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[Mirage775]

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[Gtstorey]

You need to find a race car or rock buggy builder.

 

[Gtstorey]

Russell welding is a commercial welding shop, But they are not a fab shop, at least not to the extent of tube work on vehicles, as far as I know.

 

[jirwin]

Wait, really? I was basically told this wasn't an option a while ago. I would definitely like one too

 

[jirwin]

Well if you do get ahold of DF, tell them to make two haha. I haven't had time, but I was going to attempt to make my own/get one made. I'm picking up a welder later this week though so maybe I'll get to this sooner rather than later.

 

[jirwin]

I tried calling a few times a while ago. Let me know if you get thru! You and I will have the same exact part since we're both the original short chassis

 

[Markm]

Best time to call is between 8-11. I’m just guessing but I’d say they’re busy packaging shipments in the afternoon. Emails usually will get answered in the early morning or maybe around 3pm. These have been from my experiences. I have only talked to Adam a few times and Alyssa most of the time. She’s a busy bee so be patient.

 

[duthehustle93]

I think your original sketch has too many bends and joints, I wouldn't reference a SxS to build a cage since those are usually designed for ergonomics and a single low-speed rollover. I would recommend looking at rally and circuit/road course cages.. they're generally aimed to minimize bends and weld joints at critical members. The halo setup that DF used on our Goblins is a lot more conventional so I'd recommend duplicating something similar to what they do.

Did your welder of the mustang roll bar splice together two pieces for the main hoop? I could be seeing things but it looks like a weld at the center of the main hoop.

 

[jirwin]

Good to hear that the'll make and ship you the parts! I'll have to try getting ahold of them again soon

 

[Gtstorey]

I would be surprised if DF is going to do much custom tube bending. But I guess that depends on how busy they are with regular production work.

 

[Gtstorey]

It will be hard to modify it much. Anything you do to add bends will pretty much require the bars of the halo to be longer than stock. And then you will have to reshape the ends.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

BTW, at 6'3" and 280 lbs. getting in and out of the track frame with standard side bars is not overly difficult. It does require some practice, articulation and specific places to hold onto (and a removable steering wheel is a must have), but even with arthritis it can be done.

 

[mike_sno]

6'4"and was 255lbs with this Goblin. Kirkey Racing seat and I have plenty of space in all directions.

 

[Tinkles]

Unfortunately, I lost all of my Goblin pictures when my computer died earlier this year. But they still should be in my build log. Among the multiple changes to the chassis of my Goblin was the addition of a full size windshield and bars to tie the top of the windshield into the main hoop. The fab shop and I had a decent discussion on the best place for the top bars. One of the main reasons for placing them where we did was to act as a handle to help pull yourself up and out of the seat/car. We also did not intend for it to be structural in the event of a roll-over.

 

[Ross]

Here is a pic of Tinkles windshield and bars.

I had my city frame, easy entry goblin modified to be a track frame. Just used the normal DF halo bar up top, and extended the A pillars.

I'm 5'10" and I don't take my steering wheel off to get in and out. I am running the stock Cobalt seats, that are big and comfy, and still have room, but my frame is the 4" extended, not the short frame. I would say just try it, and see if you like the DF Halo top, you can always modify from there. Or come out to Goblinfest 2024 in a few weeks, and try getting in and out of my car... and probably 20 other goblins.

 

[Tinkles]

Thanks Ross.

 

[BSinvestments]

According to @BSinvestments He bought the full cage from DF and welded it his city chassis. The guy I bought it from told me a bunch of crap, but he also said you can add a full cage if you wanted too? I wish there were more Goblins close to me, that I could try out, since I'm tall AF....?

I'm not on the forum much, but I recently completed this myself. I own chassis 74 which was once a standard street chassis and is now a full track frame. I got with DF about a year ago and ordered the two upright tubes, upper hoop, and gussets. The uprights will have to be cut and and should most definitely be sleeved internally with rosettes welded at the butt joint near the mirror mounts. I have a unique color frame so I chose to weld it solid without welding it to the frame and then having it powder coated to match and then welded to the frame so I only had to touch up the welded areas to match. I can provide more pictures if needed.

BTW, at 6'3" and 280 lbs. getting in and out of the track frame with standard side bars is not overly difficult. It does require some practice, articulation and specific places to hold onto (and a removable steering wheel is a must have), but even with arthritis it can be done.

Im also 6'2' and about 280. A removable wheel is a must, with that I don't mind getting out and out at all.

 

[BSinvestments]

Welder came over this afternoon and started mocking the full frame up for me!

He raised the halo about 3-4" higher and racked the halo downwards to the hood, it actually looks pretty cool like this!

He got the caps/plugs removed off the standard frame, but he didn't have the right size to put a slug in it, so he'll be back tomorrow.

He got the front bars cut to fit over the "future slugs" and front of the halo.

He's also going to add some larger gussets in the rear tomorrow as well!

Got some pics, but they're dark. I'll have better ones tomorrow.

I turned down 1” schedule 80 to 1.29”