V1 POR-15 How Much do we need?

[Jareth]

POR-15 can be purchased as a package of six 4oz cans, by the Pint, Quart and Gallon.

Anybody know what how much to put on 2 to 3 coats on the frame, engine cradle and other typical associated parts? (not the aluminum panels)


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[Ross]

My guess, 2 to 3 quarts. What is your guess?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

One coat, should be about 2 quarts. I purchased 1 gallon to do 2 coats on my frame, when I finally get to that point. You will not need more than 2 coats of base. I also purchased 2 quarts of 2K epoxy white for the final finish on my frame.

Please keep in mind that POR-15 base is humidity activated - the more humid it is the faster it dries. The second coat has to go onto the first coat within 2-3 hours, otherwise you have to wait 24 hours for the first coat to finish curing and then break out the scotchbrite pads to rough up the surface of the first coat.

 

[OptimizePrime]

POR-15 was straight up miserable to work with guys. I'd recommend finding something else.

If you brush it on it'll leave the strokes and it'll eat your low nap rollers within minutes. I don't know what it's like to spray it but spraying tubes, especially with this stuff, is going to be tough.

I overkilled the prep and the por-15 is the first to chip. That being said, it does hold it's color atleast.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I've used POR-15 base on several Jeep chassis. Foam brushes work the best to apply. Spraying is not a recommended method to apply the base in my experience. Prepping the metal is very important with POR and it almost needs a 'sandpaper' finish before applying the base coats.

Once the base is cured, it needs to be overcoated as it is not UV resistant. The surface requires a scuff, like any other paint base coating, before applying the overcoat. I've always used the 2K epoxy and it takes a lot to chip it - like off road racing getting a face full of large gravel blasts. Other vehicles with powder coating look like they got hit with buckshot under the same conditions, chips everywhere. Time to strip and re-powdercoat, but POR is a straight touch and recoat with the 2K again.

I have had good results with POR-15.

 

[Jareth]

Please keep in mind that POR-15 base is humidity activated - the more humid it is the faster it dries.

Well I have lots of HUMIDITY here in Florida so that should be good.

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[Jareth]

The hardest thing for me is making sure I’m hitting every surface with the required coats. With that being said i assume color coats could be mixed?

Example: Apply coat of Gray, let that tack up and then apply a coat of Black? Then afterwards follow up with 2K color coat of choice.

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[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yep, perfectly good to do, that way you are certain on the base coat coverage.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Jareth, do you have a rotisserie to put the frame on? Makes it much easier to get all sides of the frame. Word of advice, start with the inner parts of the frame, like the inside of the tunnel and inside the cockpit, so your not leaning on those outside just painted surfaces!

 

[Jareth]

Rotisserie? Only rotisserie around this house is the rotisserie Chicken from the grocery store

Although I don’t have something to spin it on perhaps I could elevate it high enough so I don’t have to try and flip it.

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[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yeah, I've been contemplating building a rotisserie, but not sure I'd ever use it again. Saw horses are probably my go to at this point. The nice thing is that if you miss a spot, you can go right back and touch it up!

 

[Jareth]

So the POR-15 journey has begun, just placed order for several quarts of Black, Grey, and 2K Dark Grey.

To insure complete coverage I’ll lay a coat of Grey, then Black and then finish with a coat of the 2K Dark Grey.


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[Jareth]

So even though I only got the frame a few weeks ago and have had it covered there is a light surface rust on most of it. Does POR-15 prefer to have a little rust for it to convert and adhere to or would it be better to sandblast it clean before apply the 3 stage POR process?

The Engine Cradle I will be sandblasting because it is my understanding the POR should not be applied over paint.

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[Gtstorey]

Have you looked up POR-15 instructions? It needs a rough surface to adhere too. I don’t think spotty light surface or smooth steel is good. I would sandblast or wire brush the entire chassis.

 

[Jareth]

I have a rotary sander that I can use to hit all surfaces with 40 grit disk then.

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[Desert Sasqwatch]

As @Gtstorey stated, brush or sand the surface rust, and then use the 2 stage metal prep from POR - degrease and chemical etch. Don't hurry the chemical etch, it needs to work on the metal to get the proper surface finish, which should be more matte than shiny by the time you rinse - and dry (compressed air works best) - the metal before putting on the base coat.

The first coat will look 'thin', so don't over do it or you will get runs or drips. If it's too thick and starts to run, wipe some off while it's still very wet with a no-lint cloth and recoat. The second coat will go on better, but again don't go too thick. Some sharp outside corners may require a 3rd coat.

Any blemishes in the base coat can be lightly sanded out (and touched up if needed) before scuffing the whole surface and applying (spraying) the 2K.

 

[Jareth]

Will do, thanks

 

[Jareth]

local company wants $300 to sandblast just the engine cradle.

Can anyone recommend a chemical product to strip the paint from cradle? (I'll be sure to wear respirator)

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[Desert Sasqwatch]

Aviation paint stripper, works on everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Remover-Removes-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B09VCSH4KB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=aircraft+paint+remover&qid=1661538894&sr=8-3