V1 Communication Codes & DTCs - No Crank, No Start - 2009 LAP 2.2L - Please Don't Kill Me

[Boyes50]

Hi Everyone,

First let me state: Please don't kill me. This isn't a DF Kit Car, BUT, I've been quietly using, reading and following these forums for YEARs as the Ecotec crowd is useless for anything other than "How do I make the car louder". So, that being said, I have TONS of experience over the years with Ecotec wiring harnesses, and even built my own standalone harness for my last racecar. I am currently building an oval track racecar out of a 2009 Pontiac G5 XFE, 2.2L LAP with F23. I have, however, encountered some strange GMLAN codes that are current, however I am unsure if these are related to, and/or, if they could be causing my Passkey, No Crank, and No Start Symptons. If this is not welcome on the forum PLEASE tell me and I'll remove it, it just seems you all have great information with manipulating OEM Harnesses like I am.

I'll attach a couple photos, so you know I'm building something actually and not wasting your time.

Car was running perfectly fine and had no issues. Disconnected the battery, connected a master battery disconnect required by rules, finished a couple things, and reconnected it at the end of day to drive the car out. Car would not start, Security Light is flashing and solid intermittently, and car will not crank. Attempted Passkey relearn procedure, Lock light will not go out after 10 minutes (Flashes and Remains Steady for over an hour with key on). Attempted with 2 Chip Keys, both of which worked fine before this. When turning the key to the crank position, the dash goes out (normal), and there is an audible click from the BCM. Once I return the key to the run position, the dash returns lit up with the Engine Light and Security Light illuminated. As of right now the car is not tuned, and I was considering using HPTuners/EFILive to shut off VATS since this is a race-only car, but am unsure if this will help with these Lost Communication Codes, and/or if these are the culprit as well. Pull codes from OBD, have the following Current DTCs where it won't start.

- U2105 - Lost Communication with ECM
- U2107 - Lost Communication with BCM
- U2113 - Lost Communcation with SDM
- U2129 - Lost Communication with RFA
- C0845 - Device Ignition 1 Circuit
- B1325 - Device Power 1 Circuit
- B3055 - No Transponder Modulation
- B3935 - Transponder Authentication Error

A couple things to note. I am unsure if some of these DTCs were present before the No Start symptom started. It is possible these U-Codes were all present when the car was running fine before. They are however listed as current DTCs. The ignition switch and RFID Scanner have been moved behind an aluminum dash panel that the key goes through. I am wondering if the Aluminum could be blocking the RFID from reading? I did however put the second key behind the aluminum directly up against the reader/black collar and no change. All BCM and ECM/Underhood Fuses are good and have correct power. When jumping the crank relay, I can make the car crankover (Of Course) but it won't start. I am weary of tuning the car as I have no intentions of tuning the car other than to delete this VATS issue, but I am worried that I have bigger problems than only Anti-Theft given these Lost Communication codes. Battery is brand new, connections are clean and tight, system voltage is 12.5. Airbags are obviously removed as is the Security Module. Nothing from a wiring standpoint has changed other than disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. "Should" the car still be able to run with a communcations error across the GMLAN lines?

Any help is appreciated. I have access to all of the wiring schematics from Mitchell1, but these GMLAN and Lost Communication Codes are new to me and I am unsure how to diagnose. Is it possible these codes would clear after the car was running and the Anti-Theft is simply causing this whole issue? Thanks.

 

[Rauq]

Far from an expert on these topics, but I think you could start with one of the standard first Goblin no-start checks: when you turn the key to on, does the throttle body move?

I've looked at a few of your DTCs in Alldata, and while I wouldn't assume they're the same between an 06 LSJ and an 09 LAP, I also wouldn't assume they're completely different. Several of the DTCs do point to the GMLAN connections/issues between modules. While I wouldn't think you'd have the typical Goblin issue of GMLAN wires being cut or omitted when going through the harness, I'd imagine it's possible that something got lost in the chain somewhere. Most of the diagnostics are checking for bad modules in the chain.

I'm not sure what your sequence of events was, if you did the key relearn on only one key then the other key is probably erased from memory and thus wouldn't help you out if taped to the ignition reader. But I don't think your issue is with the key.

 

[Gtstorey]

Does Mitchell 1 have the diagnostic steps for each code?

 

[Boyes50]

Far from an expert on these topics, but I think you could start with one of the standard first Goblin no-start checks: when you turn the key to on, does the throttle body move?

