V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC

[Gtstorey]

That should be the original stock map sensor. There may be a different color connector that works with the original charge pipe sensor installed or someone may have changed the charge sensor only. Hard to know which. I guess at some point you will have to see if it works. And if it plugs in, there could still be an issue of something changed in the tune.

You probably need to confirm the wires in the connector actually trace back to the correct pins on the ECM,

 

[ccgillett]

That should be the original stock map sensor. There may be a different color connector that works with the original charge pipe sensor installed or someone may have changed the charge sensor only. Hard to know which. I guess at some point you will have to see if it works. And if it plugs in, there could still be an issue of something changed in the tune.

You probably need to confirm the wires in the connector actually trace back to the correct pins on the ECM,

Yeah this is a CoPart donor, so aside from knowing the mileage I don't know much else. The original owner of this Goblin had a build thread going here, https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/toms-turbo-goblin-2008-ss-donor.13/ , I will check it out to see if there's any useful info.

I will try to chase the wires back to the ECM, was also planning of taking this thing to a qualified tuner once it's driving.

 

[ccgillett]

So from the original build thread, here are a couple pictures of what I believe is the 2nd MAP sensor in the Cobalt charge pipe. There's not a lot of detail, but it looks like a stock GM part to me:

 

[Gtstorey]

The stage sensor is a GM sensor so II don’t think the appearance doesn’t mean much. But the color description in the service manual can be a little misleading since it doesn’t always name all of the colors. The one you have may still be considered “black” so it may be correct.

 

[ccgillett]

Couple of questions as the weekend gets underway and the garage beckons...

(1) Does anybody know the specification for this fitting? It's for the line coming into the charge pipe, in the same tube that contains the second MAP sensor. I rummaged my parts collection but didn't see anything. I also noticed the GM-sourced MAF sensor does not fit flush in the tube - is this expected?

(2) for this vent line, what sort of tool(s) do I need to disassemble it and remove the hose? I'd like to attach the fittings together and then run a rubber hose to the charge pipe fitting referenced above:

@Sebnuts did this so I know it's possible, just puzzled about how these fittings work:

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Looks like a job for a fuel line disconnect tool

 

[comegetjoe]

Thats a 45°barbed fitting. It aims towards the back of the car, leveled out.

Those fittings you're curious about have 4 tabs that lock over a ring. If you can lift all 4 tabs at the same time, the fitting will pop off. Sqwatch used part of a smaller ziptie at one point to fit into the groove and push it in to release the fitting on the valve cover, should all be the same if you can't fit a fuel disconnect tool in there.

 

[comegetjoe]

Don't quote me on that NPT part... I *think its an NPT 1/8" thread.

 

[Sebnuts]

I could not fit a fuel line disconnect tool in this to get the check valve off.

I just cut the metal line off, i wasn't worried about saving it because I wasn't planning on using it.
A standard fuel line tool did work at the valve cover connection though. Like this, or similar.

 

[ccgillett]

Ok cool - I have a fuel line disconnect tool set somewhere. @Sebnuts I'm confused about this: "I just cut the metal line off, i wasn't worried about saving it because I wasn't planning on using it." Did you re-use the entire plastic assembly at the end opposite the valve cover?

 

[Sebnuts]

Ok cool - I have a fuel line disconnect tool set somewhere. @Sebnuts I'm confused about this: "I just cut the metal line off, i wasn't worried about saving it because I wasn't planning on using it." Did you re-use the entire plastic assembly at the end opposite the valve cover?

Yes, the plastic assembly is the check valve. I basically split the braded metal hose end off of it.

 

[comegetjoe]

I gotcha, Bu.
One end at the intake by the filter.
One end by the metal braided line. I need clamps on mine, but you get the idea.

 

[ccgillett]

Well this took approximately 1 minute, from the time I took out the disconnect kit until I had piece off the engine . Still not sure how I'll get the check valve detached. I'll start with splitting off the hose.

Fun fact: bought the disconnect kit years ago thinking I needed it for another project, never used it. Wasn't sure how to use it...YouTube to the rescue. Now I know lol....

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Cut a piece of zip tie and wrap around the fitting, then push it in with a screwdriver. It may take trying different number of wraps and finesse with the screwdriver, but this is how I got mine apart - with no hose cutting up!

 

[ccgillett]

Unrelated ok maybe related...

