QuantumFluxuation
Active Member
- QuantumFluxuation Active Member
What kind of headlights are those? I really like the concealed look.
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OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
The lows are straight up yellow btw. The highs are incredibly bright and blindy but I don't drive at night so it's not really an issue.
Great minds think alike! I've actually had an external cooler for about a month now - I'll post in my next update
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
- TheNuker Goblin Guru
Awesome, Just about to add one myself. Did you use the ZZP plate with AN-10 fittings?
The lows are straight up yellow btw. The highs are incredibly bright and blindy but I don't drive at night so it's not really an issue.
Great minds think alike! I've actually had an external cooler for about a month now - I'll post in my next update
Nuker-
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
Yep! eBay has cooler and 10an line kits that work perfectly for ~$100. I think my cooler is 16bar and fits great.
QuantumFluxuation
Active Member
- QuantumFluxuation Active Member
Appreciate it. I'm not sure how I feel about yellow. I also meant to ask what you used as the grille.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
I have my lights on buttons and just turn on/off the highs (white). The yellow would be cool when pulling into a meet or something but otherwise it's just annoying.
For the grill I used scrap purchased from customcargrills and used windscreen from HD behind it
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
Time for an update!
I took the car out one evening and came back with a loud tapping only heard when I took my foot off the gas and usually only after second gear. Keep in mind I have the f23 and have done internal surgery so I took another stab at actually measuring bearing preload instead of using the shims from the stock f23. That didn't work and over the course of several pull outs > take aparts > re-installs and tests to find the same issue I gave up and went back to the F35. I'm not done with the F23 though, I miss that 4.17 final drive terribly and feel like there is no end solution without the f23 installed. I'll update this when I get to the bottom of it - I think it's the LSD itself
In other news, post performance install I focused on some of the details which will continue to murder budgets and seemingly never end.
Solid shifter! I echo what a lot of member have said already. In the F35 the distance to get to 1st and 2nd gear is surprisingly short. On the other side, getting into 5th is a bit risky bc it's possible to slam her into 3rd and that's not fun at high RPM.
I had a situation where I was playing with a corvette on the highway and blew an intercooler pipe off because my intercooler mounts broke. It was my mission to bead roll, tbolt clamp, and build supports for everything. Bead rolling was actually a fun experience and pretty easy to get a solid end result without much fuss
Here you'll see the bottom intercooler mounts. These are made by picking up some aluminum tube from a big box and using a press to flatten and angle each side using heat. I have these type of mounts on the bottom side of the intake manifold and the exhaust as well. Time intensive but work beautifully.
I also added 16 row oil cooler with 10an lines. Used the LNF adapter from ZZP. Unfortunately I don't have any before and afters to compare to but she seems to be working as expected. In the pic below you can see where I capped off a coolant hose and how it comes together at the adapter. I don't love the clamps, will be changing out as time / funds allow
During the transmission battle I managed to kink the stock gas line. I tried to make new lines using leftover nylon but I couldn't get the tube to fit over the stock quick disconnects. I saw the vid DF put together but I don't have that tool sooooo time to figure something else out. Russell makes a quick disconnect to AN fitting which is a godsend. Picked up two of those, fittings and braided lines. No more kinks!
Next up was the exhaust. I used the stock DF exhaust and cut the muffler off of it and welded vbands to the exhaust, spicy muffler, 4" tip as well as a secondary wideband bung. Using the vbands allows me to angle muffler and tip as well as take the muffler out of the equation when I really want to piss my neighbors off. She sounds incredible and really love the flexibility
I sprayed burnt copper cerakote on the steel bits
I'll get some better pictures of the final results later
More to come I hit the pic limit
I took the car out one evening and came back with a loud tapping only heard when I took my foot off the gas and usually only after second gear. Keep in mind I have the f23 and have done internal surgery so I took another stab at actually measuring bearing preload instead of using the shims from the stock f23. That didn't work and over the course of several pull outs > take aparts > re-installs and tests to find the same issue I gave up and went back to the F35. I'm not done with the F23 though, I miss that 4.17 final drive terribly and feel like there is no end solution without the f23 installed. I'll update this when I get to the bottom of it - I think it's the LSD itself
In other news, post performance install I focused on some of the details which will continue to murder budgets and seemingly never end.
Solid shifter! I echo what a lot of member have said already. In the F35 the distance to get to 1st and 2nd gear is surprisingly short. On the other side, getting into 5th is a bit risky bc it's possible to slam her into 3rd and that's not fun at high RPM.
