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V1 Steering rack to fast.

95Blitz

Goblin Guru
95Blitz
So I was in Mexico Saturday, and to me the steering is just to fast with the SS rack. I have the power side of the system off so it gives more resistance. The SS rack is a 2.875 lock to lock, the soft ride suspension base cobalt is 3.625 lock to lock. So around 3/4 of a turn more lock to lock. That I hope will slow the steering down enough as to not be so twitchy. I have my home made splitter installed now, and have redone the alignment front and rear.
Is there anything I'm missing that could slow the steering down alittle?
 
Markm
Saturn vue electric steering has adjustable effort which you could look into but I have not done that yet but have read about it.
 
jirwin
So I was in Mexico Saturday, and to me the steering is just to fast with the SS rack. I have the power side of the system off so it gives more resistance. The SS rack is a 2.875 lock to lock, the soft ride suspension base cobalt is 3.625 lock to lock. So around 3/4 of a turn more lock to lock. That I hope will slow the steering down enough as to not be so twitchy. I have my home made splitter installed now, and have redone the alignment front and rear.
Is there anything I'm missing that could slow the steering down alittle?

Same ratios afaik


 
Desert Sasqwatch
The length of the tie rod arms on the front hub uprights can make a difference in felt ratio. The longer the arm, the more turns into the steering wheel is needed to change the angle of the front wheels. It doesn't take much added length to the arms to change the ratio. But, this will also affect the Ackerman of the steering that needs to be compensated.
 
G
What are the specs you set your alignment to?
This is what really needs to be looked at. I have the Vue EPS with adjuster and a front wing, but without proper alignment, they don't mean anything. I can drive it one handed to about 100mph. Of course, the Goblin isn't going to be the same as a production GT car. We had someone complain on here that the Goblin didn't feel as good as his Charge or something similar when crossing a railroad at speed. So, some of this depends in your expectations.
 
95Blitz
I'll get the specs on the alignment later this week.

I'm heading to Pull a Part tomorrow while in Montgomery to take a look at a few steering racks.

Here is the info I have been looking at.
The FE1 shows to be the +3
and the FE3&5 shows to be -3
 

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Indy Lonnie
Set Front castor to 8.5 - 9.5*, camber to 0.5* and toe to 1/8”. Mine was so much more stable after redoing the alignment to these specs. Front wing / splitter also helps.
 
G
I'll get the specs on the alignment later this week.

I'm heading to Pull a Part tomorrow while in Montgomery to take a look at a few steering racks.

Here is the info I have been looking at.
The FE1 shows to be the +3
and the FE3&5 shows to be -3
Turns to lock may not be the same as ratio of turns to wheel angle. The wheel angle is less on the non-ss I think.
 
95Blitz
So the LE1 rack is 3.625 lock to lock and has about 5 inches of travel. I'm going to bolt it down and get a more precise measurement this weekend along with the alignment on the car.

I think my castor could be off, the reason I say that is. I checked the alignment a few months back and it was way way off and I didn't think to check the castor.

I'm not going to install the rack till I make sure the alignment is correct, I don't want to put a band aid on a problem I can fix the correct way.
 
Indy Lonnie
My notes from last alignment:
Front Castor:
Calibrate gauge on center console back to front.
1/2 turn for 1 degree change on small heim A-arm.



Camber:
Calibrate gauge on top hoop (roll bar) side to side.
(large heim: 1/2 turn = 0.4* change)
(Turn both A-arm smaller helms together for 0.1* per 1/2 turn)
 
95Blitz
Definitely check everything. I know for one thing, toe will make these car bounce around quickly At high speeds.
Yeah the wrong toe setting on these cars gets scary fast even at moderate speeds.

A quick check of the castor and it showed just over 5* guess I need to lean her back some more..
 
Indy Lonnie
Definitely check everything. I know for one thing, toe will make these car bounce around quickly At high speeds.
What toe settings have you had problems with?
I “had” my rear at 1/8” but am installing the new tubular rear cradle.
I have read that GM set the rear of the Corvair at 1/4” total to help with lift oversteer with some Corvair racers going upwards of 3/8”.
 
Rttoys
What toe settings have you had problems with?
I “had” my rear at 1/8” but am installing the new tubular rear cradle.
I have read that GM set the rear of the Corvair at 1/4” total to help with lift oversteer with some Corvair racers going upwards of 3/8”.
Mine is a wtf. I’m mostly autocross and track. I rarely drive on the road anymore. Also ToxicBill and I are on identical setups and always within .1 sec of each other. Last year he beat me one time by .4 or so and I chalked it up to having a bad day. I happened to go for a drive somewhere and the car was all over the place. Checked alignment and front toe was way off. Like one side toe out badly. Went over the steering with a fine tooth comb and didn’t find anything, so reset toe and all has been good since. So hell if I know. :shrugshoulders:

my notes say I’m 1/8” toe in rear with new subframe, 1/4” toe in with old subframe and 1/4” toe in front, but I think I moved that to 1/8” toe in front Last year.
 
95Blitz
Everything has been off so far except the right rear camber.
This is where I'm at so far.
Castor left & right is set to 8.8*
Camber all the way around is 1.5*
I still need to check toe-in. Im sure it's off also.
 
Rttoys
I have found you don’t need that much negative camber up front. Around -.8 to -.5 is much better. It won’t change or fix any twitchiness, but you will get much more tire contact on the road.
 
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