V1 Purging Air from Coolant System

[95Blitz]

So this hole eliminates the need to loop the heater hose?

If what Adam posted in the link above my picture is true, then this would do away with the loop.
Water comes out of the head and drops right into the water pump intake path.

 

[finazzoty]

Well….that did indeed fix the issue. Thank you all for helping me work through that. That’s what I get for trying to be fancy I guess lol. In the words of Sebastian Vettel…what a stupid action!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Good lesson learned for anyone who has been following this posting.

 

[Gtstorey]

I think this is an issue on more than just ecotec engines. I brought it up on a LS swap vehicle on HPT forums about the time it was discussed here and the guy said that it solved his issue too.

 

[95Blitz]

Well….that did indeed fix the issue. Thank you all for helping me work through that. That’s what I get for trying to be fancy I guess lol. In the words of Sebastian Vettel…what a stupid action!

The loop added back in or the hole?

 

[finazzoty]

Ended up going with the loop for the time being. I would like to eventually eliminate that loop (its a bit unsightly), but I'm really pushing to get this build on the road at the moment and didn't want to take the time to mess with pulling the thermostat housing off and such. Will probably go back and fool with it later.

 

[David]

Did you drill the hole under the pass side plug?
View attachment 43648

Bringing this topic up from the dead as I was looking for a way to remove the heater core loop. I know I can't remove it but has anyone done the hole mod? Like remove the nipples, tap and plug the holes.

 

[Ross]

Vwsaabvt did the hole modification on his thermostat housing.

 

[David]

Vwsaabvt did the hole modification on his thermostat housing.

The real question is ut performing correctly?

 

[Ross]

After analyzing the LSJ water cooling system, I see no reason why the thermostat modification wouldn't work. It basically bypasses the cabin heater, and loops the water the same way the water heater would have, but the new bypass loop is a few inches away from the thermostat. So the thermostat will respond a little bit slower with the drilled bypass system.
You could PM Vwsaabvt, and see if he will respond to this thread... He hasn't posted on the forum for a few months.

 

[David]

After analyzing the LSJ water cooling system, I see no reason why the thermostat modification wouldn't work. It basically bypasses the cabin heater, and loops the water the same way the water heater would have, but the new bypass loop is a few inches away from the thermostat. So the thermostat will respond a little bit slower with the drilled bypass system.
You could PM Vwsaabvt, and see if he will respond to this thread... He hasn't posted on the forum for a few months.

Great another model on the list. Just want to confirm I have the idea correct. I attached a picture of what I will need to do.

 

[Ross]

Yes, your drawing looks correct. A slower responding thermostat also means a slower responding oil cooler, as there is no coolant flow thru the oil cooler until the thermostat opens. I wonder if @Vwsaabvt has watched his temperature gauge to see how much slower it is.

 

[David]

Yes, your drawing looks correct. A slower responding thermostat also means a slower responding oil cooler, as there is no coolant flow thru the oil cooler until the thermostat opens. I wonder if @Vwsaabvt has watched his temperature gauge to see how much slower it is.

Wouldn't the thermostat be open by the time the oil needs cooling already?

 

[Ross]

If you drill and cap the thermostat housing, you are delaying the opening of the thermostat... for both the oil and coolant. Maybe leave that modification until after we hear back from Vwsaabvt.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

You could PM Vwsaabvt, and see if he will respond to this thread... He hasn't posted on the forum for a few months.

I'm still here reading almost every day, just don't post much.

I never ran it in the goblin any other way so I have nothing to compare to. It may delay opening the thermostat a little since your hot flow isn't coming out of the head and passing over the bottom of the thermostat itself before going to the water pump suction.

Cruising around town engine temp is always around 185-190

The only time I had issues with engine temp (climbing to 220 not sure if its actually an issue) on the interstate while cruising at normal speeds, but temps would come back down as soon as I got back on the throttle aggressively for a little bit. I'm not sure if the thermostat is closing because the flow in slightly changed and the little bit of extra heat out of the head is creating enough heat to reopen the thermostat or if it is another issue. I didn't drive it at all this summer since I tore it apart for a turbo swap.
I also don't know if my radiator fan ever turns on because all I can hear is the heat exchanger fan, I'll dig into it further once I get time this year to maybe get my car back together but I've got a long way to go and a lot of procrastination to get through.
Sorry if this seems like rambling, it's late and I'm having a hard time converting my thoughts to text... I may be overthinking it or under-thinking it?

I know Towerdog, Fozda, Robinjo, and a few others have done the same mod, but I haven't seen anyone comment on having problems with theirs.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The heater core loop is just another cooling loop to keep radiator temperatures in check - if you live in the desert.

 

[Dale E]

You can use freeze plugs on your heater loop instead of extra work tapping and plugging them. Been that way on my Stalker V6 for 20 years now. You want the thermostat to stay closed to heat up the engine quicker then open to keep temperature regulated. The oil should heat up nearly the same rate as the water so I wouldn't worry about the oil cooler function. Make sure your thermostat has the jiggle valve or drill an 1/8th inch hole for continuous flow through system to help keep air pockets out. You could add a heater core into the system for more cooling if desired. Or use the heater loop for your new water to oil cooler tank.

 

[David]

Snice its kind of the same subject, dont like creating new threads if

The heater core loop is just another cooling loop to keep radiator temperatures in check - if you live in the desert.

Definitely dont live in the desert but im in NJ and gets pretty hot out on the track in summer.

 

[David]

You can use freeze plugs on your heater loop instead of extra work tapping and plugging them. Been that way on my Stalker V6 for 20 years now. You want the thermostat to stay closed to heat up the engine quicker then open to keep temperature regulated. The oil should heat up nearly the same rate as the water so I wouldn't worry about the oil cooler function. Make sure your thermostat has the jiggle valve or drill an 1/8th inch hole for continuous flow through system to help keep air pockets out. You could add a heater core into the system for more cooling if desired. Or use the heater loop for your new water to oil cooler tank.

Was thinking of use that loop for something else but I have the thermostat housing that has the ports for the oil cooler already. So what I get put of this conversation. Is that doing this mod is the same as leaving the loop.

Also snice we are on the topic of coolant and thermostat housing. Like I said i have the housing that has ports for the oil cooler. Does anyone know where you can get one?

I searched everywhere and no one lists one. GM has it has discontinued.

 

[Robinjo]

I know Towerdog, Fozda, Robinjo, and a few others have done the same mod, but I haven't seen anyone comment on having problems with theirs.

I haven’t done it yet. Planning for the winter project.