I had a situation where I was playing with a corvette on the highway and blew an intercooler pipe off because my intercooler mounts broke. It was my mission to bead roll, tbolt clamp, and build supports for everything. Bead rolling was actually a fun experience and pretty easy to get a solid end result without much fuss
Here you'll see the bottom intercooler mounts. These are made by picking up some aluminum tube from a big box and using a press to flatten and angle each side using heat. I have these type of mounts on the bottom side of the intake manifold and the exhaust as well. Time intensive but work beautifully.
I also added 16 row oil cooler with 10an lines. Used the LNF adapter from ZZP. Unfortunately I don't have any before and afters to compare to but she seems to be working as expected. In the pic below you can see where I capped off a coolant hose and how it comes together at the adapter. I don't love the clamps, will be changing out as time / funds allow
During the transmission battle I managed to kink the stock gas line. I tried to make new lines using leftover nylon but I couldn't get the tube to fit over the stock quick disconnects. I saw the vid DF put together but I don't have that tool sooooo time to figure something else out. Russell makes a quick disconnect to AN fitting which is a godsend. Picked up two of those, fittings and braided lines. No more kinks!
Next up was the exhaust. I used the stock DF exhaust and cut the muffler off of it and welded vbands to the exhaust, spicy muffler, 4" tip as well as a secondary wideband bung. Using the vbands allows me to angle muffler and tip as well as take the muffler out of the equation when I really want to piss my neighbors off. She sounds incredible and really love the flexibility
I sprayed burnt copper cerakote on the steel bits
I'll get some better pictures of the final results later
More to come I hit the pic limit
Last edited:
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
Starting to focus on front aero and make things a bit more user friendly.
Here's a pic of the front floor pan, just used some sheet metal I found at HD and lined up the mounting holes > painted > wrapped. The two bolts at the very top are drilled through the radiator mount using stock hardware. The middle bolts were existing rivnut mounts for the radiator that I drilled out and through the frame. Rears are the stock rivnut M4 mounts.
I loved Ken's idea with the front hood mounts, being able to hinge and open up the hood from the front. This allowed me to also build a front insert and block wind coming in and under the radiator and getting trapped. I used 2" aluminum stock I found at HD and just cut / bolted everything together. I used the stock dzus mounts on the radiator support bracket for the bottom plate and just sandwhich the top plate from the hood down onto it.
Coincidently this plate also closes the gap in the very front so the front is pretty much a sealed off underbelly
Inside the hood
I'll probably put the grill back on at some point, but this is good for now
Here's a pic of the front floor pan, just used some sheet metal I found at HD and lined up the mounting holes > painted > wrapped. The two bolts at the very top are drilled through the radiator mount using stock hardware. The middle bolts were existing rivnut mounts for the radiator that I drilled out and through the frame. Rears are the stock rivnut M4 mounts.
I loved Ken's idea with the front hood mounts, being able to hinge and open up the hood from the front. This allowed me to also build a front insert and block wind coming in and under the radiator and getting trapped. I used 2" aluminum stock I found at HD and just cut / bolted everything together. I used the stock dzus mounts on the radiator support bracket for the bottom plate and just sandwhich the top plate from the hood down onto it.
Coincidently this plate also closes the gap in the very front so the front is pretty much a sealed off underbelly
Inside the hood
I'll probably put the grill back on at some point, but this is good for now
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OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
Thanks Money! Using the stock exhaust made everything much easier. Just be sure to line up your male / female vbands so if you remove your muffler the tip will still work.
Now you need some side scoops to direct some cool air into that oil cooler.
I might use some fans and tie them into an oil temp sensor if that's possible. When track days become a more regular thing i'll be using amsoil which has a higher temp
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
I would 100% bring it from the back of your mind into reality. After driving around the 3.8 f35 from the 4.17 f23 I really miss it, I think it's the perfect mix of performance and street and works really well with a TC build.
The LSD aspect of the F23 is really what introduces a lot of cost and risk, what you could do is a straight install of the F23 without the LSD and see if you're missing much.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I mean I already have a 4.05 so it wouldn't be as big of a jump for me as it was for you. I'm no expert driver but I think I can tell the difference the LSD makes in the one autocross I've done in this car. Then again I'm running 225 200TW's and not some monster truck super slicks like some folks so tire slip is a bit more of a thing for me than others.
Taller tires + longer final drive vs shorter tires + shorter final drive only exaggerates the gearing difference as well.
My interest in the F23 swap is primarily in swapping to a cheaper (before LSD) and more durable trans while my LSD 4.05 F35 is still in good shape and worth some money. I still have dreams of making stupid power one day.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
Yep, I get ya. If I were to do it again I'd probably use the Team Green Inserts with upgraded springs. It's considerably cheaper than the Quaife and mitigates the extra work, cost, risk that comes along with the bearings and preload. The 4.05 LSD F35 is like the holy grail right now with the 'balt fan bois. Go for it!
