V1 Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

[Gtstorey]

You need a lot more assembly before it is going to run. The ECM is missing half of its info for it to run.

Unplugging the MAF would be better than having it plugged in but not in the airstream.

I don't know exactly where your Sensor 1 o2 sensor is mounted, but you need at least 16" of something after the sensor for it to have achance to read correctly.

 

[ah.b.normal]

@ah.b.normal was right. The brake and clutch switches were backwards. Now I can start my goblin without fear of it running me over.

Here's a video of what it's doing. I don't see any open vacuum leaks. Does it matter that the MAF is just dangling in the atmosphere? Maybe a lack of back pressure with a straight pipe exhaust and no muffler? PCV tube is not connected to anything but I don't think that would explain it either.

IIRC: A PCV valve circuit generally runs from PCV valve to a vacuum source. The other half of the circuit runs from the valve cover to the air inlet tract beyond the air cleaner and before the throttle valve. PCV valve unplugged, at the valve or the supply end, would be a direct vac leak. Unless PCV valve is completely clogged or in some way rendered non functional.

 

[Gtstorey]

IIRC: A PCV valve circuit generally runs from PCV valve to a vacuum source. The other half of the circuit runs from the valve cover to the air inlet tract beyond the air cleaner and before the throttle valve. PCV valve unplugged, at the valve or the supply end, would be a direct vac leak. Unless PCV valve is completely clogged or in some way rendered non functional.

Doesn't really matter since the MAF isn't in use, it's not metering the air anyway. But will matter once everything else is connected.

 

[ah.b.normal]

At least block the PCV tube, to see if that is a contributing a vacuum leak causing very lean running and stalling. Just plugging off the PCV to test for a few minutes will not hurt the motor, but keeping the PCV plugged off will eventually cause oil burning and oil leaks in a few hours of operation.

{Look up PCV system operation. Its value is in reducing emissions and stabilizing crank case pressure, venting unburned hydrocarbons that slip past the rings and into the crank case, into the intake tract to be burned. Increased crank case pressure can force oil past many seals, most notably valve cover, front and rear main seals. In excessive cases this pressure build up can push engine oil past valve seals and into the intake tract causing oil burning and "coking up", (literally cooked oil build up) onto the back sides of the intake valves.}

 

[ah.b.normal]

Doesn't really matter since the MAF isn't in use, it's not metering the air anyway. But will matter once everything else is connected.

Too True!

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Went ahead and put the intake tube and air filter on so I could get the MAF into position. Also mounted the exhaust so I could plug in the downstream O2 sensor. Not sure if one or both of those systems were the problem, but either way the engine runs beautifully now.

Next up is to finish wiring the two fans up front. I'd like to get the subframe mounted by the end of the weekend.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Put M4 threaded inserts in the tunnel. This was my first time using this tool. Ruined several inserts in the process. I was treating it too much like a riveter and squeezing them way too tight. After I yanked all the threads out of a couple inserts, I learned these things take a light touch.

I would have like to go with a bigger screw size but I worried that opening up the holes in the tunnel would leave the metal too thin on the top side.

Astute observers will notice that I was unable to reach the holes at the very front of the tunnel. If/when I remove the kickplate/bcm, I will fix this. For now, i believe the front section of tunnel cap will be fine without being secured at the front.

 

[Traé]

Put M4 threaded inserts in the tunnel. This was my first time using this tool. Ruined several inserts in the process. I was treating it too much like a riveter and squeezing them way too tight. After I yanked all the threads out of a couple inserts, I learned these things take a light touch.

I would have like to go with a bigger screw size but I worried that opening up the holes in the tunnel would leave the metal too thin on the top side.

Astute observers will notice that I was unable to reach the holes at the very front of the tunnel. If/when I remove the kickplate/bcm, I will fix this. For now, i believe the front section of tunnel cap will be fine without being secured at the front.
View attachment 48642

If it make you feel any better I used m4 as well on the tunnel and it feels rock solid for the shifter.

 

[Robinjo]

If it make you feel any better I used m4 as well on the tunnel and it feels rock solid for the shifter.

Samsies.... after I put a shifter brace on mine. But I have the GroupBuy shifter and not the fancy DF unit.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Got the subframe mounted up and started assembling the rear end. These are new axles and new knuckles. I'm debating on replacing the wheel bearings since it'll never be easier than now. These bearings have 124k miles on them.

It's taking a lot more effort than I expected to screw these toe link ends onto the DF-supplied rods.

 

[Rttoys]

I don’t believe the spacer/adaptor on top of the strut is correct

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Probably just looks off in my photo because I've only hand tightened everything so far. I'll tighten and torque once I verify it's all put together correctly.

 

[Rttoys]

Plus, did you put the stock cobalt outer tie rod ends on the back, then use the Df supplied tie rod ends on the front? rears look long

 

[TheAnesthetist]

I have the longer cobalt links on the rear

 

[Rttoys]

Ok. That is correct. Carry on.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Today I tightened up everything in the rear end. I've been all over town trying to find a m10x1 tap to clean the powder coat out of the left rear caliper. Both the bleeder and brake line holes are gunked up. FYI the thread restorer loaner kit from AutoZone does not come with that size.

Discovered that two of my tires are mounted backwards (I bought them that way) so I'll have to take them somewhere to be remounted.

I have two universal corbeau sliders that won't work with the seat mounts from DF. My plan is to cut this 1" square tubing to span the perpendicular tubing on the chassis. I'll drill a hole through both pieces of tubing and the floor. I will use heavy hardware to attach everything. Finally, I'll test fit the seats and mark where the sliders need to attach to the new mount. My concern with this plan is that the seat will be too flat and it'll feel like I'm sitting at a 90° angle in the car. I could built up the front with washers but I worry the angle would get funny when tightening the bolts.

 

[Gtstorey]

Grainger can get you a tap by early next week for $2.90 picked up at your local branch.

M10x1 Carbon Steel Straight-Flute Hand Taps - Grainger Industrial Supply

And this is a bottom tap like you should probably use.

 

[Gtstorey]

And one of the larger sets at harbor frieght list a m10x1 in the set.
SAE and Metric Tap and Die Set, 60 Piece (harborfreight.com)

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yep, the HF 60 piece tap & die set does have a M10x1.0, but it is a standard tap, not a bottoming tap.

 

[Gtstorey]

Yep, the HF 60 piece tap & die set does have a M10x1.0, but it is a standard tap, not a bottoming tap.

I wouldn't trust HF site well enough to count it out completely, but smaller taps usually seem to be starter taps. But it wouldn't surprise me if was actually not included at all. I would check before purchasing.