V1 Electrical start issue

[DRL]

Any guidance greatly appreciated…
The car will not start, no crank.
when key is in the start position lights/turn signal will turn on but no power to the OBD. The security passkey light turns on for 5 seconds then turns off. No other lights on the dash except odometer. All grounds checked and working.

I am using a ‘09 SS Donor (running driving) but ‘09 NA engine and wiring harness from previous goblin build (shout out to Mike_sno). I originally did not have keyles receiver and was hoping this is the issue but just plugged this in and no difference. I have also tried another ignition (shout out Jareth) to troubleshoot and this provided no difference.

will try to check voltage to ignition pins next.

thanks is advance for any help!
David

 

[Ross]

…
The car will not start, no crank.
when key is in the start position lights/turn signal will turn on but no power to the OBD.
...
David

I would start with the OBDii port, and see if it can help us.
When you say "no power to the OBD" are you saying that there isn't 12V+ on pin 16? No ground on pin 4? Have you checked the fuses?
- in the BCM, 10A, fuse 25, ECM/TCM
- in the rear Fusebox, 40A, fuse 6, BCM.
- in the rear Fusebox, 15A, PCM/ECM.
- in the BCM, 2A, IGN switch/PK3+
There are some tests here, if you know how to use an electrical meter. If you don't know, just ask, we can give more detail.

Do you have an electrical diagram for your car?
Manuals and diagrams:
manual for your goblin donor. downloadable 7-zip or WinRaR

 

[Gtstorey]

There are several differences in the wiring harnesses from a N.A. to the turbo so if this is the first start you need to review the differences in the diagrams to make sure everything was correctly tied in depending on how you tried to swap it over.
And it will still likely turn out to be a bad or missing ground.

 

[DRL]

There are several differences in the wiring harnesses from a N.A. to the turbo so if this is the first start you need to review the differences in the diagrams to make sure everything was correctly tied in depending on how you tried to swap it over.
And it will still likely turn out to be a bad or missing ground.

Thank you both for quick reply. I have tested all fuses but will retest the ones highlighted.

To clarify, the wiring harness was made specifically for the NA and I am using the control modules from that car. I have plugged that into SS ignition, pedals, instrumental panel etc.

I will test pins on OBD next, but power not staying on long enough to pair Bluetooth to read codes.

I can’t find the post I am comparing this to but I am getting some odd voltage readings from ignition. I circled the variances.

 

[mike_sno]

Dave bought the engine with engine and goblin harness, ecu, Pcm and fuse box from me. All was made around the 2.2NA. The add is probably still in classified. I kept the evap canister in case I ever have to switch back due to state regulations. The engine, harness, ecu and Pcm were for sure working when I pulled it. However, when I installed the LSJ I cannibalized some fuses as they were blown in my fuse box. That's what I told Dave, he double checked all fuses.

 

[Ark :D]

When you key on, does your cluster show all dashes on the display? Like this: "----------------------------"

 

[Ross]

...
I am using a ‘09 SS Donor (running driving) but ‘09 NA engine and wiring harness from previous goblin build (shout out to Mike_sno).
...
David

Is any of the electrical system from the LNF Turbo donor?
Did you have to modify the wiring harness from the NA engine?
Is the SS Donor a running Cobalt, and therefor a future project to put it in your goblin?

 

[DRL]

When you key on, does your cluster show all dashes on the display? Like this: "----------------------------"

 

[DRL]

Momentarily it’s all green boxes but quickly goes away. I don’t think I can upload video. Picture one is initial. Picture 2 after 5 seconds.
Security light does stay long long enough to do relearn procedure if anyone curious.

 

[DRL]

Is any of the electrical system from the LNF Turbo donor? Not that I am aware of
Did you have to modify the wiring harness from the NA engine? I made no modification. Was running per Mike.
Is the SS Donor a running Cobalt, and therefor a future project to put it in your goblin? Potentially. Goal was to keep it simple. Upgrade engine if needed in the future. I bought zero mile f23 from DF.
rebuilt LNF (still in break in period per previous owner) and F35 trans available if anyone needed it.

