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I would start with that P2229 diagnostic trouble code. The 2 evap DTCs are normal for a goblin.

I ended up bending the parking brake tubes, and yes they eventually broke. I have an extended frame, with the stock SS seats. The seat is fully slide back, and I don't have room to recline, I am 5'10+". I can slide the seats forward, and put 3 gallon jugs behind each seat. The forward seating...

If you drill and cap the thermostat housing, you are delaying the opening of the thermostat... for both the oil and coolant. Maybe leave that modification until after we hear back from Vwsaabvt.

Yes, your drawing looks correct. A slower responding thermostat also means a slower responding oil cooler, as there is no coolant flow thru the oil cooler until the thermostat opens. I wonder if @Vwsaabvt has watched his temperature gauge to see how much slower it is.

After analyzing the LSJ water cooling system, I see no reason why the thermostat modification wouldn't work. It basically bypasses the cabin heater, and loops the water the same way the water heater would have, but the new bypass loop is a few inches away from the thermostat. So the thermostat...

Vwsaabvt did the hole modification on his thermostat housing.

There hasn't been an end date announced. You should contact DF, and order the last one...

I also made a custom plug for the missing chain tensioner. I used a tap and a M6 bolt... but your method looks good too.

I agree, rear main seal. Drop the engine, split the transmission off, remove the clutch, replace rear main seal, put it together again. Whole weekend is gone! Maybe add the Camaro clutch remote bleeder extension .. or at least bleed the clutch before lifting the subframe into its final position.

I didn't know that an electric thermostat existed. Interesting... but I missed the Why. Why did you spend 5 hours reverse engineering the thermostat? Congrats on including your son's fingerprints into your build. Gotta start learning cars sometime.

The oil cooler's water lines connect to the top of the thermostat, so they are only active when the thermostat opens. There is a plug on the LSJ block, below the oil filter, that is used with a M12x1.75 to 1/8"x27 NPT thread adapter to measure oil temp/pressure. This is the oil after the oil...

I will answer for rodo... I don't think you can cool the oil too much, because the water is the correct temperature, so it can only cool it down to the correct temp.

That dyemondFab one is nice bling. ZZP sells a Saab intake for $400ish... you probably could source one second hand for less... Lots of choices!

Those water to oil coolers should work nicely. Like Dale said, you increased the amount of oil in your system, from the extra oil lines. I have heard that the stock oil to water cooler does sometimes leak, so maybe an aftermarket one might be more reliable. Dale, the stock Cobalt has this...

Maybe you are looking at the barometer sensor, and the MAP sensor?

The stock Cobalt has 2 pressure sensors, MAP and TMAP. The one with an extra wire is the Temperature & MAP one. The stock Cobalt could run the 2 fans slowly at 6V each, or fast at 12V each. When used in the Goblin, we only run the 1 radiator fan when the PCM requests the fast mode. That blue...

The stock Cobalt used the radiator fan. If you wire it to that, it would occasionally turn on. I don't run a fan on them, as when I'm under boost, I am also moving fast enough to cool them.

You have the "frozen boost" intercooler, a pump and 2 side heat exchangers. I would plumb those 4 items in a circle, and add coolant. I also added a visual flow indicator.

A lot of builders added air-to-oil coolers... but that doesn't make it better. Back to stock is better. Add this back, direct bolt on. .

So your LSJ doesn't use the stock oil to coolant heat exchanger? If so, then yes, I would put it back to stock. If track usage heats up your oil, then you need more heat exchanged on your engine coolant.... which will keep the oil at the right temp.