Stretch’s ext. track goblin #386 SS/TC

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Got a wing for Christmas. Winglogic’s 70 is about the width of the car but it completely changes the look. I ordered rear coilovers as well so now I should be able to get it dialed in a little better.
9599C240-9000-4F5E-803C-FE68074C6F8D.jpeg7864AA30-D7AF-404A-A8D6-59C540813AA8.jpeg
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
The wing helped a bit with the suspension unloading after letting off at high speed so I’m hoping coilovers in the back and going up a few clicks gets rid of that.
As for the head boy racer of the goblin community I guess I’ll have to add stickers and oreilly auto stick-ons lol.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
A couple weeks ago I started to get a chatter from the engine and I suspect it was the timing chain. I changed both chains tonight with new guides and tensioners. This can be done with the motor in the car if anyone is wondering.
36B66CF7-0CD7-4D8E-97E7-1B7F052165B9.jpeg1D77A117-C613-4BA9-B281-471E08FE29E0.jpeg
I’ll be able to test it Thursday and pray everything is on right lol. All the marks line up and it seemed pretty straightforward. I also learned that you have to put the new chain on the cam sprockets, then sprockets onto cams.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
A couple weeks ago I started to get a chatter from the engine and I suspect it was the timing chain. I changed both chains tonight with new guides and tensioners. This can be done with the motor in the car if anyone is wondering.
View attachment 37926View attachment 37927
I’ll be able to test it Thursday and pray everything is on right lol. All the marks line up and it seemed pretty straightforward. I also learned that you have to put the new chain on the cam sprockets, then sprockets onto cams.
Is there room to pull the water pump for replacement?
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Is there room to pull the water pump for replacement?
I’m not fully sure just because the holding tool might be too wide to fit in between the chassis and engine. If it fits I’m sure it would cause the water pump falls out of the other side. But you need the holding tool so the gear doesn’t fall further down the case
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Finished up putting the turbo plumbing back on and gave the car fresh oil. Startup was nerve racking but it runs great. Hopefully the rear coilovers will go on soon.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Finally got coils for the back. Trying to line up camber took a minute but it’s all back together. I’m running 5 clicks in the front and 8 in the back (soft) but I only drove it for a minute before rain.
B2F3AB0A-7303-4952-AA08-45E470F83275.jpeg
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Finally got coils for the back. Trying to line up camber took a minute but it’s all back together. I’m running 5 clicks in the front and 8 in the back (soft) but I only drove it for a minute before rain.
View attachment 37989
How crazy can you go with camber on these? I basically destroyed my rears because of uneven wear due to excessive camber (even with camber bolts) on stock cobalt coilovers.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
How crazy can you go with camber on these? I basically destroyed my rears because of uneven wear due to excessive camber (even with camber bolts) on stock cobalt coilovers.
I have the fronts around .5 and the back at 1.7. If they wear more than I’d like I’ll try to bring it closer to 1. I had about 1.2 all around before but just changed it so I’ll see how it goes the next week.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The front suspension has sufficient camber gain, so the 0.5 degree setting should be perfect for the street and give even tread wear across the tire face. The rear suspension, on the other hand, does not have sufficient camber gain due the McPherson struts - thus the reason the rear camber is set at 1.2ish negative. When the body rolls, the camber gain is supposed to accommodate this change in angle and keep the tire contact patch flat. The struts cannot match the body roll angle and lose camber to become positive with the roll angle. Even starting with negative camber, and in a hard turn, the wheel/tire will angle outward. This is an unfortunate characteristic of the struts.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Yep. Rear camber is what it is. With stock strut bolts and such, -1.2 to -1.8 seems to be the norm for the rear.

front -.5 to -.8 is great for the street and even track.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Yep. Rear camber is what it is. With stock strut bolts and such, -1.2 to -1.8 seems to be the norm for the rear.

front -.5 to -.8 is great for the street and even track.
The last time I went to an autocross meet it seemed about right for my tires/ grip level. I could see scrubbing on the side at the top of the little indicator on the tire.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
I put on a new fx400 clutch and a zzp aluminum flywheel last night. Ended up fighting with the transmission to get back on and found out one of the holes for the “dowel” that holds the aluminum spacer in place was burred. That also led to the transmission being crooked and hurting some threads on the motor so it looks like I’ll be finding a tap or making one.
The old clutch setup was definitely on its way out with two of the springs being loose and what if assuming is rust and clutch material. Clutch wasn’t down to the rivets but it was very close. The flywheel was in pretty good shape too, didn’t really see any hot spots.
614CD86A-F265-4A4C-849D-D758B4CE94B6.jpeg
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Got to meet MX184 on the Orlando solo run. Had a hard time finding a good line and where yo brake with the looser surface. Still fun but might do the practice class next time for more runs. This was my second run with a 28.8.
OCCC Autocross 2/12/23
 
Top