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ZZP Tubular A-Arms (SOLD)

RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
RobC76
I have a set of brand new ZZP Tubular A-Arms that are in the packaging if anyone is interested. Remember these are set up from ZZP with the LSJ ball joints. If you want to use them on LNF knuckles the ball joint has to be changed.
$525.00 shipped anywhere in US.
I also have 3 sets of factory aluminum ones (LNF) that have been glass beaded and rebuilt with the good moog sphericals and ball joints if anyone may be looking for those.
Thanks

zzperformance.com

ZZP Cobalt/Redline Tubular Control Arms

ZZPerformance chrome moly A arms hold the wheels securely in place. With better control over camber and toe the car will corner, brake and stop better. Launch times are improved by preventing wheel toe in, and torque steer is reduced.
zzperformance.com zzperformance.com


IMG_1662.jpeg
 
Last edited:
RobC76
So the tubular subframe replaces the entire factory subframe, knuckle, and arms or control arms. The cost is 3k
These just replace the factory control arms and give you more suspension adjustability than stock.
I purchased the tubular subframe which is why I’m selling these. Not sure of overall performance gains as I have not ran either setup.
 
A
Mike, Reviews on the DF constructed sub frame have been quite good. These "aftermarket" tubular control arms are an improvement over the stock system But I doubt they are at all comparable to the new subframe and lower control arm mods that do away with the Toe Link Bar. DF's new sub frame was a "clean sheet" design allowing them to build their desired rear suspension configuration, with the only limits being the strut, half shaft outputs and the space this whole new system occupies.
 
RobC76
I would agree
All depends on budget. 2300 more for the tubular subframe. If no one wants them I’ll throw them on cobalt forum I’m sure they won’t last long.
 
Rttoys
Nothing really compares to the new subframe. The new subframe corrects all unwanted movement in the rear, like toe and control arms. The zzp arms will just correct all unwanted control arm movement. If you don’t want to pony up for the subframe, modifying the arms are the next best thing. The tubular ones will be the best you can get.
 
M
I get it. The Subframe is better.

But there are to many variables at the moment. Based on this forum: the front spoiler/splitter should increase stability, there are apparently Goblins out driving great with the regular subframe,... Sounds like the subframe is a short cut to get immediatliy more stability, but I want to make sure that I am not spending $3k for something I could solve somehow else.
 
G
mike_sno said:
I get it. The Subframe is better.

But there are to many variables at the moment. Based on this forum: the front spoiler/splitter should increase stability, there are apparently Goblins out driving great with the regular subframe,... Sounds like the subframe is a short cut to get immediatliy more stability, but I want to make sure that I am not spending $3k for something I could solve somehow else.
Click to expand...
So what are you trying to “solve”?
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Stability, as in handling or 'feel' at speed? The rear suspension geometry is improved by removing the pro-squat of the Cobalt front suspension (the LCA is angled downward toward the front end) and gain a 'neutral' geometry (the LCA is parallel to the ground). I believe Lonny also said he improved the camber gain somewhat, which any gain is better than the marginal camber geometry of the Cobalt. Also having some adjustability to the LCA allows for fine tuning. If you plan to be competitive on the track, the new subframe and suspension are almost a must have. I'm sure @Justinreed7 could provide some experienced commentary. :D
 
Dale E
Read @Sebnuts and @Desert Sasqwatch build logs. They both have done rear subframe/suspension mods, but probably didn't cost as much. The subframe itself isn't that difficult to make. The suspension pieces are the things you have to get right. The subframe is a connector to the working bits, so the working bits are the crucial elements in how it's going to work.

If you want to go a bit farther then an upper control arm and coil over shock arrangement will be on your menu!

Short, answer is Yes, you can make something cheaper that will work equal to or improve the stock Cobalt/Goblin platform!

It's only time and money, building skills or hire out fabrication. Lonny's (DF) has to recoup his time, money, research and development, labor and materials cost, plus building overhead like utilities.

And, in my opinion, the only ones that even need to upgrade the rear suspension are the folks auto crossing and doing track/hill climb events. The street driven Goblin is just fine with the donor parts if they are upgraded with new tight bushings. If you ever were at one of the Goblin meetups or Midwest Sevens meet ups, you would witness the capabilities of the stock Goblin suspension in real time. They handle very well on the public roads. I am impressed with them and other kit built cars abilities at these events. The nut (driver) behind the wheel is the controlling factor. I can let @Rttoys drive my Stalker V6 and it will be way faster than I ever push it. You simply have to know your cars capability and your own abilities.
 
Rttoys
The splitter (or any aero up front) plants the front end, any good control arm mods make the rear better. You just have to find your happy spot.
stock
modified arms
tubular arms
full subframe/suspension replacement.

in stock form, these cars are just fine. Everything you do, makes them better. You just have to find and justify your sweet spot.
 
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