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V1 Seb's Goblin #454 (2008 SS/TC donor) - Registered

S
My lower control arms ended up coming in at some wonky angles and bends, so I 3D printed some fixtures to help hold everything where it needed to be.
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They have dowels on the bottom side that lock into the fixture table. Worked out pretty well for getting it tacked up.
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Unfortunately, the hardware I need to continue still hasn't shipped, so I'm kind of at a stand still until that arrives.
On the plus side, that gives me some time to get a new toy setup -
39456

This is going to make cutting brackets and notching tubes so much more enjoyable!
 

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Desert Sasqwatch
Woah, those look like some big tubes and big heims you will be using - almost off-road (sasquatch :cool:) suspension sized! Are you using weld in tube adapters or going the DF route with threaded tube inserts?

I'm planning to use a step down from those sizes: 1.25/1.0 inch tubes with 3/4 inch high misalignment at the 'ball joint' end and 5/8 and 3/4 inch high misalignment for the frame mounts on the LCA and 1.0 inch tubes with 3/4 inch high misalignment at the 'ball joint' end and 5/8 inch high misalignment for the frame mounts on the UCA. All tubes are 0.095 wall - believe this should be plenty strong for the application.

This photo shows the DF supplied front 1/2 inch heims from the front suspension on the left, with the 5/8 inch high misalignment in the center and the 3/4 inch high misalignment on the right heims - for visual size comparison.
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ATMironov
Yes, a 7/8" with high misalignment spacers for the "ball joint" and 3/4" for the 2 that attach to the chassis.

This is great. I really really want to get tubular control arms to get rid of all the bushings.

How does the connection to the knuckle work?
 
S
Woah, those look like some big tubes and big heims you will be using - almost off-road (sasquatch :cool:) suspension sized! Are you using weld in tube adapters or going the DF route with threaded tube inserts?
My lower control arm is 1-1/4"OD on the main tubes and 1"OD on the little gusset tube. I'll be using threaded weld in tube bungs.

I went extra large on the ball joint end heim so I could maintain a full 3/4" diameter on the ball joint shaft while using misalignment spacers. Lots of load in single shear with some bending at this joint, so I didn't want to skimp LOL
 
S
I was able to get one side tacked up and assembled to make sure everything was matching up with the design, and I think it's coming together pretty well.
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After numerous design attempts, I was unable to come up with an upper control arm that I was happy with that used the stock knuckle, so I ended up going with my original plan to optimize the strut geometry. I was able to hit every design goal I had with this geometry except camber gain, so overall it's still a huge improvement over the stock design.
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Sitting at roughly ride height here.
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Bump steer can be adjusted by moving the shims around.

I can cycle the entire stroke of the damper without any binding, which is roughly 2.5" in both droop and bump.
Anti-Squat comes in at 80% and Anti-Lift at 50%.
Roll center height moved to 3-1/4"
 
S
I can see what the next group buy will be. Lol
lol. If there was enough interest, I have some domestic vendors that I could get reasonable prices and excellent quality on for quantities over 10.
Front end needs to be reconfigured for more travel along with new springs front and rear to take full advantage of the overall setup anyway.
Stay tuned!
 
ATMironov
lol. If there was enough interest, I have some domestic vendors that I could get reasonable prices and excellent quality on for quantities over 10.
Front end needs to be reconfigured for more travel along with new springs front and rear to take full advantage of the overall setup anyway.
Stay tuned!
I’m in. I was going yo wait until you finished before I asked if you would make me one. Haha
 
Keckster
Curious on the reasoning behind going for the percentages of anti squat and lift you are targeting? I've not looked at the rear yet but have plans for anti dive in the front but don't know how much I should go for
 
S
Curious on the reasoning behind going for the percentages of anti squat and lift you are targeting? I've not looked at the rear yet but have plans for anti dive in the front but don't know how much I should go for
I loosely based my targets on the limited information I could find about mid/rear engine production car anti-geometries. The MR2 and Fiero both had around 60% anti-squat. The Porsche Cayman GT4 has a little over 100% anti-squat and 58% anti-lift.
For front anti-dive 25-35% is typical, and I'll be targeting 30%.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
@Keckster Not to hijack this thread, but how are you planning to change the front geometry for anti-dive? The anti-squat @Sebnuts is shooting for is probably the maximum possible with a LCA/strut combination.

The changes I made to my front suspension come in at about 35% anti-dive.
 
Keckster
@Keckster Not to hijack this thread, but how are you planning to change the front geometry for anti-dive? The anti-squat @Sebnuts is shooting for is probably the maximum possible with a LCA/strut combination.

The changes I made to my front suspension come in at about 35% anti-dive.
I was doing the same thing as you by drilling above the front UCA mounting point about 3/4" and making a second mounting point.
 
S
I was doing the same thing as you by drilling above the front UCA mounting point about 3/4" and making a second mounting point.
I'll be moving mine up about 1-5/16" as well as moving the ball joint mount locations on the knuckle. This will get me 30% anti-dive and move the front roll center height down to the target 1-7/16". With some high misalignment spacers on the knuckles and relocating the lower control arm coilover mount, I should be able to increase the suspension travel to 2" in both bump and droop.
 
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