I've looked at a few of your DTCs in Alldata, and while I wouldn't assume they're the same between an 06 LSJ and an 09 LAP, I also wouldn't assume they're completely different. Several of the DTCs do point to the GMLAN connections/issues between modules. While I wouldn't think you'd have the typical Goblin issue of GMLAN wires being cut or omitted when going through the harness, I'd imagine it's possible that something got lost in the chain somewhere. Most of the diagnostics are checking for bad modules in the chain.

I'm not sure what your sequence of events was, if you did the key relearn on only one key then the other key is probably erased from memory and thus wouldn't help you out if taped to the ignition reader. But I don't think your issue is with the key.

Rauq,

Thanks for the reply. That I have not checked. I know for a fact when I first turn the key on, the butterfly actuates and power gets to the throttle body, because I can hear it make an audible sound of it cycling with key on power each time it is cycled. For reference, I also have 58psi at the Fuel Rail.

I also believe my issue isn't directly related to the keys, as they are brand new and were programmed fine up until I disconnected the power. The new connections were made, and the BC 50AMP Circuit and the Main Power are now being powered and have been confirmed they are functioning. Disconnecting the 50A wire brings up the typical "Power Steering, Low Fuel" messages, and connecting it again makes these messages disappear.

Does Mitchell 1 have the diagnostic steps for each code?

It does for the B codes which I have followed as far as I can beyond "Connect Tech-2 to Terminal and complete Dealer Passkey" relearn. The U codes are the typical "Check all modules for correct functions". I struggle to believe there is an issue across the High or Low Speed LAN as they were untouched throughout the day. I guess my main confusion at this point is whether it's possible that these codes were present before and simply went unnoticed because the car was running fine at the time.

 

[Gtstorey]

I don't think it would have run before without communications with BCM/ECM. I assume you connected the disconnect at the battery and not near the fuse box? If near the fuse box you might have loose connections in the box.

I've never had it happen to me, but it's possible to have surges when disconnecting/connecting the battery causing modules to fail.

I think I would start with confirming that all of your modules are getting ignition voltage everywhere that the wiring diagrams indicate they should. A quick internet search indicates that the C0845 - Device Ignition 1 Circuit & B1325 - Device Power 1 Circuit are both low voltage errors at modules.

 

[Boyes50]

I don't think it would have run before without communications with BCM/ECM. I assume you connected the disconnect at the battery and not near the fuse box? If near the fuse box you might have loose connections in the box.

I've never had it happen to me, but it's possible to have surges when disconnecting/connecting the battery causing modules to fail.

I think I would start with confirming that all of your modules are getting ignition voltage everywhere that the wiring diagrams indicate they should. A quick internet search indicates that the C0845 - Device Ignition 1 Circuit & B1325 - Device Power 1 Circuit are both low voltage errors at modules.

GTStorey, thinking on your message made me curious to go out and check the DTCs again.

Disconnect is hooked up right near the battery. It isolates that BCM Circuit and Main Power, so when shutting off that Power Disconnect it kills the engine "In An Emergency". I'll attach an image of this for reference.

Checking the codes again, I realize that I didn't pay attention to which are "Current" and which are "History". This Snap-On code reader indicates them separately. The Codes are as follows:

CURRENT:
U2113 - SDM Comm. Issue (Airbag Module, which has been removed from Day 1, and I would assume has been present)
U2129 - RFA (Remote Function Actuator, wondering if this is for keyless entry, and since this car is base model, it's present?)
B3055 - No Transponder Modulation
B3935 - Transponder Authentication Error

HISTORY:
B1325 - Voltage (Likely from Battery Low from Excessive Testing, Key On Time)
U2107 - Loss of BCM Communication (From Disconnecting Battery Possibly?)
U2105 - Loss of ECM Communication (From Disconnecting Battery Possibly?)

I am going to push the car in tonight and check what happens when I clear all current and history codes, and start fresh. I'll charge the battery up fully, and then verify which codes return as current. If the only codes are those 4, my assumption would be that it's definitely a Passkey issue of some sort. I'll try disabling VATS next if that's the case.

 

[Gtstorey]

The code readers often will show up errors for modules that were never present, I think they just "ping" a list of possible modules and fail if they don't see one. My manual transmission car fails on a transmission controller. So yes it looks like you have a transponder problem. I've seen threads about them failing or resetting on battery disconnect also. Also if you drained the battery while messing with the car and then tried to start it, the low voltage can cause screwy things even after the battery is charged. I'll check the service manual tonight for you B3### codes.

 

[Rauq]

What happened to the C0845? That was the one that jumped out to me as closest to the core issue.

