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Hiiimason

New Member
H
Hey all,

First time posting here I've been busy for the last 5 years building this. Of course a lot in life has happened I bought and renovated 2 houses, had 2 kids, been working full time so this has turned into more of a long learning experience/ hobby. I took the courses they offered on HP Academy and I have background as a commercial electrician so I have turned my fair share of rats nests into beautiful works of art. I originally started because I wanted to put a big ol side mount where the fuse box is and started extending some wires by splicing and decided I didn't really like splicing so I ran all new Tefzel from ProwireUSA and sourced all the connectors and terminals which was not very fun, a lot of trial and error has gone into this and I have documented everything, I have a nice spreadsheet that shows where everything is going, where it comes from circuit numbers etc. and everything is labeled with heat shrink tubing. This is my third attempt the previous two were functional, but I wasn’t thrilled with the aesthetics, so I’ve been refining it. Since I went from building a street car to a track car, I stripped out non essentials like the ABS and airbag systems, which cleaned things up nicely.

Recently I hit a roadblock when I found out HP Tuners can’t disable VATS on the newer E69 ECU. Had a locksmith cut and program a new key, but no dice. Online workarounds like the resistor trick seem limited to the older P12 LSJ ECUs, and I haven’t had much luck there either. I don't live close to a GM dealership so taking it in won't be an option not to mention they wouldn't touch this with the modified wiring harness.

Since the stock harness dream is fading (GM really nailed the "anti DIY" coffin shut) I’m set on a standalone ECU and PMU from ECU Masters but would like to get this started now to break in the new LDK motor and F40 trans with fresh fluids while I save up. Any tips or tricks you experts can share to get this thing running would be greatly appreciated. I hear the Tech2 with SPS is able to disable or relearn but I don't want to spend money on that if I'm just going to go with a standalone later. Posting some photos of the progress so far, And before you ask all connections are good, I used original connectors and terminals sourced all over from TE connectivity, Mouser and ProwireUSA I've tested everything before and after installation and again 2 other times just to be sure it's 100% the security system.
 

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Brian74
Don't feel bad. I started my build back in 2017. I just got my VX Diag up and working again. I am using it on an old Laptop running an older Windows version The newer VX Diag firmware seems to work much better as I had it up and working again pretty quickly this time. As far as the SPS capability, I am not sure. From what I remember, I was worried about the VATS because I bought a BCM/ECM out of a salvage car, but they wouldn't sell me the key or switch due to recall. All the testing I did and power cycles apparently somehow supposedly allowed the VATS to "relearn" the key module. I am in the same boat with a new LDK crate motor. If you need me to check anything, I can run up my VX Diag and look at the SPS mode. With all of the electrical stuff you have done, I would just recommend buying one. It is great for testing as you get full CAN access to every switch, relay, and transistor on the BCM. Not sure the link below will work but you want the GDS 2 VXDIAG VCX Nano. Well worth $145 alone just for the diagnostic capability; and especially down the road if you encounter any bugs later on. Page 13 of my build log was where I started running the VXDiag Module.

20251030_190337.jpg
 
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