V1 2.2L LAP Turbo Build

[JSATX]

I'm not sure that would bother me. It may lighten up some when you hone it.

What does impress me is the mileage on these engines and the cross hatching still being visible.

I thought the same thing. There’s nothing to indicate it’s ever been opened up. Usually you’ll see silicone where it doesn’t belong, or at least grease pen markings and such. I really am impressed with this series of engines. Especially since they were such an low end/economy offering

 

[George]

I do not see an issue.
Brad

 

[Ross]

If you teflon coat the sides of your pistons, some of it will transfer to the low spots in the cylinder, reducing blow by the rings.

 

[George]

Check out Line2Linecoatings. Like their product the best of any thing that I have used.

Brad

 

[JSATX]

One of the goals of this build was to remove the balance shafts and mechanical pump.

There’s basically two ways to run an electric water pump with our setup. The first is to remove the thermostat and use an electrically controlled water pump which bases flow on water temp. This would probably be the better and easier setup. But to get the pump and controller from Davies Craig it’s $400.

I decided to start with just the pump, but set it up so that I can either run it whenever the key is on, or I can add the controller if necessary later.

I’ll do that by removing the water pipe that spans the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold. I turned two adapters and used Weld-on 16AN fittings on the water pump housing and thermostat housing. It’ll run whenever the engine is on, the thermostat will regulate it, pretty much the same as stock except now not as much parasitic loss on the engine.

 

[deuc224]

Justin, any reason you went from a 2.2 to a 2.2?

 

[JSATX]

Justin, any reason you went from a 2.2 to a 2.2?

The car is all set up for the 2.2L, and the later models are wired differently so it would be pretty difficult to swap to the other engines. Compared to say the 2.0S/C engine, once the internals are being replaced with forged components you might as well take advantage of the extra 200cc.

I already have the tune all set up, and the main reason for the build is not to swap the motor, it’s to build a bigger and stronger turbo, while being able to continue driving the current setup.

 

[deuc224]

Ah makes a lot of sense now. What turbo are you going with? Not gonna lie, I didnt really want the turbo SS, I really wanted a supercharged one because of the whine it gives, i know the HP potential is better with the turbo but man that supercharged whine is a sound of beauty. Everyone talked about how rare the turbo ones are and they had one here with low miles so i just got it. Im going with the 6758 turbo cuz it has close to stock spool but doesnt give out in the upper RPM range.

 

[JSATX]

Ah makes a lot of sense now. What turbo are you going with? Not gonna lie, I didnt really want the turbo SS, I really wanted a supercharged one because of the whine it gives, i know the HP potential is better with the turbo but man that supercharged whine is a sound of beauty. Everyone talked about how rare the turbo ones are and they had one here with low miles so i just got it. Im going with the 6758 turbo cuz it has close to stock spool but doesnt give out in the upper RPM range.

Yeah man also on these smaller engines the supercharger is just going to give a better driving experience even if it doesn’t flow as much. I have a Garrett T3/T04e 57 trim, .63A/R should max out around 450 and be perfectly happy down to around 350 where I want to be. My boost controller has two stages so it’ll have a ~325hp “standard” and then I’m gonna wire up a “push to pass” button on the steering wheel to let another 75hp or so through!

 

[deuc224]

Thats a good idea to have. I dont anticipate needed max boost all the time either, im gonna have to steal that idea from you lol.

 

[JSATX]

It’s pretty commonly done, I can’t really take any credit. This is the one I bought.

Turbosmart e-Boost Street Boost Controllers TS-0302-1002

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[deuc224]

Nice, yeah Im breaking down my car Thursday morning.

 

[JSATX]

The problem with public forums like this is I have no option but to accept how utterly horrible I am at finishing projects. I'm forced to see the dates when I started some 18 months ago or so. But here we are again, I've picked it back up and made some progress.

Just received a big package containing full upper and lower gasket sets, new crank bearings and new rod bearings. The engine girdle was just drilled and tapped tonight for the turbo oil return line which is 5/8" hose into 1/2npt into girdle. I installed the ARP head stud kit, sure is pricey but **** they make some nice hardwear.

The new Wiseco piston rings are getting fitted to the individual cylinders. Gapping the top rings to .017 and bottom to .018. The new rods and pistons sure are pretty, and have about a 900hp rating!

I have no clue why the main crankshaft bearings are so extremely expensive from parts places, they are over $100 from Rockauto (which I've always found to be extremely competitive price-wise) and only about $40 from ZZP (which is typically quite high!).

The balance shafts have been removed and the OTTP plugs are about to be ordered. I called the guy and asked about front plugs as they only offered the rear plugs because most people keep the idlers for the water pump chain. But it turns out they do make front plugs too, and they are now on the website.

Next up on the order list is the ZZP 82# valve springs and LNF valves. Once again parts place is 2x-3x times the price for the valves compared to ZZP.

I'm still on the fence about buying an aluminum flywheel. I think I'll end up going for it, my concern is the tune will retard the derivative of the acceleration curve possibly making the expensive mod pointless. I'm going to go with the Exedy stage 2 three puck clutch. More cleaning and painting of the engine this weekend if it doesn't rain, I'll try and get some pics up then.

 

[JSATX]

Focusing on cleaning and paint next, working from the oil pan up. 1 hour soak in ZEP aluminum safe heavy degreaser and then about three more spent scrubbing with all different sorts of brushes. All the mating surfaces polished with scotchbrite until no residue left. Looking **** fine for a 10 year old engine if I do say so myself.

 

[JSATX]

More goodies arriving. 8000+ RPM here we come.

 

[QuantumFluxuation]

Hey JSATX. Do you have a picture of the modification you did on the Saab intake?

 

[JSATX]

Hey JSATX. Do you have a picture of the modification you did on the Saab intake?

There’s a little bit more info in post #381 of my build log, only mod needed is MAP sensor mounting and hole. I would take another picture but it’s all taped up for cleaning and paint right now.

 

[QuantumFluxuation]

There’s a little bit more info in post #381 of my build log, only mod needed is MAP sensor mounting and hole. I would take another picture but it’s all taped up for cleaning and paint right now.

Yeah I saw that just was looking for a reference. No big deal. Appreciate all the help you give around here.

 

[JSATX]

Today installed new clevite crank bearings And the crank. Using OTTP reusable main bolts. Also Installed The OTTP balance shaft eliminators. It’s kinda funny they sell them as if they’re removable...they ain’t. Had to beat the absolute **** out of them to seat all the way.

 

[JSATX]

Gapped piston rings for the wisecos today. Man that was more tedious than I expected. I wish I would have bought a dedicated ring grinder but the file method works ok too.

Surprisingly the 2nd (lower) ring gap was quite large out of the box. The wiseco formula indicated I needed 17 thou top gap and 19 thou lower gap. Top gap out of the box was 13 and lower was 22 but apparently that’s not a big deal.