V1 No crank, no Start, no Panel lights

[tim1972]

2009, LNF, SS/TC, stock

Replaced crankshaft inserts, piston rings, two new camshafts. Engine started and ran, but only on cylinders 2 and 3. DTC code was P2146 and P2155, indicating injectors 1 and 4 were not functioning. Spark plugs 1 and 4 were firing but were shiny clean, 2 and 3 were black.

After physical wire inspections, resistance testing, and checking grounds and power and finding acceptable integrity of the wiring harnesses, I began to suspect the ECM. Specifically the I/O Low Side Drive Switches, pin #51, 52, 26, and 28 on the X1 side which are related to the injector high voltage control.

Bought a remanufactured ECM from Flagship and after successful security relearn, could not get crank from the ignition switch. However, with the ignition swicth on, and applying B+ power to the connection on the "underhood fuse block" for the 87 crank relay pin, engine would start but run on only cylinders 2 and 3. Cylinders 1 and 4 were still not getting fuel. This ECM was returned.

Bought another used ECM, replaced the modified tune back to stock tune with HP Tuners and engine would crank, but still run on only cylinders 2 and 3. No improvement.

Began to suspect an incorrectly installed timing chain, so replaced the timing chain with a new chain to ensure correct timing.

After reinstallation, I have no crank, no spark, and no instrument panel lights with either of the two remaining ECMs. Applying B+ to the relay crank pin location #87 with the ignition swicth on, I can get crank with both ECMs, but no spark with either.

There is power and ground at the coils.

There is no switched power at any of the pink wires at the BCM. There is B+ power at all the red/white and black/white wires.

Question - There is power at the #30 location for the crank relay, but no power at the #86 location when turning the ignition switch to crank. So no relay activation. Wondering what activates the I/O High Side Drive Switch at the X2 location on the ECM pin #57. It appears that this switch needs to recieve power from somewhere so it can supply power to the Pu/Wh wire that connects to the 86 pin location.

Thought best to identify all this background but hoping to address only one issue at a time to avoid confusion. Hoping to stick to the crank issue to start with.

Appreciate your expert technical assistance.

 

[Gtstorey]

Can you supply wiring diagrams for pin this and pin that or are we supposed to dig them out ourselves? Because I doubt anyone has it memorized. Or are you just trying to work from pinout list?

 

[tim1972]

Yes, looking for some advanced level advice to answer your first question. Not sure what your second question means.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Did the engine run prior to doing the internal engine work? Did you remove the injectors and rail from the head at any time? The DI injectors are known to be delicate and can be damaged if the individual injectors are removed from the rail.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Since you had cranking with the original ECM and now do not, there is a connection issue most likely with one of the connectors on the back of the ECU. Know these connectors are not meant to be installed and removed multiple times and it is possible one or more of the female pins is widened and not making a connection. Visual examination of these pins is recommended.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Poor grounds are also the problem in more than half of the electrical issues. Sandpaper the grounds to ensure good connections.

 

[Gtstorey]

Maybe we should back up and ask if you have any dtcs for engine or security.

 

[tim1972]

Did the engine run prior to doing the internal engine work? Did you remove the injectors and rail from the head at any time? The DI injectors are known to be delicate and can be damaged if the individual injectors are removed from the rail.

Thanks Desert....The engine did not run when I got the car. I replaced the coils, plugs, and MAF and got it running before pulling it. When I rebuilt it I replaced the injectors, crank sensor, cam sensors, high pressure fuel pump, on and on.....repeating my question.."Wondering what activates the I/O High Side Drive Switch at the X2 location on the ECM pin #57. "

 

[tim1972]

Since you had cranking with the original ECM and now do not, there is a connection issue most likely with one of the connectors on the back of the ECU. Know these connectors are not meant to be installed and removed multiple times and it is possible one or more of the female pins is widened and not making a connection. Visual examination of these pins is recommended.

All the connectors are straight which is quite a fundamental question, but thanks for your attention.....my question is "Wondering what activates the I/O High Side Drive Switch at the X2 location on the ECM pin #57. "

 

[tim1972]

Maybe we should back up and ask if you have any dtcs for engine or security.

My question is "Wondering what activates the I/O High Side Drive Switch at the X2 location on the ECM pin #57. "

 

[tim1972]

All the connectors are straight which is quite a fundamental question, but thanks for your attention.....my question is "Wondering what activates the I/O High Side Drive Switch at the X2 location on the ECM pin #57. "

Desert - Slept on your comment a little more.....the pins in the ECM are clean and straight. However, I think there is a possibility that the female connections on the X2 could be fatigued. For now I am going to give that a lower probablility and continue to trace ignition activation from the crank relay back to the ignition switch. Maybe get back to the connector later.

Will certainly keep that in mind.

Thanks for your comment.

 

[tim1972]

Maybe we should back up and ask if you have any dtcs for engine or security.

Will I get DTC codes if the engine doesnt start?

 

[Gtstorey]

Will I get DTC codes if the engine doesnt start?

Depends on what it sees or doesn't see. Maybe you didn't actually get a good security relearn. Maybe this is a case of bad connections. Every time you disconnect an ecm or a fuse box connector, it is less likely to connect up fully the next. Building these cars

I'm having difficulty determining your experience level with electrical troubleshooting. If you are looking at wiring diagrams, it should answer all of the questions about what is activating certain pins. Up to the point that the logic in the computer takes over to provide a signal. If your question is about the logic in the computer, that is a much deeper conversation that I doubt anybody outside of the original programmers fully know (and they have forgotten by now). But there are hints in the OEM service manual. Do you have access to the OEM service manual?

 

[tim1972]

So there is no security light on the panel. It comes on the blinks off. I have attempted once to do the relearn, even though the security light was not there.

So I am trying to check the wires from the ECM back to the ignition switch to see if I find any faults. The wiring diagram ends with a normally open high voltage switch inside the ECM. I was trying to understand what energizes it. When it energizes it closes and allows the engine to crank. After looking this morning I am almost convinced that it is powered by the pink wire #54 on the X2.

I have no power at any of the pink ignition wires including the ones at the ECM. So now I think that maybe the anti theft is preventing ignition?? Can I bypass that annoying anti theft system?

 

[Gtstorey]

You are going to have to post the wiring diagrams when you discuss this. Pink wire 54 on x2 means nothing.

There is supposed to be some trick to eliminating vats/security on the E69, but I've never seen any details. It isn't available through any tuning software that I know of.

 

[tim1972]

Still searching for technical experts who are familiar with the 7500 page service manual that includes mechanical and electrical details. Hoping to get educated and not really interested in educateing.

 

[Rttoys]

There is no switched power at any of the pink wires at the BCM. There is B+ power at all the red/white and black/white wires.

this sticks out to me because without it, nothing is going to work. I don’t know the tc model well enough and it’s been a long time since I messed with the wiring to say where to start, but maybe review the wire harness videos and find the junction for the pink wires and see where that leads. That may get you started again, but still fear there some other oddball problem that was there from the beginning (before tear down and install).