Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor

Discussion in 'Build Logs' started by TheNuker, Jul 6, 2016.

  1. Waterdriver

    Waterdriver Member

    For your heat exchanger, is there a petcock or bleeder bolt on the top end of it? If not we're going to have to add one or some other way to bleed out air. The trapped air won't flow back to the reservoir. Some will but not all. The pump is electric and a constant rpm. Higher engine revs won't purge out air in the intercooler system.

    I see from an earlier pic you posted, both incoming and outgoing lines enter from the bottom. This might be the issue and I think your heat exchanger could be half full of air.

    I think the only way to purge it fully, without a air bleed, is to unmount it from the radiator, turn it over and lossen the line going back to intercooler to let air out and coolant to fill the void until it starts coming out the lossened connection. Making a mess of course.

    Ultimately a bleed bolt or petcock added to the top of the H.E. is needed to make it simple to bleed.

    Or a different H.E. with coolant inlet entering at the bottom, coolant exit at the top. It would be better but would still have air trapped in the outgoing hose since it still has to be routed down below the height of the H.E.
    But then you could leave that upper line disconnected and have a helper fill the intercooler system with coolant until it gets the top of the H.E. and the coolant line.

    I know, I'm long winded. That's what my wife tells me.
    Hope it helps. I've got a ways to go before I have that road to cross.
  2. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Did you check your pump to make sure it's working. ZZP made comment that they often fail. I checked mine the other day on the bench and sure enough, DEAD! I tore it open to find out the brushes are worn completely out. Check around when buying a new one if that is the case. RockAuto wanted $300 for a new one but I could get the OEM original elsewhere for $89.

    I'm curious of your heat exchanger setup. I cannot see it in any photo. Since I will be having one also. The factory unit was huge but thin! I can't image this unit being so small and working well. I bought a gauge to monitor the intake air temps (IAT) to make sure they are within range. But since the pump was not working and who knows for how long, any damage may be done already.

    I have to tell you, I am fascinated by your posts! That is a long trip in that car I can only imagine. I myself am looking to make the same trip to get the frame in this fall.
  3. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    I also forgot to mention that the tune the ZZP does turns on the H.E. pump all the time with the ignition which leads one to believe that it's not normally on and may be monitored and turned on as needed. As quickly as the pump goes out, not sure if being on all the time is the best for the pump, may drastically shorten the life of the pump. I like the idea of a switch on it to be able to control it, I just haven't decided if it's that important.
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2017 at 9:12 PM
  4. Johvans

    Johvans Well-Known Member

    Can you post more pictures of your shifter assembly and where the cables attach to the transmission?

  5. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Active Member

    I think the turbo kit runs the same Bosch pump so this has me worried a bit. It seems to have good reviews on Zzps site.

    You'd think that they would have to run continuously. I was going to wire mine to the now uenused ABS power circuit so that it goes on/off with the ignition.

    What kind of IAT sensor did you find?
  6. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Check yours. Good piece of mind.
    Briann1177 likes this.

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