While we don't have the reputation terrible sensitivity to voltage compared to other platforms I've worked on, I'd absolutely keep a charger on this while diagnosing. Wonky voltage is absolutely a complication you don't want to deal with while troubleshooting.

 

[Boyes50]

What happened to the C0845? That was the one that jumped out to me as closest to the core issue.

While we don't have the reputation terrible sensitivity to voltage compared to other platforms I've worked on, I'd absolutely keep a charger on this while diagnosing. Wonky voltage is absolutely a complication you don't want to deal with while troubleshooting.

It has a small, lithium battery in it for racing. I would be willing to bet the long key-on diagnostics caused this code to be triggered. I will, however, clear all these codes and reconnect it to a charger tonight to recheck trouble codes and issues and report back. I would be surprised if these were to reappear, but obviously if they did then that would definitely be a major source of issues.

 

[Gtstorey]

I've heard that the lithium batteries can do weird things. You might want to consider putting a lead acid battery in to trouble shoot.

 

[Gtstorey]

B3055

 

[Gtstorey]

B3935

 

[Boyes50]

B3935

So. Tonight I swapped out to the OEM Lead Acid Battery, connected charger, cleared all codes present and stored, and checked. Anti-Theft light illuminated solid, does not go out after 10 minutes (Waited 45 to verify). These codes are now the only codes present:

P0532 - A/C Low Pressure (AC is Removed)

BCM:
B2555 - Interior Light Circuit Open (No Interior Lights)
U2113 - Safety Module Loss of Comm (Has been removed since Day 1)

Cluster:
U2113 - Safety Module Loss of Comm (Same as Above)
U2129 - Remote Function Actuator Loss of Comm (Cannot determine what function this controls? Keyless Entry which was never equipped?)

Theft:
B3055 - No Transponder Modulation

Car cranks when jumping relay, no start. Assuming spark or injectors are disabled by ECM because of Anti-Theft). At this point, my two assumptions would be:

- Theft Deterent Ring (Around Ignition Cylinder) failed / shorted and is not sending key chip signal.
OR
- Car needs a reset of Passkey and for some reason the 30-Minute user controlled isn’t working.

My plan of action is to take the car to the dealer and have them attempt a manual VATS relearn with Tech 2. If that doesn’t work I’ll either replace the Black Plastic Ring or disable VATS with HP.

Thoughts? Thanks for taking the time guys, that last diagnostic breakdown for B3055 was very helpful

 

[Gtstorey]

I don’t think the key reader is a problem since it seems to be reading but not recognize the key. If HPTuner will disable VATS for your model, I would go that route.

 

[Boyes50]

I don’t think the key reader is a problem since it seems to be reading but not recognize the key. If HPTuner will disable VATS for your model, I would go that route.

You’re thinking since the module is communicating, it should be functioning? That logic does make good sense.

I think I’ll take it to the dealer since they’re friends, and try one Tech-2 Relearn. If not, we delete VATS and hopefully that solves the problem. Luckily with it being a more modern LAP, it features an E67 Computer. I’ll be sure to post back once I have more insight.

 

[Gtstorey]

With access to a dealer Tech2, let them do the diagnostic checks in the procedures.

I don’t know exactly how sophisticated the diagnostic is but it’s saying it doesn’t recognize they key, it’s not saying it’s not reading the key. I may be putting to much into that.

 

[G Atsma]

Boyes50- See? Aren't you glad you came by? I'm sure many here are...

 

[Boyes50]

Boyes50- See? Aren't you glad you came by? I'm sure many here are...

You know, I sure am. I’ve read so much in this forum. I built a standalone harness using a ton of information from here. It’s nice when different communities come together and help. I’m staggered by how much help you’ve all been. I’ll be sure to return with results once I get it sorted

 

[k.rollin]

You know, I sure am. I’ve read so much in this forum. I built a standalone harness using a ton of information from here. It’s nice when different communities come together and help. I’m staggered by how much help you’ve all been. I’ll be sure to return with results once I get it sorted

I wouldn't be upset if you posted a build thread in the "Other Builds" sub forum. This looks cool!

 

[Boyes50]

I wouldn't be upset if you posted a build thread in the "Other Builds" sub forum. This looks cool!

I'll definitely do that. I have some great Ecotec longevity information that would be helpful for you all I'm sure, plus some interesting other tid-bits. I'll be sure to also follow the Electrical Forum and help with electrical stuff anytime I can. I also have access to all the wiring schematics for all Ecotec's which can be super helpful!