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comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
comegetjoe
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2007 Cobalt SS, Non LSJ
94k, Red on dark interior
Yes, its a 2.4
Laundry list of mods
-ZZP supercharger kit
-fresh timing kit install
-built head, springs, performance cams
-full exhaust
-got me dem sweet zzp red coil packs :rolleyes:
-2.8 pulley
-performance clutch, cant remember which
- short shifter
____
Front and rear sway bars
Strut tower brace
Lowering springs
New Kyb struts/shocks
New bushings everywhere, solid where needed
Powerstop pads
And some sticky tires

The car was previously loved heavily, money was spent and then interests changed. Let me be the one to pick up the mind change. Let me also be the one to say its a good car for driving and Ill be doing just that with it.

With most project cars it needs a few things.
1. Serpentine belt is frayed, came up and pulled a wire out of the intake VVT sensor. Easy fix.
2. I think its got a dual pass that isn't hooked up.
3. Those sticky tires need replaced because theyre at the wear lines and if im driving this in the rain, those just wont do.
4. Radio needs hooked up.
5. I NEED A RED DRIVERS MIRROR CAP? or mirror. Anyone?
6. And here's where we can get a bit off?on? topic....it wont produce an injector pulse with key cranking and will continue to crank and crank and crank without starting, but if you shoot fluid into the intake while cranking and open the throttle body a bit it will fire right up and then once it fires up, it stays running without issue. I havent got the car home yet to dive into fuses, relays, a crank sensor, crank relearn or any of the seemingly basic stuff yet, but, What could this be? I know someone here has the answer.

Drove out towards @Ark :D to look at it and Ill be headed back out Friday afternoon to pick it up.
 
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Rttoys
Well, that’s interesting.

if you can’t find red mirrors, I think I have dr and pass in black. Would still look good.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
View attachment 55890View attachment 55891View attachment 55892

2007 Cobalt SS, Non LSJ
94k, Red on dark interior
Yes, its a 2.4
Laundry list of mods
-ZZP supercharger kit
-fresh timing kit install
-built head, springs, performance cams
-full exhaust
-got me dem sweet zzp red coil packs :rolleyes:
-2.8 pulley
-performance clutch, cant remember which
- short shifter
____
Front and rear sway bars
Strut tower brace
Lowering springs
New Kyb struts/shocks
New bushings everywhere, solid where needed
Powerstop pads
And some sticky tires

The car was previously loved heavily, money was spent and then interests changed. Let me be the one to pick up the mind change. Let me also be the one to say its a good car for driving and Ill be doing just that with it.

With most project cars it needs a few things.
1. Serpentine belt is frayed, came up and pulled a wire out of the intake VVT sensor. Easy fix.
2. I think its got a dual pass that isn't hooked up.
3. Those sticky tires need replaced because theyre at the wear lines and if im driving this in the rain, those just wont do.
4. Radio needs hooked up.
5. I NEED A RED DRIVERS MIRROR CAP? or mirror. Anyone?
6. And here's where we can get a bit off?on? topic....it wont produce an injector pulse with key cranking and will continue to crank and crank and crank without starting, but if you shoot fluid into the intake while cranking and open the throttle body a bit it will fire right up and then once it fires up, it stays running without issue. I havent got the car home yet to dive into fuses, relays, a crank sensor, crank relearn or any of the seemingly basic stuff yet, but, What could this be? I know someone here has the answer.

Drove out towards @Ark :D to look at it and Ill be headed back out Friday afternoon to pick it up.
Hmm, idle air control stuck closed? Any codes?
 
Rttoys
There’s a lot to verify once you get it home, then we can go from there. It’s all guessing till then. After some info, then it’s better guesses. :D
 
Rauq
Given that I'm pretty sure every Ecotec engine since 2002 is drive by wire, I'd guess IAC is not the problem :rolleyes:

How are you measuring that the injector doesn't get a pulse when cranking? I can't come up with an explanation as to how you'd have no injector pulse while cranking, but if you can get it to fire, the injectors work just fine. I don't know if an LE5 is the same but my LSJ will only run the pump for a few seconds on initial key on and won't run again until the engine turns over, so there's some logic built into the start routine. I'd be curious if you have fuel pressure before cranking or if you're getting neither fuel pressure nor injector pulse until it fires. It's not like the starter can do its thing unless the BCM is happy, either, because GM ignition switches of the era don't actually complete a start circuit- the ignition switch sees the key in the ACC position, then then RUN position, and then from there if it detects neither, the BCM infers that the key is in the START position. So the fact that the BCM recognizes the key in the RUN position and enables everything to run after firing, including fuel pump, injectors, and coils, but doesn't give you enough to start, is curious. I wonder if there's some combination of VATS being turned off and the ignition cylinder being rewired would do this.

I recognize I haven't really given you any info to get closer to having everything running, but hopefully I haven't missed the mark on anything and that info proves at least somewhat useful in diagnosis.
 
comegetjoe
Given that I'm pretty sure every Ecotec engine since 2002 is drive by wire, I'd guess IAC is not the problem :rolleyes:

How are you measuring that the injector doesn't get a pulse when cranking? I can't come up with an explanation as to how you'd have no injector pulse while cranking, but if you can get it to fire, the injectors work just fine. I don't know if an LE5 is the same but my LSJ will only run the pump for a few seconds on initial key on and won't run again until the engine turns over, so there's some logic built into the start routine. I'd be curious if you have fuel pressure before cranking or if you're getting neither fuel pressure nor injector pulse until it fires. It's not like the starter can do its thing unless the BCM is happy, either, because GM ignition switches of the era don't actually complete a start circuit- the ignition switch sees the key in the ACC position, then then RUN position, and then from there if it detects neither, the BCM infers that the key is in the START position. So the fact that the BCM recognizes the key in the RUN position and enables everything to run after firing, including fuel pump, injectors, and coils, but doesn't give you enough to start, is curious. I wonder if there's some combination of VATS being turned off and the ignition cylinder being rewired would do this.

I recognize I haven't really given you any info to get closer to having everything running, but hopefully I haven't missed the mark on anything and that info proves at least somewhat useful in diagnosis.

I do recall there being no security light.
I also recall the p.o. saying that the ZZP flashed the PCM for the SC kit.

I appreciate any help working through this in the mean time :)
 
comegetjoe
Got it home... almost lol
Made it 86 miles of the 87 mile trip and then bam, no tach signal. Let it sit for a minute and it restarted on fluid. Relatively uneventful ride home, car stumbles low rpm/high throttle input but clears up around 3250-3500rpm, cruises gently in all gears.

More to come this weekend.
 
comegetjoe
In the hips. Its allll in the tune.... alll in the tune.
Loaded up a stock 2.4 file from HPT and although its not happy with the bigger injectors, it idles, starts without fluid.

Spoke with a friend of a friend who took all of the info I had, a log and some time and he created a base file to get the car rolling. Idk what zzp did to this thing, but it was NOT happy.

Raining this afternoon, so no driving on the tires that are on it.
 
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