Wheels, tires and brakes.

[PHerder]

Some states have a law that it has to be a mechanical e-brake as the hydraulic version can leak down and release.

 

[BAR-AIR]

DOT requirements state mechanical brake separate from the normal braking system. Must hold the car with it in drive with a slight increase in power. There is a question with regards to having one on each back tire though. On an automatic one maybe all that is needed in NY. didn't feel like squabbling over it though so I did put one on each back tire. (Trust me if I could have used line locks I would have).....

 

[PHerder]

I believe one of the Stalker builders mounted a disc on the drive shaft mount at the rear end and put a single mechanical brake caliper on it to get thru his state's vehicle requirement. He had changed to all disc brakes and lost the mechanical e-brake from the drum brakes.

 

[Bretter]

Here are a couple of photos of the clearances with the calipers. The first two are of the front the rims are Rota Grid V fronts are 15x7 with a 15 offset. I did run into issues with the calipers bottoming out into the rim (ended up grinding the caliper down and then adding 20 mm spacers otherwise it was just to tight). Probably just my rim selection. Also a side note Adam had to remake the front fender mount due to how far my tires actually stick out. Most of the Goblins front rim actually covers the entire front caliper.View attachment 1990 View attachment 1991This is the photo of the rear again Rota Grid V 15x8 0 offset. Ended up using the same 20mm spacer on the rear in hind sight was really not necessary in the rear. View attachment 1992
The only thing that is nice about the spacer in the rear is that it gives you a little more room for the emergency brake. As you can see in the photos no way to run the cable in the up direction just not enough room. (Can't even imagine trying to do that brake with a rim set that has a large offset.
View attachment 1994
View attachment 1995

Thanks! Wow that is tight on the front! The ones I am looking at have a 40mm offset, which is really close to where you ended up at 35 with the 20mm spacer which is encouraging.

Starting to think I might should be looking at 16's from the front...

 

[Bretter]

A 40mm offset with wheels that narrow should be no issue clearance wise. FWIW, I have the Controls (in 16") on my DD, pretty happy with them. They aren't super lightweight like some of Konig's flow-formed wheels (Hypergram, Dial-in, etc), but they're hard to beat for the price, and with a non-SS powerplant, 225 should be plenty wide. If you wanted to go wider and still stay reasonably priced, I'd recommend the Konig Oversteer in 16/17 (no 15 unfortunately), though you'll have to have DF re-drill your hubs to 5x114.3.

Thanks Tony - we aren't looking at track racing at all right now so it seems to flow pretty well with what you are seeing.

 

[Tony]

Just a clarification, when I say the 40 offset should clear with no issue, I'm talking about face-forward style rims (which the Konigs we talked about are). That mean the face/spokes are flush with the outside of the rim, giving plenty of clearance between the back of the spokes and the mounting surface. It looks like in BAR-AIR's case, the Rotas have somewhat of a dish, so the spokes are pushed back closer to the mounting face, which led to the tight fit despite the low offset. Basically, offset and width will tell you how close to the suspension the inside lip of the rim will be, but you have to look at the actual rim design to determine brake clearance.

 

[Bretter]

Just a clarification, when I say the 40 offset should clear with no issue, I'm talking about face-forward style rims (which the Konigs we talked about are). That mean the face/spokes are flush with the outside of the rim, giving plenty of clearance between the back of the spokes and the mounting surface. It looks like in BAR-AIR's case, the Rotas have somewhat of a dish, so the spokes are pushed back closer to the mounting face, which led to the tight fit despite the low offset. Basically, offset and width will tell you how close to the suspension the inside lip of the rim will be, but you have to look at the actual rim design to determine brake clearance.

Got it - thanks!

 

[Boostless]

After reading through the tread, I'm hopin someone can drop some knowledge on some of the questions I still have.. Why is a staggered setup favored over a square, won't it be best on the track to have plenty of rubber up front? That way you get the plus of tire rotations. Also, why not have 15s in the back as well 949's 15x10 6UL's would hold plenty of tire and be the lightest weight setup (compared to 16's or 17's). Im not sure how extreme having this much meat would be, but for a turbo track build, I don't know if you can ever have enough

 

[ctuinstra]

Really nice build you have there! Love the parking brakes.

You might consider adjusting the heim joint to better match that of the caster angle. It could put a bind on the joint under full extension or deflection.