V1 David's Track ,street goblin - in NJ

[David]

For comparison (2007 SC/SS with 144K)


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Wow nice and clean

 

[Briann1177]

That's because the SC doesn't use direct injection. The only way to get them that clean is media blast.

 

[David]

That's because the SC doesn't use direct injection. The only way to get them that clean is media blast.

Yep that my plan hopefully I can use it with my small compressor

 

[David]

So I have a quick question for the guys that want a little crazy on cleaning and Prepping the engine to be painted so that's my next step how did you guys close all the ports so you can power wash engine so then you can go at it with the wire wheel I have a little of ocd so I want engine to be pretty clean before I paint

Because my thought was to use painters tape or Gorilla tape but I think the power washer would take the tape off even if I don't point at it any idea's

 

[Briann1177]

I left the manifolds on for pressure washing. Use a plastic bag and tape to cover the throttle body and exhaust.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Just took the old gaskets and used them for templates and made a couple of plywood block off plates. Worked out really well. These are just the two for the intake and exhaust manifolds.

 

[David]

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Just took the old gaskets and used them for templates and made a couple of plywood block off plates. Worked out really well. These are just the two for the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Great idea for both manifolds but how about the any other port like the fuel injector,or turbo oil feed?

I was thinking in maybe like some silicone plugs like the ones you use for powder coating

 

[dperkins]

Great idea for both manifolds but how about the any other port like the fuel injector,or turbo oil feed?

I was thinking in maybe like some silicone plugs like the ones you use for powder coating

What I did was take small bits of paper, wad them into whatever needed to be covered (plugs, intakes, exhausts, fuel lines, etc, and then I covered that in painters tape. When I took it off after about 4 cycles of engine stripper/heavy duty degreaser and water, everything was dry.

 

[ctuinstra]

I had pressure washed mine before I really stripped it down so much of it was covered already. Mine wasn't really too greasy, it just had a lot of corrosion on it. I spent hours with a die grinder with a wire brush wheel on it hitting everything I could. You can't get into the deepest cracks and crevasses. I taped everything with blue painters tape and it worked really well.

Before paining I washed it all with copious amounts of Eastwoods Paint Prep. I bought a quart of it and used the spray gun to wash it down while brushing it in and rinsing it off. The painter tape held up well even with the cleaner. I plugged the threaded holes with pieces of protection foam (not styrofoam), although that was kind of a waste of time because I chased every hole afterwards with a tap just to clean them up.

 

[David]

So a little quick update I walnut blasted my intake valves and that carbon was really on there it took me 3 hrs to get them nice and spotless but it is worth it the picture does not make it show how really clean they are, now I have to see how to clean the engine to prep for paint not sure what color I'm between red or blue for the frame which I would paint valve cover same color

 

[Briann1177]

The valves turned out really good. Looks like new.

 

[David]

So a quick update on my progress I been cleaning engine for 3 days it's almost ready for paint just a little more elbow grease and paint time what sucks is after that I have to do the same for the trans

 

[ctuinstra]

Looks good!

 

[David]

Ok so im bringing this bluid thread back from the dead. I started back in 2017 bluiding one and shortly after disassembly of the cobalt. I ran into some issues and had to sale everything.

Well fast forward till today I got a delivery of 261 which I would be the 3rd owner. Seems to be built pretty good.Original owner looks like he didn't cut any corners.Second owner fix some of the little gremlins.

Now I will take a lot of it apart cause my OCD likes to kick in and I will start tweaking some stuff up. I have already come up with a plan for a digital - Probably 2 screens. So this is where I'm going to start posting everything and trust me guys. I will be asking a lot of questions.

In the process of going the Montana route since that was part of the original issue I was going to have snice I'm in NJ building.

 

[Rttoys]

Cool. Glad you have one in the end.

 

[David]

Trying to slove some electric connection that I would like to clean up.

1. Red and brown plug on diverside labeled driver rad fan has a blue and white wire. White is still attached and the blue was cut from the plug and attached to another blue wire going to a different harness back to the radiator. Is this correct? Seems wrong to me.

2. Have a two map sensors, one is bolted to the blockand one is just hanging around. I have an LSJ turbo swap. Does one get shut off with HPTUNERS?

 

[Ross]

The stock Cobalt has 2 pressure sensors, MAP and TMAP. The one with an extra wire is the Temperature & MAP one.

The stock Cobalt could run the 2 fans slowly at 6V each, or fast at 12V each. When used in the Goblin, we only run the 1 radiator fan when the PCM requests the fast mode. That blue wire is probably 12V+ when in fast mode... add a ground wire, and the fan should work. You can request the fan on, in HP Tuners, to test the system.

 

[David]

The stock Cobalt has 2 pressure sensors, MAP and TMAP. The one with an extra wire is the Temperature & MAP one.

The stock Cobalt could run the 2 fans slowly at 6V each, or fast at 12V each. When used in the Goblin, we only run the 1 radiator fan when the PCM requests the fast mode. That blue wire is probably 12V+ when in fast mode... add a ground wire, and the fan should work. You can request the fan on, in HP Tuners, to test the system.

Excellent so the radiator fan has the ground to the frame in the front. So I can cut the plug out, and add a weather thight plug just for the 12v.

As for the map sensors, both have 3 wires

 

[David]

So searched all over and it seems like there is multiple ways but not sure what has lasted. I want to change out the plastic fuel line from the pump to my filter. Everything after the filter has stainless lines.

The issue I see and read about is the nipple coming out the pump doesn't cooperate with any push fitting.
Wouldn't mind changing the filter for a better ones that I can AN fittings directly.

 

[David]

Ok so I found another thing that doesn't make sense. The boost solenoid is still connected to the power and one side to vacuum.

Is it correct or should I disconnect it from the power and vacuum?