The employer's headquarters is located in Madison, WI and so I frequently travel there from Boston, MA. Usually I go fly from BOS->ORD and then drive 90 minutes up to Madison...more flight options, cheaper flights, etc.

Yesterday I wrapped up things in Madison early and was headed to Chicago for a 6:30PM flight at 11:00 in the morning. Having some free time I decided to stop by Chicago Performance Tuning to check out the KTM X-bow Comp R racecar. I was interested in these before I found the Goblin, and they've got several Comp Rs, as well as the GT2 for sale there.

I look at, sat in, and drooled over a 2019 Comp R. Carbon Fiber tub, Audi/VW 2.0 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine, 295HP/310FtLb torque. Parts are mostly Audi/VAG. The car is physically larger than the Goblin...same wheelbase (97.5"), but the Goblin has track width of 59" vs. 75" for the KTM. KTM dry weight is 1800 pound vs 1600 pounds for the Goblin. KTM in stock trim has a 6 speed manual transmission. with $$$ options for DSG, sequential shift, etc. New KTM comes with a fuel cell, Halon fire suppression system, a minimal digital dash, kill switch, removable steering wheel, harnesses, and a seat pad/insert for the driver. Seating is fixed position, so there are adjustments for the steering column and pedal box to accommodate drivers of different sizes. They're not kits, but come as fully assembled turn-key cars. The one I saw had a "Ready to Race" tag on it from the factory in Germany.

These cars are not intended to be street-legal in the US, although there's at least one on the road with via a Montana LLC registration.

Comp Rs were priced at $104,500 in 2019 when they were brought to the US, these are listed for sale at $89,000 and it's truly a new zero-hours car. They are gorgeous, well made, easy to take apart and wrench on, and pretty quick cars. Did I mention that they cost $89,000?

I was struck by the similarities in characteristics between the Goblin and the KTM...wheelbase, engine displacement/power, suspension setup (edit - not counting the inboard push-rod shocks, but rather the uprights, steering rack, etc. which all seem very familiar compared to the Goblin), weight-to-horsepower, etc. I feel like a properly built/sorted Goblin (see also Justin Reed) could hang with these cars on track for a fraction of the price. LNF, LSJ and similar power units almost have to be a fraction of the price for something VW and 300 HP is very attainable. The biggest difference would be real aero (wing, rear diffuser, etc.) on the KTM, where Goblins allegedly can't benefit from aero. I've got perhaps $19,000 into my build (including a few hundred $ for tools and garage stuff that's not specific to this car), and will likely have this completed and on track for well under $25,000. Compared to the KTM I've got $64,000 available for tires, gas, and consumables.

I continue to be happy with my decision to buy a Goblin. Someday I'll have my carbon fiber monocoque car...but this is really good for now.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Unrelated ok maybe related...

Compared to the KTM I've got $64,000 available for tires, gas, and consumables.

That’s a slightly used tow rig and trailer. Even more if you count it in snickers bars and Gatorade.

 

[Rttoys]

If I had F U money, I would have one of those in a heartbeat Have never seen one in person though.

 

[ccgillett]

That’s a slightly used tow rig and trailer. Even more if you count it in snickers bars and Gatorade.

I've got the tow rig and trailer, so that's a lot of snickers bars and Gatorade...which is definitely essential!

 

[ccgillett]

If I had F U money, I would have one of those in a heartbeat Have never seen one in person though.

I most definitely need F U money!

 

[ccgillett]

My kit came with the one piece tunnel cap, which has been superseded by the new 3-piece cap. I have the new cap and the new billet shifter from DF. Today I did a super sketchy mockup of how the new tunnel cap installs. I realized that the position of the cable is way back in the standard length chassis compared to the original tunnel and based on where cables fall when I lay them out. For example:

Is the 3 piece cap universal for the standard and extended length chassis, i.e. do I need to cut down the long piece that goes up front in order to get the retainers in position? Or do I need shorter cables? Presumably the cables aren't meant to bend and twist to make them fit that low. On the other hand, if I do cut the long piece to make it fit, won't it be an awkward reach for the shifter lever?

Also, what is the purpose of the 3 holes in this short piece (which I believe lies right in front of the firewall)?

Lastly, should I cut the upright piece (short leg of the "L") in the orginal tunnel and bolt that in over the wiring up front just to close things off a bit more? I'm sorta sad wasting a nice piece that was $ to powdercoat, but such is life....