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V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
Mounted up the intercooler, which turbed out to be a lot more fiddly than I had expected, glad that's done.
Previously I had mocked up fittings for the turbo plumbing, and I started to connect things up today. There's an almost-U shaped fitting that helps to route the charge air into the engine. When I position that, and make sure it's "all the way up" on the flange on the engine side the fitting rubs against the fuel take and seems constricted - almost folded. Is this normal? It doesn't seem correct, and since this is an older kit it's entirely possible that I have an incorrect part.
Previously I had mocked up fittings for the turbo plumbing, and I started to connect things up today. There's an almost-U shaped fitting that helps to route the charge air into the engine. When I position that, and make sure it's "all the way up" on the flange on the engine side the fitting rubs against the fuel take and seems constricted - almost folded. Is this normal? It doesn't seem correct, and since this is an older kit it's entirely possible that I have an incorrect part.
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comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
You have to cut that u-shaped coupler on the throttlebody side, cut it down a little bit at a time until it just clears the gas tank. I've got less than 1/4" clearance between the tank and that coupler.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
Great, that's what I was thinking. With the neoprene couplers, can I just use shop scissors to trim any of them to fit? I am gonna have a similar issue on the other side of the intercooler with the couplers and piping coming from the turbo. Sorry for the newb question, I haven't done plumbing like this before.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
I had to cut down that 45° coupler coming off of the turbo, but only after making sure i had to first. Clearing that rear frame bar was key.
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comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
How's this coming @ccgillett ?
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
It's been a weird few months. I got the turbo plumbed and started rough-in on the plumbing the A2W intercooler. I was then sidelined for a medical issue that was ultimately resolved surgically in late September. I was blocked from lifting stuff more than 5 pounds or doing heavy pushing/pulling for a few weeks, but that's been withdrawn now so I can get back to work.
I'm not happy with the air intake routing and have been looking at other build photos. I think I will re-route mine and use a snorkel of some sort to direct airflow as I'm worried about the stock routing interfering with the pax-side suspension.
"What's this box of parts" is always a scary thing to hear, and we found a box with a bunch of hardware in it buried in a box full of old donor parts. This hardware is what was originally sourced for stuff like fuse box mounting, etc. I'll take off my home-brew bits and use the supplied hardware.
There's also an issue with front tie-rods and I seem to have 3 or 4 different sizes/part numbers. Goal for this weekend is to (a) get the front brakes and hubs installed so I can fill the hydraulics reservoir and bleed the brakes; (b) get the car to start with the induction plumbing done; (c) shoot a quick video about my tie rod issues so I can whine for more help; (d) try to not get distracted by Adam selling shop cars
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ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
Aaaaaand we're back! After a a lengthy period of unwellness including an unrelated surgery, I now have a new left shoulder and am now pain-free, what a lifesaver! Doc removed all my restrictions a month ago so I can finally get back to this car. If you've got a bad shoulder due to arthritis and your doc says "shoulder replacement surgery" you should do it. Don't be like me and endure 5 years of intense pain needlessly.
When I got the car it was slapped together enough that it could roll on its own, but the uprights were assembled incorrectly (and with Grade 5 hardware) and the car had the original (thinner) control arms that were subsequently recalled/replaced by DF. After a false start involving wrong tie rod ends last year it was time to do this correctly.
Over the weekend I cleaned up everything, got the shop back in order, and purchased new Grade 8 hardware. I correctly assembled the front uprights and got them on the car. Then I installed the brand new wheel hubs and then then new front brakes with Brembo pads. I managed to get 3 of the 4 brake line clips to rivet into the uprights successfully, one self-destructed (I might have forgotten to open up that one with 1/4" bit). I have many spare rivets and several coated brake line clamps, so I'll just sub in one of those for the broken piece.
With that done I verified brake line connectivity to all 4 corners, checking out the rear junction connector as well the master cylinder connectivity, etc. I reviewed everything for tightness, correct fit, retaining clips in place, etc. Then I filled the brake reservoir, and after many brake pedal pumps was able to get fluid flowing to all 4 corners. I still have a very spongy pedal and no caliper movement, but I haven't done a proper 2-man bleed process yet so presumably that will fix it.
When I bleed the clutch will the pedal begin to return on its own when the bleeding process is finished?
I have wheel spacers to install on all 4 corners to support my "big slicks" square setup. I need to cut down the lugs on the hubs, so I only need to make 20 perfect cuts. Nervous about that, but it's on deck to start tonight.
A few photos....
When I got the car it was slapped together enough that it could roll on its own, but the uprights were assembled incorrectly (and with Grade 5 hardware) and the car had the original (thinner) control arms that were subsequently recalled/replaced by DF. After a false start involving wrong tie rod ends last year it was time to do this correctly.
Over the weekend I cleaned up everything, got the shop back in order, and purchased new Grade 8 hardware. I correctly assembled the front uprights and got them on the car. Then I installed the brand new wheel hubs and then then new front brakes with Brembo pads. I managed to get 3 of the 4 brake line clips to rivet into the uprights successfully, one self-destructed (I might have forgotten to open up that one with 1/4" bit). I have many spare rivets and several coated brake line clamps, so I'll just sub in one of those for the broken piece.
With that done I verified brake line connectivity to all 4 corners, checking out the rear junction connector as well the master cylinder connectivity, etc. I reviewed everything for tightness, correct fit, retaining clips in place, etc. Then I filled the brake reservoir, and after many brake pedal pumps was able to get fluid flowing to all 4 corners. I still have a very spongy pedal and no caliper movement, but I haven't done a proper 2-man bleed process yet so presumably that will fix it.
When I bleed the clutch will the pedal begin to return on its own when the bleeding process is finished?
I have wheel spacers to install on all 4 corners to support my "big slicks" square setup. I need to cut down the lugs on the hubs, so I only need to make 20 perfect cuts. Nervous about that, but it's on deck to start tonight.
A few photos....
Attachments
duthehustle93
Well-Known Member
- duthehustle93 Well-Known Member
Do you have any additional info on the recalled control arms? I got replacement steering arms from DF, and asked if there's any additional recalls, and they told me that it's just the steering arms.
Correct, it'll return once it's bled. I used a cheapo harbor freight vacuum bleeder to get it started, then did a manual bleed from there. It wasn't bad at all.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
I may have used the wrong terminology here. There's only one recall from DF that I know about, and it's for the part circled in the picture below (not the upright, but the attached arm). I've referred to that as a control arm, if that's the wrong name then I apology for being dumb and confusing
duthehustle93
Well-Known Member
- duthehustle93 Well-Known Member
I may have used the wrong terminology here. There's only one recall from DF that I know about, and it's for the part circled in the picture below (not the upright, but the attached arm). I've referred to that as a control arm, if that's the wrong name then I apology for being dumb and confusing
lol, all good! Yep, that's the steering arm recall. I was freaking out thinking I'd have to pull my front suspension back apart right after getting my alignment dialed in.
duthehustle93
Well-Known Member
- duthehustle93 Well-Known Member
All good man!
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Perhaps putting the lugnuts on the studs, cutting them and removing the lug nuts. That way you can chase the threads? Just a thought.
Good to see you back.
