Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

Discussion in 'Build Logs' started by TheNuker, Jul 6, 2016.

  1. Waterdriver

    Waterdriver Well-Known Member

    For your heat exchanger, is there a petcock or bleeder bolt on the top end of it? If not we're going to have to add one or some other way to bleed out air. The trapped air won't flow back to the reservoir. Some will but not all. The pump is electric and a constant rpm. Higher engine revs won't purge out air in the intercooler system.

    I see from an earlier pic you posted, both incoming and outgoing lines enter from the bottom. This might be the issue and I think your heat exchanger could be half full of air.

    I think the only way to purge it fully, without a air bleed, is to unmount it from the radiator, turn it over and lossen the line going back to intercooler to let air out and coolant to fill the void until it starts coming out the lossened connection. Making a mess of course.

    Ultimately a bleed bolt or petcock added to the top of the H.E. is needed to make it simple to bleed.

    Or a different H.E. with coolant inlet entering at the bottom, coolant exit at the top. It would be better but would still have air trapped in the outgoing hose since it still has to be routed down below the height of the H.E.
    But then you could leave that upper line disconnected and have a helper fill the intercooler system with coolant until it gets the top of the H.E. and the coolant line.

    I know, I'm long winded. That's what my wife tells me.
    Hope it helps. I've got a ways to go before I have that road to cross.
  2. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Did you check your pump to make sure it's working. ZZP made comment that they often fail. I checked mine the other day on the bench and sure enough, DEAD! I tore it open to find out the brushes are worn completely out. Check around when buying a new one if that is the case. RockAuto wanted $300 for a new one but I could get the OEM original elsewhere for $89.

    I'm curious of your heat exchanger setup. I cannot see it in any photo. Since I will be having one also. The factory unit was huge but thin! I can't image this unit being so small and working well. I bought a gauge to monitor the intake air temps (IAT) to make sure they are within range. But since the pump was not working and who knows for how long, any damage may be done already.

    I have to tell you, I am fascinated by your posts! That is a long trip in that car I can only imagine. I myself am looking to make the same trip to get the frame in this fall.
  3. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    I also forgot to mention that the tune the ZZP does turns on the H.E. pump all the time with the ignition which leads one to believe that it's not normally on and may be monitored and turned on as needed. As quickly as the pump goes out, not sure if being on all the time is the best for the pump, may drastically shorten the life of the pump. I like the idea of a switch on it to be able to control it, I just haven't decided if it's that important.
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2017
  4. Johvans

    Johvans Well-Known Member

    Can you post more pictures of your shifter assembly and where the cables attach to the transmission?

  5. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    I think the turbo kit runs the same Bosch pump so this has me worried a bit. It seems to have good reviews on Zzps site.

    You'd think that they would have to run continuously. I was going to wire mine to the now uenused ABS power circuit so that it goes on/off with the ignition.

    What kind of IAT sensor did you find?
  6. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Check yours. Good piece of mind.
    Briann1177 likes this.
  7. Waterdriver

    Waterdriver Well-Known Member

    Nuker, were you able to diagnose your heat exchanger issue?
    Curious to know what you were able to find out.
  8. TheNuker

    TheNuker Well-Known Member

    Got the heat exchanger bleed. I ended up taking the hose off the cold side, and put it in a big bucket. Then added a large reservoir to the top of the coolant add port. Put about 1/2 gallon in the reservoir, Manually powered the pump until it was shooting out coolant into the bucket and turned it off. Re-attached the cold side hose. Opened the air port on the coolant add fluid port and continued pumping until coolant also blew out of the air port right next to the fill port.

    I have not drove it yet as it has been in the low 50s in the AM and screw that noise! But I'm thinking that it is pretty solid now.

    I also got tired of the headlights even with LED lamps they were just throwing light everwhere blinding people, while not putting a lot of light where I needed it.

    So what do you do? Make your own!

    I got these guys yesterday along with some CREE led chips and boost converter LED drivers. I'm going to work on building some custom LED headlights with projector lens over the next week.

    Parts so far

    I'm going to modify the projectors to mount the LED chips and design/3d print a case to hold the back side, But I'm going to use the stock lights you can buy with the goblin and just cut the back off to house the LED heatsink.
    The LEDs will be slightly under driven at 37volts and should produce around 8k lumens each. Your typical headlights in say a BMW produce around 2700lm on high beam :D


    SliderR1 likes this.
  9. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    I was thinking of doing something much like that also. Do you think the heat produced by the lamps will cause any problem with the PLA material used to 3D print them? I've had some problems in the past with it getting soft with heat.
  10. TheNuker

    TheNuker Well-Known Member

    Should be no problem, I'm going to print it in Nylon. Those are hard up to around 200C. The LED chips should roast around 120c for a long period, So I think it will be okay!

  11. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    I'll be following. Keep us posted!
  12. RichN

    RichN Well-Known Member

    I'm curious about your alignment or front spring set-up.
    You mentioned in the Brakes thread that you were going 90+mph. Anytime I go over 50, my front end feels like it is "floating" and I do not feel safe.
    I have turned both tie rod ends in 3/4 turn from straight on and I turned up the spring a full turn.
    What have you done?
  13. George

    George Well-Known Member

    Nuker, I would like to get your car on my alignment rack. We can do it on a weekend

  14. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    I'm interested to see what you come up with. Without 3D printer access, my design is not bad, but I may be interested in purchasing a pair of yours if they turn out good.
  15. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    I have been looking into this also and found some options but all of the projectors that I'm seeing display a full round pattern. For highway use, they should display a cut-off line where as no (or little) light it in the direction of oncoming traffic. I'm having a heck of a time trying to find out if they produce a full pattern or a proper highway pattern. Oddly, the ones on my Can Am Renegade 4x4 ATV, actually produce the proper pattern. I did find one that HELLA makes, but it's just way too expensive at $600.


    This is the pattern they should have.

  16. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    I believe you're looking for something like this:

    They also have a Morimoto version for a bit more. Unfortunately they both seem to have the same downside as the Bixenons I have, which is that they are not sealed, so they need an enclosure of some kind.
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2017
    ctuinstra likes this.
  17. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Yep! That's more like it. I will check into that more. Price it more inline with what I'm looking for too. I don't want cheap Chinese junk, I don't need $600 overpriced units. I believe this is for two.

  18. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    I know Morimoto products are solid, and as far as I can tell, Profile is a new subsidiary of Morimoto that just does LED. TRS is a great company too, though I'd definitely recommend just calling them if you have questions or need help. Email/chat seems less helpful.
  19. David

    David Well-Known Member

    I could testify for morimoto they are good quality I used them for my 04 tundra for the headlights and fog if I recall I used the mini for the fog lights and the Bi-xenon Mini D2s stage 3 with the 50 w ballast and they are bright and they will not blind incoming traffic because they are made not too that's the route I'm going to take I'm going to find a nice looking housing and take it apart in the oven and retro the projector in them
  20. TheNuker

    TheNuker Well-Known Member

    Headlights are coming along, I'm building a small 4 axis cnc router to make some custom parts I need for the headlights. This is turning into more of a total custom headlight instead of a retrofit lol... But it is cold so I can't drive anyway.

    Next week I'll drop off the spoiler uprights / passenger kick plate and Windscreen metal bracket for powder coating. After that i'm going to look at what I want to do with the nose. Local places asking around 1200-1400 for a wrap in CF/neon green stripe. But I have a buddy with an automotive paint shop so I might just paint it gloss black with a neon green stripe.

    Tony and George like this.

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