 

[Ross]

Okay. So your goblin is a 2009 NA 2.2L that has nothing related to the LNF right now.
So we can confine our debugging to the one donor car.
That makes things easier.

 

[mike_sno]

The fact that he sees the mileage makes me belive the BCM is taking to the head unit.

 

[mike_sno]

He used the mechanical parts from the Donor. The wiring harness, engine harness, ECU, BCU and Fusebox which I sold him. All of it worked when I pulled it out of my Goblin. I had to cut the light and radiator wire, that's it. He doesn't have the EVAP system, but that should not be the issue here. Like I said, I used some of the fuses when I installed my LSJ engine, but he double checked them as well.

I believe my old engine and harness will give him a head-start to get on the road and running and he is going to build his own harness and put the TC engine in at a later stage.

He bought the anti theft and TPMS system on ebay since his donor car had a broken one.

 

[Ark :D]

He bought the anti theft and TPMS system on ebay since his donor car had a broken one.

Data is definitely flowing. The problem is likely the above. I had to replace those bits on my car and it wouldn't start until I had swapped the PCB from the old TDM into the new TDM. I'm sure there's a procedure that can be done, but, something definitely needs to be done there.

 

[Gtstorey]

I would start with rechecking the ignition switch voltages and confirm your readings. Some of those don’t look possible without swapped/shorted together wires or a screwed up ignition switch.

 

[Gtstorey]

That is my chart being referenced in post 4. If anyone knows where that post is, I need to check the key-in pin 5 voltage. It should be 12v, not 5 that is shown in the post 4 attachment. If I’m showing 5v I need to correct it to being 12v.

 

[mike_sno]

Data is definitely flowing. The problem is likely the above. I had to replace those bits on my car and it wouldn't start until I had swapped the PCB from the old TDM into the new TDM. I'm sure there's a procedure that can be done, but, something definitely needs to be done there.

The 2.2 NA Anti theft device is in my LSJ set up, with the LSJ BCM, ECU,... I just had to relearn the key. But maybe the one he bought from Ebay is not working?

 

[DRL]

I would start with rechecking the ignition switch voltages and confirm your readings. Some of those don’t look possible without swapped/shorted together wires or a screwed up ignition switch.

You are correct I messed up. Upon recheck all looks according to your chart with the following exception.

In terminal 6 I am getting 5V in no key, key, and acc. However, only 4v in run and 4.3 in start.

 

[DRL]

I would start with the OBDii port, and see if it can help us.
When you say "no power to the OBD" are you saying that there isn't 12V+ on pin 16? No ground on pin 4? Have you checked the fuses?
- in the BCM, 10A, fuse 25, ECM/TCM
- in the rear Fusebox, 40A, fuse 6, BCM.
- in the rear Fusebox, 15A, PCM/ECM.
- in the BCM, 2A, IGN switch/PK3+
There are some tests here, if you know how to use an electrical meter. If you don't know, just ask, we can give more detail.

Do you have an electrical diagram for your car?
Manuals and diagrams:
manual for your goblin donor. downloadable 7-zip or WinRaR

All fuses rechecked and good.
I am getting 12V on OBD pin 16 and good ground on 4.

however, not getting a reading for resistance between 6 and 14 (could be my meter skills?). There is a small and varying voltage across the two (suggesting data flowing?).

I double checked my OBD reader. It pairs easily in my other car, will not register the goblin

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Question: when you state the grounds are good, how are you measuring them? The measurements have to be made from the connector/lug on the questionable part to the battery ground - not to the chassis ground stud/bolt where this part is physically connected. A good ground will measure in the milliohms range - less than 1 ohm, which is typically lower resistant than the accuracy of most retail store meters. These meters need to be in their lowest resistant setting (not the diode setting that beeps) and the leads touched together to get the value for the meter leads. This meter lead value gets subtracted from the measured value as described above and read no higher than 1(ish) ohms (net).