V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC

[ccgillett]

Perhaps putting the lugnuts on the studs, cutting them and removing the lug nuts. That way you can chase the threads? Just a thought.

Good to see you back.

Thanks so much, happy to be wrenching again. Now the next trick is to fully retire so I can do this ALL the time!

My plan is exactly what you described. Measure 18 times, run the lug down, tape off and cut (3" mini grinder with a metal cutoff wheel). Make several cuts against the same kerf and spray down the stud with water between cuts to avoid overheating the stud. Remove tape, wire brush to make sure there are no shavings stuck in the threads, possibly use a metal file to bevel the new edge, and then finally back off the lug to clean everything up.

 

[ccgillett]

Tonight's head scratch: Soft brake pedal, no caliper engagement. Everything is plumbed up and all fittings are dry, no observable leaks. I filled the reservoir ALL the way up, and starting from right rear worked my way around the car. Opened the bleeder screw at the corner, pump the brakes several times and observe fluid flow. Close the bleeder, lather rinse repeat around the car, Fluid present at all 4 corners. What's bugging me is that the pedal isn't firming up and I can appreciate any caliper engagement on any corner. Almost like it's leaking but I'm not losing fluid and I can't find any evidence on or around the car of leaks. Anybody seen this before?

In other news, it's finally starting to look like something. After doing all the math, talking to lots of folks, buying a ton of parts, and finally getting it all together, I had to see if the tire/wheel combo fits as predicted before I cut those hub studs. Pleased to say it all worked out. I am really pleased with how it fits and looks, and with the possible performance when I get this thing on track.

Obligatory photos....

 

[Gtstorey]

Are you bleeding the brakes or just opening it up and pumping?

 

[Rauq]

^this
If you want to bleed the brakes by yourself, get a pressure bleeder. You'll still need a helper to bleed the clutch.

 

[ccgillett]

Are you bleeding the brakes or just opening it up and pumping?

I had ASS-U-ME-d that just getting bubble-free flow through all 4 bleeders would at least prove out "functionality". I'll do a proper 2-man bleed process when the Fabulous Daughter is home this weekend (she's my garage buddy). I won't worry further until that's been done. I've done a lot brake bleeds on my other cars, I was just being lazy here.

Tonight I'll get the driver's seat temporarily installed to facilitate this process, then on to trimming the studs and getting the wheels sitting flush on the spacers.

Now I just gotta find the clutch bleeder, which seems to be more-or-less under the fusebox?

 

[Gtstorey]

If the master cylinder was empty (not the reservoir) it can be very hard to get all of the air out of it. It's the highest point in the system and can occasionally require bench bleeding before installing.

 

[ccgillett]

If the master cylinder was empty (not the reservoir) it can be very hard to get all of the air out of it. It's the highest point in the system and can occasionally require bench bleeding before installing.

That's an excellent point. I will educate myself about bench bleeding if the usual 2-man approach doesn't produce results. Thanks for mentioning!

 

[ccgillett]

Lots of progress on the car, I'm down to 26 items remaining before I can attempt first drive. Some of those tasks could be challenging, like assembling the shifter and attaching the cables while other items are trivial, like installing the battery.

Today's challenge is plumbing the A2W intercooler heat exchanger. I have a Type 116 heat exchanger (purchased separately from Frozen Boost, as the car was originally planned to be A2A), and I have the heat exchanger hardware from DF (L13E, L23D, and L23E bags, etc). When I tried to mock up the mount rails against against the heat exchanger itself they seem too long. Looking at the photos in Adam's album, it looks like the rails were intended to run inside the frame of the heat exchanger, and that will never fit in this case. I am wondering if I can just use a plastic spacer, thick washer, etc. to take up the gap and attach the rails to the outside of the frame. Anybody seen this before? First 2 photos show the extra length with one tab of the rail on the inside of the exchanger's frame. The gap is about 3/4" inside to outside, and about 1/2" from the outside if I put the opposite tab flush with the frame. No evidence of spacers in Adam's photos, aside from a lock washer/flat washer pair on each side.

There are no threaded holes on the frame cross bar to which the heat exchanger rails attach. My plan was to install rivnuts to accept the threaded machine screws as they're not long enough to go all the way through the square tube, washer, nut, etc. Seem reasonable?

 

[David]

Lots of progress on the car, I'm down to 26 items remaining before I can attempt first drive. Some of those tasks could be challenging, like assembling the shifter and attaching the cables while other items are trivial, like installing the battery.

Today's challenge is plumbing the A2W intercooler heat exchanger. I have a Type 116 heat exchanger (purchased separately from Frozen Boost, as the car was originally planned to be A2A), and I have the heat exchanger hardware from DF (L13E, L23D, and L23E bags, etc). When I tried to mock up the mount rails against against the heat exchanger itself they seem too long. Looking at the photos in Adam's album, it looks like the rails were intended to run inside the frame of the heat exchanger, and that will never fit in this case. I am wondering if I can just use a plastic spacer, thick washer, etc. to take up the gap and attach the rails to the outside of the frame. Anybody seen this before? First 2 photos show the extra length with one tab of the rail on the inside of the exchanger's frame. The gap is about 3/4" inside to outside, and about 1/2" from the outside if I put the opposite tab flush with the frame. No evidence of spacers in Adam's photos, aside from a lock washer/flat washer pair on each side.

There are no threaded holes on the frame cross bar to which the heat exchanger rails attach. My plan was to install rivnuts to accept the threaded machine screws as they're not long enough to go all the way through the square tube, washer, nut, etc. Seem reasonable?

View attachment 57486View attachment 57487
View attachment 57488

Spacers will work if all your trying to do is fill in the gap.

 

[ccgillett]

Spacers will work if all your trying to do is fill in the gap.

Yeah, not super happy....I'll need longer screws and nuts to hold the thing together, grumble.

 

[comegetjoe]

If you are a welder, cut the bracket down so it fits inside of the H.E. and weld the bracket back together.

 

[ccgillett]

Driver's seat went in last weekend, looks like I have an R2D2 passenger....

 

[Rttoys]

Spacers would work, but you could also cut and bend the bracket as needed.

no reason why rivnuts wouldn’t work there on the frame.

 

[ccgillett]

If you are a welder, cut the bracket down so it fits inside of the H.E. and weld the bracket back together.

Good idea, but I am so not a welder LOL

Spacers would work, but you could also cut and bend the bracket as needed.

no reason why rivnuts wouldn’t work there on the frame.

I will look into bending the brackets, I'm a bit concerned about damaging the heat exchanger, but worth looking into.

I think it likely I'll got the spacer route on one side, and mount the front side flush, and put a spacer on the rear.

 

[Rttoys]

I wouldn’t bend anything on the HE, just the bracket that attaches it to the goblin. You don’t want to potentially cause a leak.