Best Way to Paint Parts?

[KingChuck24]

So now that we have received the chassis and are about to ship things off to powder coating we have a few questions. Firstly the best way to paint the parts that need to be painted. The currently list we have is just the one from the stage 1 assembly thread:

• Donor Parts
  • pedal box (also the clutch pedal bracket on manual cars)
  • steering shaft
  • fuel filler neck (must be trimmed - see notes below this list)
  • subframe
• Kit Parts
  • sheet metal: floor, firewall and front bulkhead
  • fuel tank and pump retainer ring (we recommend a flat or textured paint)
  • floor support strap
  • battery hold down angle and hardware
  • engine and transmission mounting plates
  • hardware (to prevent bolts and nuts from rusting)

We are confused about the hardware part. Does that mean all the nuts and bolts of the kit or what does it refer to? We were looking at an electric spray gun on Amazon and some Rust-Oleum flat black enamel paint, 1 quart (will that be enough?). Also do we need any primers and if so what should we look at getting, any top protective coats?

Lastly what are some of the looked over things on your goblin that you wish you had painted and it might be a little hard to paint now.

Thanks!

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

am I the only one who powdercoated both the subframe the rear lower control arms?!?!?

I think it was worth the extra effort

 

[KingChuck24]

am I the only one who powdercoated both the subframe the rear lower control arms?!?!?

I think it was worth the extra effort

View attachment 35410

Wow, I must admit those look EXTREMELY good. We will for sure look into that. Did the powder coating place make you remove all of the bushings and stuff beforehand or did you send it in with everything in there?

 

[Rttoys]

It’s whatever is your personal preference. since my rear control arms were aluminum, I powder coated the front control arms aluminum too. Some nuts/bolts I painted to make them disappear, some I kept untouched to contrast the colors. It’s all up to you.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

Wow, I must admit those look EXTREMELY good. We will for sure look into that. Did the powder coating place make you remove all of the bushings and stuff beforehand or did you send it in with everything in there?

yes I removed the bushings with a cheap harbor freight puller kit, new bushings are not easy to put back in but I got it with the help of a local shop that had a real press

 

[escapepilot]

I powder coated a large amount of parts to match the chassis color then powder coated a few more satin black to “hide” them. I used Sharkhide on bare aluminum to prevent oxidation and also used it on some steel bolts after polishing with a wire wheel in the bench grinder. Some Cobalt parts that were larger, I painted with rattle can Krylon Rust Tough.

Powder coating is the most durable. Painting is probably the least. Great thing about Sharkhide is that it is a wipe or brush on so easy to touch up.

 

[escapepilot]

Donor Parts

• • pedal box (also the clutch pedal bracket on manual cars) painted
  • steering shaft painted
  • fuel filler neck (must be trimmed - see notes below this list) painted
  • subframe powder coated satin black
• Kit Parts
  • sheet metal: floor bed liner, firewall matching powder coat and front bulkhead painted
  • fuel tank and pump retainer ring (we recommend a flat or textured paint) powder coated satin black
  • floor support strap matching powder coat
  • battery hold down angle and hardware painted but should have powder coated for durability
  • engine and transmission mounting plates matching powder coat
  • hardware (to prevent bolts and nuts from rusting) Sharkhide

 

[jirwin]

Just to add my $0.02, I had good results with tractor paint. Very durable, but takes a while to dry. I used that on anything I didn't powdercoat.