Stretch’s ext. track goblin #386 SS/TC
- Thread starter Stretch2126
- Start date
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
So far I like it. It takes a bit to get used to starting from a standstill with the new clutch and it’s definitely more noisy on the trans but shifting is much more enjoyable. If your car is already together I don’t think it’s worth the teardown just for that but if you’re doing a clutch at the same time or if the trans is out anyway I’d recommend it.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
AutoX at Daytona was awesome. A kart track with winding turns and pretty much zero cones makes for a fun track.
Track time is always fun though.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
I recently got a hold of the proportional valve kit. Pretty easy to toss in. Now I just have to bleed the brakes. I hit the brake pedal knowing the fronts would be soft but the rears don’t feel like they’re hardy working. Maybe that’s just because it’s off and the whole system probably needs to be bled but I’m hoping this prop valve helps a lot with the fronts locking up hard.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
I bled the brakes and wow it does make a difference. The pedal has a lot better feedback and you can actually get into the pressure with confidence.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
Since buying the aero force gauge I’m on the quest for cool air. Before I move the intake I’m curious to see if this will help.
I have a “scoop” used as a deflector between the radiator and heat exchanger and it seems to work well. I ordered another to put underneath the car to help the puller fan while it’s rolling. Being able to see KR, iats, and AFR makes me feel better about this heat.
I have a “scoop” used as a deflector between the radiator and heat exchanger and it seems to work well. I ordered another to put underneath the car to help the puller fan while it’s rolling. Being able to see KR, iats, and AFR makes me feel better about this heat.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
No good. Looks like I found the coolant leak.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
That wasn’t the leak. Compression test was great. I think it may just be a hose connection somewhere.
Turkey rod runs are coming up in Daytona and I plan on being there Saturday. This regions last SCCA solo event is 12/02 and MX184 and I are close in points so it should be a fun finale.
Turkey rod runs are coming up in Daytona and I plan on being there Saturday. This regions last SCCA solo event is 12/02 and MX184 and I are close in points so it should be a fun finale.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
Going through interesting issues.
1. Coolant fan has never kicked on even with the start temp set at 192. I may have wired it wrong being that I had two different blue wires leading to the fuse box? Neither of them had any power even once the car was hot enough to kick on the fan.
2. O2 sensor is “reading” but is showing no MV on one side of hptuners and saying 230 on the graph everywhere? I checked the grounds and I have a new O2 sensor. It keeps going into cl-fault, wanted to adjust the tune but then realized the o2 is inaccurate from being 0mv all the time.
I’m just kinda lost with it and wonder if it could be a pcm issue or I’m just missing something.
1. Coolant fan has never kicked on even with the start temp set at 192. I may have wired it wrong being that I had two different blue wires leading to the fuse box? Neither of them had any power even once the car was hot enough to kick on the fan.
2. O2 sensor is “reading” but is showing no MV on one side of hptuners and saying 230 on the graph everywhere? I checked the grounds and I have a new O2 sensor. It keeps going into cl-fault, wanted to adjust the tune but then realized the o2 is inaccurate from being 0mv all the time.
I’m just kinda lost with it and wonder if it could be a pcm issue or I’m just missing something.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
Thanks that helps one at least. I have a short somewhere or in the pcm. It’s odd since it still recognizes the sensor since it goes to OL once I unplug it and when it’s back in it returns to cl fault.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Short: 1st place to look is the wire harness and connectors that has been modified. 2nd place to look is the O2 sensor, check for a direct short (zero ohms) between the connector pins. 3rd place (and the least likely) is a problem with the PCM. The O2 sensor needs to be working before tuning.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
I have a multimeter but I’ll have to see if it has smaller ends to fit in the plug. I guess the fan might be shorted but I don’t even know if my wiring was correct the whole time. The video shows one coolant fan wire and I had two when I got the harness. It wasn’t linked in to the 30amp fuse block.
I didn't really tie this back to you post on "LNF trims". I just studied your logs and tune and commented in that thread. I'm not sure what you should be checking for o2 voltage in the LNF pids, but it appears your o2 sensor is working. What I posted above applies to narrow bands o2 sensors. Maybe wideband also but it won't have a 0.450 volt bias voltage. HPTuners is not the best at being a diagnostic scanner.
Stretch2126
Well-Known Member
So would the cl fault just be from being lean? Unless my table I made is wrong again I’m confused about the -90 percent on my scan. That would also make a lot of sense considering the b1s2 “holds” 460mv even though it doesn’t exist.