Base Model Turbo Install

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by JSATX, Jan 12, 2017.

  1. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    No, I'm not 100% sure. :) I'm going off the assumption that the coolant feed is the cold side, and the return is the hot side. I'm going to steal Tony's picture, and hack it up. Red is feed, and yellow is return.

    Turbo.jpg

    Coolant.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
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  2. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    Edit. It appears you would be correct. The "feed" and "return" terms seem backwards to me. I guess the feed is the hot side.

    Flow.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
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  3. Waterdriver

    Waterdriver Active Member

    Not running a thermostat could cause overheating issues in of itself if a flow restricter is not used and a stock sized radiator.
    Water in the radiator needs to sit in there and get cooled down, then return to the engine.

    If your having cooling issues or require additional cooling, you might consider a radiator with a thicker core or more rows for added cooling for the same square in. sized radiator.
    Or a dual pass radiator. Shifter karts use these types to keep the overall size down and keep the water temp from climbing over 120 degrees. Work awesome but pricey.
     
  4. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    Oh I’m not having cooling issues at all. In fact I have never seen it go above 190° even in the summer. The fan has never turned on. I believe this is largely due to not having a hood/engine compartment retaining heat.
     
  5. Dyno man

    Dyno man Member

    Only time my fan came on was in a parade 30 min not moving. 18 months 11000 miles .No problems
     
  6. Waterdriver

    Waterdriver Active Member

    I was thinking more at a road race track, running WOT, 15-30 minutes with a water cooled turbocharger center section and elevated horsepower.

    A couple of hard pulls here and there you should be OK.
     
  7. DanPerryy

    DanPerryy Well-Known Member

    You guys probably know a lot more of this than I do but when I figured out the thermostat I concluded that the heater flow kept the hot water flowing past the thermostat so the thermostat could sense the temp for opening up allowing the radiator flow cooling the engine. I saw the note about not being able to use the thermostat but I think that we would want to keep the engine temp in a more constant range. Don't know.
     
  8. Adam

    Adam Administrator Staff Member

    Coolant Flow with Hoses Looped (or with a heater core)
    On a cold start with the thermostat closed, almost all of the water exits the engine through the port on the rear of the cylinder head and goes to the passenger side heater hose tube. The coolant passes by the temperature sensor at this point. The water exits the first heater hose tube and either goes to our hose loop or to a heater core. It then returns through the driver side heater hose tube. The hot water from this tube strikes the back side of the thermostat and begins to heat it up.

    water flow arrows.jpg

    heater tube to thermostat flow arrow.jpg

    When the water striking the thermostat is hot enough, the thermostat opens and water begins to flow from the passenger end of the cylinder head, up to the radiator and then back to the thermostat. Even after the thermostat is open, you still get coolant flow from the driver end of the cylinder head through the heater hoses.

    Coolant Flow with the Heater Tubes Capped/Plugged
    If the heater tubes are blocked off, the only flow you have early on is through the small bypass holes in the thermostat. Instead of getting hot water hitting the thermostat early on, you will have a small flow of cool water passing by. The thermostat will stay closed much longer than before because the only water it is seeing is the cool water. The hot water from the engine will slowly work its way to the front, through the radiator and back to the thermostat. The flow of this hot water will be restricted by the thermostat. There is no telling how hot your engine will get before the thermostat finally opens. Perhaps heat will find its way to the thermostat from the cylinder head heating the thermostat housing but you will still have a large supply of cool water from the radiator slowly passing by the thermostat to cool it off.

    You would never have water flowing past the engine coolant temperature sensor so your readings won't be as accurate.

    Finally, it is possible the engineers that designed the passages inside the block and head took into account that water would be exiting near the thermostat housing. Without that opening, the water may not flow as they intended and you could end up with a stagnate area on the driver side of the block and head.

    We recommend looping the hoses to maintain the coolant flow as the engineers originally intended it to be.
     
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  9. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    This exactly matches what I found out this weekend. Adam beat me to it.

    Now my question is if it’s safe to use the heater loop to cool the turbo. The downside being the water is a little hotter than what comes from the radiator. The upside being a very easy routing job.
     
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  10. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    Dumb question, but what happens to the flow when the climate control temp knob is off? I would assume that no water would flow between those two hoses. Or is there bypass in the core?
     
  11. George

    George Active Member

    the heater core always has flow, door in HAVC deside whre air flows

    Brad
     
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  12. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    Right. Water continuously flows through core. The climate controls turn the blower off and on.
     
  13. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    With the housing back on the block, I took a peek inside on the other heater hose, and you can clearly see that it was designed to channel water into the heater core as soon as it comes out of the block. Just like what Adam said. It's not obvious with it off the block because all you see then is a bunch openings that lead to a common area.

    Too bad I already tapped threads into mine. I guess I'll have to buy some NPT fittings and put a bypass hose back on.
     
  14. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    I just got these for my turbo you could get them and just connect a hose between. 1/2npt to 1/2barb 5770D8B1-A31A-4B35-9618-E48C514D0293.jpeg
     
  15. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

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