VATS receiver that goes around the key hole that also has a plug. It is some kind of receiver for the vehicle anti theft system, and it talks to the smart key.
I have hung the heat exchanger below my roll bar. Then I moved it behind the driver's head. Some people mount it is side pods in front of the rear wheel. Lots of choices.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Been quite busy this week:

Ordered some wheel bearings for the front knuckles, didn't realize the ABS version of the rear bearing wouldn't clear... Looked through another members post and saw he ordered these Chevy Malibu hubs so I picked those up as well (sku: HB612289PR from autoshack.com). They fit great! Waiting for lug nuts to come in now as I may have an issue with the bolts not being long enough... Looks like I may have 3 or 4 threads available and I'd really like more than that.

Mounted the engine and began bolting up the subframe. Little confused as to why carriage bolts are included in the kit for the subframe? My frame doesn't have a square indent to hold the rounded off side of the bolt so not sure how I'm going to be able to torque those. Might have to get my own bolts to replace them. Can't find where I stored my donor subframe bolts either so zipties it'll be haha. Any else have issues with the one motor mount lining up (facing the front of the car)?

Rewrapped the engine wiring harness and of course I only labeled one of the connectors when I took it off. Past me must be laughing. We'll see how many fuses I blow when I go to start it.

Questions I have!
-Can anyone share photos of their steering shaft? I'm not sure how all of that goes on.
-The build videos show the manual transmission ignition switch having two plugs, but I only have one. I have two connectors in my loom but nowhere to put the second one.
-Where are the other LSJ guys mounting your heat exchanger? I assume that the white tubing is included so that the exchanger is mounted up front in the car, curious to see what others have done. I was thinking it would have to go in front of the radiator or I would build a scoop and mount it over top the valve cover (similar to the intercoolers on the subaru WRX)
-Cruise control wire is all the way in the back of the loom? Is this meant to be back there or do I need to route that back to the dash?

Steering shaft photo.

8

 

[jcdman]

Steering shaft photo.
View attachment 293308

Thanks for the response! I think I might've described the wrong part. I've got the collapsible steering shaft installed, but confused on the other side where the steering wheel and turn signal attach

 

[Gtstorey]

Steering Column Assembly

12 new items · Album by Adam Doyle

photos.google.com

 

[jcdman]

Went to try and start the motor today and as I feared, I have the security light showing up on the dash. Searched through my big ol bag of stripped electronics and connectors and I can't find a VATs receiver that would go around my ignition. Need to try and find a way around this now. Anyone know how this anti theft system works? I've read on some GM models the car just looks for a resistance coming from the key and that would be easy enough to mimic. I also pulled some VAT receivers from the local scrapyard incase I might be able to reprogram the key to one of those.

 

[Rttoys]

You can delete it with hp tuners.

 

[jcdman]

You can delete it with hp tuners.

Okay good option. I'll have to research that more, never used a tuner

 

[jcdman]

Test fitted Sparco Grid Q seats with the DF Seat mounts and those go in well. Got my HP Tuners and wrote a tune to the ECM that disables VATS, however I'm still having no crank issues.

I've checked fuses and the Tan data wires on my OBD2 (6 and 14) are showing 60ohms. I think the next step is to trace power to make sure it's getting to the starter? Make sure grounds are all good? Any advice is appreciated. I can hear the relay click (I believe the starter relay is by the passenger footwell). I do have a few connectors still unplugged by the front of the car, brake reservoir, TPMS?, and a have the water pump/intercooler wires not connected to anything either (back of the car pink/black). Anything obvious I'm missing?

 

[Ross]

The starter relay and 30A fuse are in the fuse box... but I can hear a relay click in the passenger footwell BCM too. Does the instrument cluster work? Any OBDII codes? Did you get the 3 purple connectors correct?
Will it start if you turn the key on, and jump the starter motor?

 

[Wes]

Doesn't look like you have much going on in the pedal area.. Clutch switch installed yet?

 

[jcdman]

@Ross Instrument cluster works, fuse is good, purple connectors are good.
@Wes clutch switches are installed, just not bled. I've been holding the clutch down and verifying one switch disengages and the other is pressed.

I think I have the starter wired up completely wrong so swallow your drink before laughing haha. In the photo attached, I have the purple wire going to the small post, and that black wire above is coming from the alternator (ground probably). So this is obviously wrong. Is that purple wire just a trigger? Do I need to run a power wire from the starter top post to the post on the fuse box? Is that slightly corroded thick wire on the bottom starter post the ground?

Where does that alternator ground go?