My suspension geometry is quite a bit different than the stock DF setup, and there is a left and a right.
The stock DF parts are identical. I can put some "stock" geometry models together that use the same FK bearing if you want.
LaunchPad & OldB1's technology demonstrator -09 SS donar- #109
The stock DF parts are identical. I can put some "stock" geometry models together that use the same FK bearing if you want.
Here's an image of a symmetrical mount that would have the equivalent geometry to the stock DF setup (same parts left and right), but uses a COM10 spherical bearing and cup. Custom spacers are required as well. The stock adapter piece that goes between the spring hat and the stock mount can be turned down and reused.
Or a full billet aluminum version would be the bees knees
Or a full billet aluminum version would be the bees knees
If these go into production, might consider trying to make the mountin holes slightly slotted or some way to add inserts to decrease rear camber. Or maybe just make the piece a little bit longer to since most of us have struggled to decrease camber enough and I don’t think anyone has had a problem getting enough camber.
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
Either you were just waiting for a builder or you are really dang good and speedy with the CAD! i agree the Aluminum billet would be the bees knees as a phase 2 test. makes me want to run out the shop and put in time on assembling the MR-1. . . except at the wife's house for the weekend and she has already been giving me THE activity schedule. oy.
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
On first thoughts I REALLY like the idea for adjustability. i am a huge fan of being able to tweak things for drivers' preference. however, on second thought is see some possible concerns for how quickly things can go awry. so, bear with me. . . we have 3 holes to slot in order to allow in and out adjustability. at the same time those holes are going to allow for quite a bit of rotational misalignment around any one of the bolt holes having more compressive torque than the others . . . just in assembly letting the tops of the struts be out of alignment forward or backward. under use because of the length of the "arm" (or plate/bracket) any forces sent up the strut are going to be magnified raising the potential for instant pothole induced misalignment. i think the ideas could sure work but we will have to account for how the heck we align things and the HUGE amount of clamping torque/ bare metal or surface finish between parts or i think we will be introducing a weaker link than say the existing top mount of the strut?
i am not sure my wording captured what i see in my head at the moment, please forgive me if this is the case.
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
Sebnuts,
is the bottom of this plate square to bore of the bearing housing AND the bolt holes?
I am asking because the MR-1 is only a 3-axis mill and am thinking about the various operations. and re-fixturing that would be necessary if not. for the most part I think my machine is big enough to cut 4 of these at a time out of a single piece of billet (if we find said billet available) but to do the bearing cup counter bore we would have to flip the parts over and re-index on the machine. if the hole bores are not parallel that would be a third re-index and each case could be a source of rendering the parts unusable.
I have no clue what cut times would be at the moment and at least 10 days of concrete and then epoxy surface curing time before the mill can even be completed as per machine assembly instructions (crazy huge undertaking) - so best case is 1 Nov for the machine to be running. . .if you wanted to know cut times MR-1 should have a post processor for SolidWorks. I know they do for fusion 360
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
Yes, I agree! should this get so far as to go beyond a few test pieces produced absolute 100%.
my shop kid moved away, and my "mentors" are in their 80s and stepping back from things so I am currently a 1-man shop. I am happy to help but I would never be able to totally keep up with any sort of production demands and as far as I am concerned these parts are Sebnuts intellectual property.
That said. . . if the machine is not running, I am wasting my investment in it too- so happy to share some capability as long as it doesn't derail my other work.
What kind of camber are most of you shooting for in the rear? What kind of ranges do you get out of the BC racing coilovers? I know they already have a slot for adjustment, but not sure what you can get out of them with all else being stock. Do you guys not like running the cam bolts for increasing camber adjustment range in the rear for some reason?
It was similar to what I had modelled up for mine, so didn't take long to make it DF "stock".
Yes, all of the hole axes are perpendicular to the top and bottom of the mount plate, so you would only have to do 2 machine setups.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Desired rear camber range is -0.5 degrees to -3 degrees.
The camber adjustment in the rear is the slots on the 2 bolts at the bottom of the shocks. Seems to work well without the need to slot the top of shock mount. Just my opinion and guess, as I have never played with slotted top mounts. Easy enough to enlongate the bottom slots, if wanted.
The camber adjustment in the rear is the slots on the 2 bolts at the bottom of the shocks. Seems to work well without the need to slot the top of shock mount. Just my opinion and guess, as I have never played with slotted top mounts. Easy enough to enlongate the bottom slots, if wanted.
OldB1
New Member
Sebnuts,
Are the clearance pieces to the ball joint (the ones above and below the bearing) standard parts or something you designed?
Also, do you think you could shoot LP the files so he can 3d print a sample for me to hold in my hand?
-OLDB1
I've been meaning to follow up on this one. I think you might be overestimating the precision that the mounts are located at as delivered. Just judging by how other portions of the frame have moved during welding, and the lack of precision of the lower subframe and tolerance stack up of everything involved, I would expect there could be over 0.25" of variance already. And I could see it possibly being twice that.
I designed and manufactured those spacers for myself. I couldn't find anything off the shelf that would work in that location.
I can send him the files later this evening.
OldB1
New Member
Thank you
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
@Gtstorey
What he said! preferred location to adjust camber is on the "knuckle"/ lower end of the strut with eccentric bolts. double down for more (facing opposite directions). lol
here are the better of the choice of existing parts:
amazon.com/gp/product/B000HPNWAI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
moving the top of the strut forward or backward- a different direction to slot the mounts . . . . may be handy for anti-squat tho not so sure how useful that really would be. I kind of expect that Goblin designers got it in the ballpark. while some of my other projects could very benefit from the discussion someday I pretty much want to assemble my Goblin by the book right now.
They didn't. Here is the stock geometry info I posted.
LaunchPad
Well-Known Member
While not directly relevant to this build log, but potentially much more relevant to some of the suspension side discussions. . . .I burned up a kitchen pass on Saturday and OldB1 was made late to the Cornhusker game to pour the concrete in the MR-1 CNC milling machine- OldB1 did all the mixing (8-60lb bags) by HAND and I did the lifting and toting! I am sore and worn out but he is MUCH older than I am and thankfully that much tougher too. Thank you a ton OldB1!!
The concrete needs to cure for AT LEAST a week then I can pour the epoxy topcoat which take another week to cure before I can assemble the rest of the machine. Assembly of this mill feels a lot more involved than a Goblin assembly. lol
Based on the Pro-thane bushings as a representative example of what needs to be produced in Derlin. . . . I am currently shopping for (affordable) Derlin sheets/slabs in 1" inch to 1.25" thickness to bulk machine bushings out once the MR-1 is online. I figure cutting a dozen or so bushings (3 cars worth) at a time on the mill top down in a sheet would be a lot more effective use of my time than turning one at a time by hand on one of my manual lathes. . .
The concrete needs to cure for AT LEAST a week then I can pour the epoxy topcoat which take another week to cure before I can assemble the rest of the machine. Assembly of this mill feels a lot more involved than a Goblin assembly. lol
Based on the Pro-thane bushings as a representative example of what needs to be produced in Derlin. . . . I am currently shopping for (affordable) Derlin sheets/slabs in 1" inch to 1.25" thickness to bulk machine bushings out once the MR-1 is online. I figure cutting a dozen or so bushings (3 cars worth) at a time on the mill top down in a sheet would be a lot more effective use of my time than turning one at a time by hand on one of my manual lathes. . .