Arizona New DFG Member

Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Greetings,
I am Tim, residing in Arizona in the Valley of the Sun. I have a background in aerospace engineering (systems, electrical, mechanical, powerplant), am an Air Force veteran, and have been a gearhead all my life - drives my wife nuts, but she knew this from the beginning since we first started dating in my '64 Nova SS.

I have been wanting to build a car for quite some time, since I have run out of things to upgrade on my Jeep Wrangler. I finally convinced the boss at home this is an acceptable thing to do - which is 50% of the battle to get this process started as many already know. I was looking at several different cars - Lotus 7 (too expensive), Exocet (not quite what I was looking for) and Nemesis (nearly impossible to register on the street) - when I ran across the Goblin. I researched everything about it and determined this kit fits what I am looking for and a reasonable price to complete.

The decision was made and I have already been in contact with Lonny (thank you for your quick replies and sharing of information) to gain some insight into what I need to do to get started. I plan to build a SS/TC, since I have already ordered a LNF crate motor. I now need to start my search for a SS/TC donor that won't break the bank. Look forward to hearing from you, since it appears the DFG forum group is all about communication and providing help in all aspects of the build process. This should be an interesting and fun adventure.
Thanks, Tim
 
IDRVSLO

IDRVSLO

Goblin Guru
Welcome aboard. Former Army here 03-10 Cav Scout. You will enjoy this!

I went TC with a new LDK also. Search the Cobalt FB pages also, kids are blowing motors left. I paid 2300 for mine with 76k on it and a bad engine. Recouped every dollar back, bumpers, doors, fenders, hood, trunk, seats, wheels, bits and pieces here and there. Tear down is super easy on a perfectly good car.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Started trolling on CoPart to see what may be available for a SS/TC. Guessing it may take some time to find the right donor for the right price.
 
Brian74

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I’m doing an LDK build as well. The hardest part is going to be getting a TC donor. I’ve seen a fair share of SS SC cars but the SS TC donors appear to be few and far between in AZ (In my past numerous searches it appears a lot of them ended up in Mexico). The kids who own these things also seem to think that their aftermarket parts make their cars worth way more than blue book.

Auctions around here are hit & miss. YRMV. I tried a few IAAI auctions in Phoenix. The only two TC Cobalts I found there within 2 months were running; 1 had no damage and was a dealer bid only, the other one had slight rear quarter damage. They bid out at ~$5k and $3k respectively and were pretty competitive.

If you can find a somewhat complete car for sale with a blown up engine, you’re gtg. I see them every so often. Many of the owners would rather part these cars out though because they know they’ll make more money that way.

Otherwise, I would look as far as Californa, Nevada and New Mexico and hit every used online sales website you can find. I’ve also stumbled across a few TC Cobalts that are not in good condition for by sale private owner around the $2k range.

I eventually got fed up with searching for a TC car and took a completely different route. I drove out to Glendale and picked up a slightly parted out 2006 SS SC I found that a kid was selling for $300. This donor was missing quite a few parts, but had a good LSD transmission and very clean & straight subframe. Sold engine (spun rods), headers, and scrapped the rest and made my $300 back. Bought TC crate engine using most of my donor budget.

Going this route is very labor intensive & can get pricey, even after any $ saved on a donor. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are good with electrical and have a lot of time on your hands, lol.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Brian,
This is one of the options I was thinking about, using a SS/SC donor for the build since, as you point out, finding any SS/TC that can be used for a donor - that won't break the bank - is not a common occurrence. Lonny sent me a very comprehensive list of parts that are needed for the TC build and it appears that only some are TC specific and others are shared with the SC build.

I will spend some time reviewing your build log to see where you may have discussed some of the information you allude to in the previous post. If you have any specific info that is for or against going this route, please let me know at your convenience. I do plan to do several items different than the standard TC car, similar to what IDRVSLO did with his TC build. I have already purchased a new crate LNF (coming tomorrow), so my next major purchase will be a donor.
Thanks.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Chad,
Thanks, ran across this one earlier today when I was trolling around on CoPart earlier today. I will keep an eye on it, since there is no date set yet for the auction.
BTW, how do you like the extended city chassis? Any concerns about safety not having the track frame? I'm on the fence if a city or track frame will be my choice once I get to the point I can order my kit.
Thanks.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Chad,
Thanks, ran across this one earlier today when I was trolling around on CoPart earlier today. I will keep an eye on it, since there is no date set yet for the auction.
BTW, how do you like the extended city chassis? Any concerns about safety not having the track frame? I'm on the fence if a city or track frame will be my choice once I get to the point I can order my kit.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Since we really don't do any track functions, it was an easy choice for us. With the extreme low center of gravity, it would be very hard to roll this car short of hitting a curb or something. It still has a roll bar. As far as the extended frame, love it! would not do without it. I like the extra room and now that we have reclining seats, we can stretch out even more. The only thing I would possibly do different is I don't think I would need the easy entry anymore and would like to have the extra protection.

But it's really up to you and what you plan to do with it. If you are going to do a lot of track and drag racing, the track frame is the answer. But if you are mostly street cruising, I like the look and the openness of the city frame.

Oh, one other thing, if you think you want multiple options for the windshield or possibly a top for sunlight cover, the track frame makes it easier for that type of build.
 
Brian74

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Brian,
This is one of the options I was thinking about, using a SS/SC donor for the build since, as you point out, finding any SS/TC that can be used for a donor - that won't break the bank - is not a common occurrence. Lonny sent me a very comprehensive list of parts that are needed for the TC build and it appears that only some are TC specific and others are shared with the SC build.

