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V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
On the side of the transmission mount, drivers side.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
My transmission side mount looks quite a bit different than @Desert Sasqwatch 's...but there's a conveniently located extra hole. I'll drill that out down to bare metal, get the paint a washer's width down to bare metal, and install a bolt, washer pair, lock washer, and nut. I'll have the grounds between the washers.
@Sebnuts you were right, I checked and the gasket is right there . You guys must be laughing in your beers at me, go right ahead!
@Sebnuts you were right, I checked and the gasket is right there . You guys must be laughing in your beers at me, go right ahead!
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Sqwatch is an F40 transmission.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
My transmission ground location was on the rear side of that mount. It broke off due to heavy powder coating so I did something similar to you. I drilled a hole and put a bolt and nut through the hole. Then, I also had a secondary nut to hold down the ground cables. That way, when you have to pull the engine (and you will) it's just a wrench or socket to remove 1 nut. Not a two tools to remove it, that are gets a bit tight with everything in place.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
Looking at another build thread (@Markm ) , I noticed the halo construction looks different than on my older chasssis - and arguably safer. Was this a custom order, or is this how they build them now?
I've been considering chassis mods similar to what's highlighted in the photo. Does the existing powder-coating present difficulties for a welder/fabricator? I would most likely just rattle-can the new pieces in gloss black.
I've been considering chassis mods similar to what's highlighted in the photo. Does the existing powder-coating present difficulties for a welder/fabricator? I would most likely just rattle-can the new pieces in gloss black.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
I've a pile of pipes, fittings, v-band stuff, etc. to plumb the turbo. This being an early kit the parts provided are different than what is shipped now, plus my kit was spec'd for a2a intercooling and I'm going with a2w. So I am laying everything out to see what I might need and what I have that's useful, etc. So far so good, and this got me thinking about airboxes and air intakes.
I read some of the stuff on @Brian74 's build - dude has metalworking skills that I can only dream about, and the work on his car is (at least to me) incredible. He did an airbox mounted on the pax side of the car, here is a pic from his build thread that I stole:
I was thinking about something different - a ram air intake to an inline filter with a bellmouth opening, bracketed to the roll hoop, either in similar position on the pax side, or maybe between the driver and pax up top. I am just starting to think about this, so no design yet, but some sample parts that come to mind would be:
Cool looking factor aside ("sir, do you have a jet engine on your roll cage?") I think this would be effective at pushing cold air to the turbo, in a reasonably compact package, and it doesn't look too complex to put together. Wondering if others have considered this approach, and what folks think about this idea. I recognize this could be really noisy, but this is a track car not a street vehicle, and I use hearing protection when I'm on the track,.
I read some of the stuff on @Brian74 's build - dude has metalworking skills that I can only dream about, and the work on his car is (at least to me) incredible. He did an airbox mounted on the pax side of the car, here is a pic from his build thread that I stole:
I was thinking about something different - a ram air intake to an inline filter with a bellmouth opening, bracketed to the roll hoop, either in similar position on the pax side, or maybe between the driver and pax up top. I am just starting to think about this, so no design yet, but some sample parts that come to mind would be:
Cool looking factor aside ("sir, do you have a jet engine on your roll cage?") I think this would be effective at pushing cold air to the turbo, in a reasonably compact package, and it doesn't look too complex to put together. Wondering if others have considered this approach, and what folks think about this idea. I recognize this could be really noisy, but this is a track car not a street vehicle, and I use hearing protection when I'm on the track,.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Be aware that having the air filter in moving/turbulent air may make maf tuning more difficult and will certainly make it necessary. Tray and get as much straight length before and after the maf installation and might want to include a honeycomb air straightener if you can't get much straight length.
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
This is an excellent point - I've considered this just a little bit but still need to work through it. If you look at the airflow through an open wheel race car (in the following a rendering of a Lotus F1 car from ScarbsF1), there is an area that's relatively straight, as the tube runs toward the engine from the ingestion point. I was thinking off putting the MAF sensor there, where the green arrow:
On our cars, the area from roll hoop to charge air inlet on the turbo is shorter. If I make the drop steeper then I can run a straight piece, including MAF pipe, across the engine. Does that seem like a reasonable starting point?
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
12 inches in front of and 12 inches behind the MAF with straight tube would be close to ideal to get most of the airflow as straight as possible. Your idea has more straight tubing than most other current Goblin installations. Give it a try and see how it works. Worst thing that can happen is to try something else if it doesn't work the first time! I like the concept!
ccgillett
Well-Known Member
- ccgillett Well-Known Member
That's actually reassuring, as my "design idea" was "make everything as straight as possible". I'll mock something up and see what happens. I guess I should do a full-on CFD analysis and do the math on my tube runs, etc. But let me try this first and get some baseline ideas/info.
