Friedhouse #346 Extended 2007 SS donor

Friedhouse

Member
It's been along process to get here, and I wasn't really interested in spending the time to make a build log, but now I see that I need to have one, because I need some help figuring things out!

My name is Shane, and my Son and I decided we wanted to try and take on a car build, he is more into the idea of restoring old cars, but I thought the process of building a kit car would get us both some much needed car and mechanical knowledge, but also potentially be easier with instructional videos to follow along with.

May 2021 -We bought a donor-

2007 Cobalt SS w/ 140k $2800


Car ran great, and we actually drove it from Provo, UT down to Las Vegas, NV and started tearing it down shortly after. Tear down went fairly smooth.

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November 2021 The goblin arrives.

Took me a little bit to figure out the powder coating situation, ended up getting hooked up with a family friend that works for a iron fencing company and they blasted the goblin and parts I wanted in a nice satin black for FREE! Can't beat that. While waiting for the goblin to arrive, I sold off a bunch of parts to locals, the aftermarket bits went quick, and managed to sell the hood, and some other stock parts to recover about$1800 in total.

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January 2022 - March 2022


Wife and I decided we both wanted to start working towards a 'mid-life' career change into the Tech space. So we started up an online Coding boot camp geared towards Web/Mobile development. Little did I know how much time that would require. Coding started to take up 99% of my time outside of work and family. The goblin build took a backseat, and I was able to work on it hear and there, but was definitely not able to dedicate large chunks of time. I decided to send the wiring harness out to have DF get it done, mean while I managed to do some simple installed in the front of the car, and get most of everything in the Stage 1 kit installed.


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March - April 2022 Engine maintenance

I was debating whether or not to open up the engine and just do a timing chain change, I'm not super savvy as a mechanic and the idea of it was a bit daunting. I decided to go ahead and do it though, and boy am I glad I did. Found one of the timing chain guides was broken into multiple pieces, bolt head was sheared off and no where in sight. Great. Was able to tap out the sheared off bolt, and changed out the water pump for a new one, as well as the whole timing chain kit. Painted the headcover as well, because why not. After mounting the engine to the goblin, I dropped the oil pan and found several more bits of bolt heads, metal, and timing chain guide.

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April 2022 - Present

Ordered stage 2/3, took a little bit to get here. Coding school got REALLY intense, and wasn't able to do a lot with the car. The wife and I have been tooling around with the idea of moving the family back east, and I have thought more than once about just putting up this half finished Goblin for sale. I told myself if I can just dedicate at least half of a Sunday, I can get this thing on at least 4 wheels and be ready to tow if needed. It has been much harder without any videos as guidance, I feel like I'm moving at a snails pace when I work one the car, but trial and error makes us all learn faster right?

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Thus concludes the journey so far! It's been a lot of fun figuring out how things go together. Too much time was lost between me breaking the donor down and building up the goblin. I feel like if that time frame was closer, and I had more free time, this stage 2/3 section would have been a lot smoother. Now comes the onslaught of questions I will have to get this thing going! Appreciate any and all of your guys help now and in the future of this thread!
 

Friedhouse

Member
QUESTIONS!

Does anyone know the part number for the 3 bolts used in the steering knuckles? My box of misc hardware doesn't seem to have anything the resembles what is needed.

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These are some new 4x100 rear hubs. What size and type of nuts do I need to use for these to bolt up to the adapter plate on the front suspension? I have used some class 10 m10x1.50 nuts, but they stripped the bolt and ruined two of the bolts pointed in the picture. Don't know if at this point I should just buy another hub or figure out if they sell those replacement double sided bolts somewhere?

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I know the big plug goes to the fuel pump, and the small grey one goes to the coolant overflow tank, but does anyone know where the green plug goes?

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I'm not sure what the following items go to.

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Not sure where these brackets go?

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or this one?

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Also, how the heck do I install the coolant overflow tank?? Every picture I see seems to be the old version where it had a welded out arm attaching to the tank...

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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Welcome to the forum. :)

I can't readily help you with sizes/part numbers of the nuts and bolts you asked about, but I can tell you the following:

The green connector is for the ambient temp sensor.

The pair of round aluminum adapters are for the stock struts. You don't need them if you go with the BC coilovers.