I will spend some time reviewing your build log to see where you may have discussed some of the information you allude to in the previous post. If you have any specific info that is for or against going this route, please let me know at your convenience. I do plan to do several items different than the standard TC car, similar to what IDRVSLO did with his TC build. I have already purchased a new crate LNF (coming tomorrow), so my next major purchase will be a donor.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
This is off the top of my head from memory. I may be missing a few items, but this is most of it.

Engine parts:

TC SPECIFIC (parts that do not come with your long block and cannot be used from an SC engine)

-intake manifold
-intake manifold bracket
-throttle body
-bypass control valve
-MAP sensors (I recommend Bosch stage 1)
-MAF/IAT sensor
-O2 sensor (probably interchangeable but just buy a new one)
-exhaust downpipe (from turbo)
-inlet flange (to turbo)
-vacuum lines
-injectors/fuel rail (I recommend Opal)
-high pressure fuel line
-high pressure fuel pump
-engine wiring harness (can get for $280 new from GM)
-nuts/bolts/clips

COMPATIBLE WITH ANY OTHER COBALT
-crank sensor adapter plug
-alternator (non SC) & bracket (will need to change connector if 115 amp version)
-starter
-fwd engine mounting block

Chassis TC parts:
-Body wiring harness (to adapt SC to TC you will also need to de-pin old ECM connector and pin a new ECM connector. Bosch pins & E69 ECM connector are available from EFI Connection. Several circuits need to be moved & added and pinned between body to engine and body to fuse block.
-Dash Harness (can be modified from SC to TC)
-TC fuse box mount (not required unless you want your TC ECM to mount to the fuse box mount)
-Several various Aptiv (formerly Delphi) connectors, ie. for engine wiring harness to body harness, ect. Mouser carries these in bulk.
-de pinning & crimping tools (only specific tools work but they are not expensive)
-You can re-pin the SC fuse box connectors to use the SC fuse box with the TC. Much of that requires some careful studying & engineering to utilize the proper circuits and relays. One advantage is having a few extra relays like the SC coolant pump relay which you can utilize if running a liquid cooler)
-Gauge cluster (I think the SC one would probably work; I just remember one minor difference with the pins)
-ECM, BCM & theft module (try and get all three of these from the same TC car due to VATS; LKQ is a good source)
-Fuel pump
-fuel lines (I think; not there yet)

-All FE5 subframe and driveline components, axles & mid-shaft are mostly interchangeable with a few minor differences. I went with 4 on 100mm hubs in order to have more wheel choices.

-I believe all steering columns are compatible, but the EPS ratio is speed sensitive and has different ratios on the SS models.

-Clutch & transmission are interchangeable between SC & TC. SC final drive is slightly higher ratio.

The hardest part was modifying the body and dash harnesses. I’m into that sort of work, though. If you could score an entire body/dash/engine harness and fuse block from a TC car then you’ll be WAY ahead in the process. The problem is that anybody parting out a TC remotely probably cannot be trusted to remove the body & dash harness with care, as it takes time, disassembly & patience to do it properly.

If I could do it all over, I would have found someone parting out a TC and offered reasonable money to come in person and strip the wiring harnesses and fuse box and any other useful non-wear parts from their donor.

The rest wasn’t too bad because several of the parts I had to buy new were wear out parts that I already would have replaced with aftermarket or bought new.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Thanks Brian, this is good information to know going into the review of your build log. I have an electrical engineering background (among others) and working the harness is something I am capable of doing with the right information. Appreciate you taking the time send this too me.
 
Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Turbo fuel pumps are much larger diameter.

Supercharged and N/A cobalts use the same pumps. At least their physical sizes are the same, I don't know if they are the same pressures and capacity.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
An update: I purchased a donor today on Copart in El Paso, a 2008 SS/TC. Hit in the left rear corner and pretty much tweaked the whole chassis - the doors don't close right anymore, but who cares its going into the boneyard anyway. The trunk, hood, doors, interior are all in good shape so they can be resold. Since I have a crate LNF and F40 trans in the garage, I will be looking to sell the donor LNF engine and F35 trans (not sure if its a G85 option). The front of the car is pristine and the engine runs at idle. Got it for a good price and well within my budget (as well as the home boss approval) including delivery to my home in Phoenix. I will be starting a build log very soon.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Chad, if you see this post it is funny that the car on Copart you pointed out to me in your Feb 6 reply above is the one I just bought today. I made several queries to Copart about it and ended up being the only bidder on the online auction, after someone had already pre-bid before the auction yesterday - probably expecting no one else would bite. I'm feeling pretty good about my purchase, but I will have to see what's good and what's bad when it finally arrives at my home. Should be interesting to see if the information I was provided is actually what I bought.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Chad, if you see this post it is funny that the car on Copart you pointed out to me in your Feb 6 reply above is the one I just bought today. I made several queries to Copart about it and ended up being the only bidder on the online auction, after someone had already pre-bid before the auction yesterday - probably expecting no one else would bite. I'm feeling pretty good about my purchase, but I will have to see what's good and what's bad when it finally arrives at my home. Should be interesting to see if the information I was provided is actually what I bought.
Click to expand...
That’s very cool! I want to find out if it will run.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
My query to Copart stated it ran at idle approximately 2 weeks ago. Nothing looks hurt in the front of the car from the rear end collision, so maybe I will luck out and have a good engine and trans in the car.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Never mind. My original post said it didn’t but I wonder if they changed that and the engine now starts.
 
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