The two angled brackets are provided for the rear wing. I did not use mine because they didn't fit the wing I got.

The last bracket, along with an included but not pictured spring, is used to mount the coolant tank.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Threads on the hubs, at least the part the nuts go on are a metric course thread, so if you got a M10 nut to go on then they are M10x1.5. It does seem like a lot of the hubs come with crappy studs that are easy to strip so you have to be careful and not overtighten. Makes you wonder how they hold up to the abuse they see on a full weight car. I'm not sure what the hub side thread is. I would have guessed it's the same M10 but the picture appears larger, so maybe M12. If they are stripped anyway, unscrew it and see.
 

Matt C

Active Member
QUESTIONS!

Does anyone know the part number for the 3 bolts used in the steering knuckles? My box of misc hardware doesn't seem to have anything the resembles what is needed.

View attachment 34492


These are some new 4x100 rear hubs. What size and type of nuts do I need to use for these to bolt up to the adapter plate on the front suspension? I have used some class 10 m10x1.50 nuts, but they stripped the bolt and ruined two of the bolts pointed in the picture. Don't know if at this point I should just buy another hub or figure out if they sell those replacement double sided bolts somewhere?

View attachment 34493


I know the big plug goes to the fuel pump, and the small grey one goes to the coolant overflow tank, but does anyone know where the green plug goes?

View attachment 34494



I'm not sure what the following items go to.

View attachment 34495

Not sure where these brackets go?

View attachment 34496


or this one?

View attachment 34497


Also, how the heck do I install the coolant overflow tank?? Every picture I see seems to be the old version where it had a welded out arm attaching to the tank...

View attachment 34498
Welcome! Here is a picture of the bracket used to mount the coolant bottle.
 

Attachments

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I think that the nuts I used to attach the Cobalt rear hubs to the Goblin front uprights were M8x1.25 distorted thread locknuts.
 

Friedhouse

Member
Things have been looking good, but I have some questions on the following circled connections. What do they connect to? I know I have a somewhat rigid tube coming from the engine through the tunnel cover that I assume is supposed to hook up to the break booster, but it just seems too small of a tube. The connect coming off of the brake reservoir, and clutch master cylinder have me confused too.

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Also the negative battery terminal. Should I hook the ground in between the kickplate or is the somewhere else I should look to put it?


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Lastly here is an update with how she stands now!

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k.rollin

Goblin Guru
The nipple that you have circled on the brake fluid reservoir is the fluid feed to your clutch master cylinder. The nylon line coming out of the tunnel gets a section of hose clamped to it, and the hose connects to the circled fitting on the brake booster.

Your negative battery cable goes from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and connects to the ground stud on the side of the battery tray (it's visible in your photo; has the two nuts stacked on it).
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Black nylon from engine through tunnel to brake booster.

reservoir to clutch master
77466EBB-3964-4EA9-8505-1286B3CCA53D.jpeg


black stud highlighted in yellow is your ground. Blue line highlights where the wire should go.
5C3F456F-9C26-4680-AB19-F0A2C459B64B.jpeg
 

Friedhouse

Member
Does the top connection on the brake reservoir get connected to anything, or is it just capped?

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I believe this is the EVAP solenoid circled? I seemed to have broken off the tubing that attaches to this. Do I need a new one to pass emissions I assume, also where does that tube connect to?

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Ross

Goblin Guru
The top of the reservoir doesn't go anywhere (put a paperclip down it - it stops before the reservoir), so no need to connect it. I cut it off.
I didn't need to pass emissions in Arkansas, so I just eliminated the evap solenoid.
 

Friedhouse

Member
The top of the reservoir doesn't go anywhere (put a paperclip down it - it stops before the reservoir), so no need to connect it. I cut it off.
I didn't need to pass emissions in Arkansas, so I just eliminated the evap solenoid.
Do you live in NW Arkansas @Ross ? Family and I are planning to move down there before the end of the year. Would be cool to meet up
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I don’t think that is the evap solenoid in the second picture, at least I can’t pick out the electrical connector that it should have.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I do. It would be good to have another builder in the area. If your in town, give me a call! 479-640-9941
Gtstorey, that is the evap solenoid, at least it was on my LSJ.
 
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