V1 Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

[RGSkid70]

On my build, the light green wire connected to the position sensor on the transmission takes a roundabout path but ends up connecting directly to the reverse lights embedded in the tail lights. the sensor has 12v in, normally open, and when the sensor trips, the light green wire delivers 12v to the lights. Very simple circuit. Check if the input wire is live 12v. When the transmission is in reverse, the sensor light green wire should show 12v. If necessary, you can run a wire directly from the sensor to the lights, and skip debugging the harness.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Thanks gents. That appears to have solved the leak. I think I'll sit and watch it for a bit before moving on to bleeding the thing.

Also 86ed the counterweight to help gain access to the clutch elbow. I hit all 5 gears and reverse now. Still no reverse lights though. Fuse is good. Head scratcher but it can wait.

View attachment 48755

That pesky seal! Thankfully the trans can be removed without removing the engine but it is a day’s work for one tech. Fingers crossed it was just that pesky seal!

 

[Traé]

dug in there and got the elbow out. Used a pick to get this little gasket out of the elbow. Is it supposed to go on the tip of the pipe before I put the elbow back on? @Traé is this what was wrong with yours?
View attachment 48753View attachment 48754

Sorry for not responding but yes that was the issue and it looks like others got you the right answer!

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Tried to wire up the button panel this morning. I discovered that I need the late model wiring kit. My harness has a single green/white wire labeled "info and return" instead of the paired green and pink wires. It's odd bc my donor is a 2006, which I thought should have been the early model.

 

[Markm]

depending on the steering wheel determined what button harness is needed. My car (2007) has 3 spoke wheel needing the late model but my donor didn’t have cruise so I added some wires hoping that’s all I need for the cruise to work. I’ll be doing button wiring in a few days

 

[Traé]

Tried to wire up the button panel this morning. I discovered that I need the late model wiring kit. My harness has a single green/white wire labeled "info and return" instead of the paired green and pink wires. It's odd bc my donor is a 2006, which I thought should have been the early model.View attachment 48827

V1 - Ghostknife's #383 Track SS/SC

Also I have a wideband hooked up now.

dfkitcar.com

 

[TheAnesthetist]

V1 - Ghostknife's #383 Track SS/SC

Also I have a wideband hooked up now.

dfkitcar.com

That's the post that led me to my conclusion. The harness I'm using was purchased from another user. I was told it's from a 2006 but that seems to be incorrect. My original wiring harness has the pink and green wires but this harness has the single green wire.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Sit rep on adding sliders to my seats: I've tried several different configurations and every one of them leaves the seat too high. I have an unusually long torso and hit my helmet on the roof bars. The DF mounts work well but anything higher than that doesn't work. Despite my torso length, I have a short inseam (i know, it's a weird body but it's the one I've got lol) and reaching the accelerator is a bit of a stretch even with the seat in the forward position. I'll be printing off @OptimizePrime's pedal extension.

Tried to bleed the clutch last night and discovered that I don't actually own a 9mm wrench so that means a trip to Home Depot after work today. Then all that's left to make it driveable is to bolt in the harnesses, mount the seats, and do the alignment/reclock the steering wheel.

 

[Joebob]

Sit rep on adding sliders to my seats: I've tried several different configurations and every one of them leaves the seat too high. I have an unusually long torso and hit my helmet on the roof bars. The DF mounts work well but anything higher than that doesn't work. Despite my torso length, I have a short inseam (i know, it's a weird body but it's the one I've got lol) and reaching the accelerator is a bit of a stretch even with the seat in the forward position. I'll be printing off @OptimizePrime's pedal extension.

Tried to bleed the clutch last night and discovered that I don't actually own a 9mm wrench so that means a trip to Home Depot after work today. Then all that's left to make it driveable is to bolt in the harnesses, mount the seats, and do the alignment/reclock the steering wheel.

Send pics of what you are doing for seating. If you got the side mounts, you may be able to have the flanges face outward and have the slider arms wide apart. This might allow you to mount the seats on the lowest holes in the side bracket and actually extend below the bracket flange and gain some extra head room.

Another option is to fabricate custom seat mounts to position everything as low as possible. I made my brackets mount only 1/2" above the frame which was the minimum height for the seat bottom to clear the submarine belt bracket.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

The side mounts are ~23" wide but the width between the tunnel is only 20". I tried reversing them so the brackets would be under the seat but they're not a 90° bend and it makes for a wacky angle.

Your setup is exactly what I'd do if I knew the first thing about welding. I'm pretty good with a wrench but that kind of metal fabrication is beyond my skills. I'm going to hold on to these sliders and figure out a way to use them in the future.

 

[Joebob]

I taught myself making seat brackets for my classic lincoln and this was the second major project. A cheap welder, wire, helmet, gloves, table, and metal and it could all be yours. I tell my friends, it is hot glue gunning for adults. Just look at the build logs for @Desert Sasqwatch, he can't stop he is having such a good time. All in I have maybe $300 in tools for welding. Not a fancy welder but it works well.

Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder

Amazing deals on this Easy-Flux 125Amp Flux Welder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Joe

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Cushy seats are thick, by at least 3 inches, over an aluminum racing seat. I know, because I tried cushy race-style seats at first and my head was just touching the overhead bars (track frame). @AZmoto (Paul) is taller than I am and had Kirky aluminum seats in his Goblin. These gave much more headroom and enough space to wear a helmet and still be legal (below the overhead bar level). I installed Jegs 18.5 inch wide aluminum seats - fit inside the cockpit framing and fits my sqwatchy backside like glove.

This type of seat has side mounted brackets and they bolt in only about 1.5 inches above the frame rails. For a long torso or tall height these are probably a better option. If you plan to do any tracking, these seats will meet most ruling body requirements.

Sorry not the greatest photo, but gives an idea of the mounting. Just wanted to let you know of other options.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Finished up the seats and harnesses. I'll eventually have to figure out a way to get myself closer to these pedals. I like @Joebob's design so hopefully Santa will bring me a welder this year. As it sits now, my right elbow hits the seatback when I pull the shifter into 2nd and 4th. Moving the seat even further forward will make this worse. I also don't need to be any closer to the steering wheel. I might have to look into moving the pedal box instead.

These sear mounts fought me every step of the way. It took a bunch of trial and error to get the DF mounts in the correct orientation. Then the bottom of the seat hit the bolt for the antisubmarine belt so I had to grind it shorter. These harnesses expire 6/2026 and I'm thinking I'll go with a 4pt after that. I'll make a harness bar to raise the shoulder belts once Ive had a little welding practice

 

[Traé]

Finished up the seats and harnesses. I'll eventually have to figure out a way to get myself closer to these pedals. I like @Joebob's design so hopefully Santa will bring me a welder this year. As it sits now, my right elbow hits the seatback when I pull the shifter into 2nd and 4th. Moving the seat even further forward will make this worse. I also don't need to be any closer to the steering wheel. I might have to look into moving the pedal box instead.

These sear mounts fought me every step of the way. It took a bunch of trial and error to get the DF mounts in the correct orientation. Then the bottom of the seat hit the bolt for the antisubmarine belt so I had to grind it shorter. These harnesses expire 6/2026 and I'm thinking I'll go with a 4pt after that. I'll make a harness bar to raise the shoulder belts once Ive had a little welding practice

View attachment 48854

The holes in the shifter arm let you adjust the throw, the top hole will give you the shortest and may help your arm from hitting the seat. I have mine in the lowest hole per the instructional video but haven’t tried the others yet.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

That's a good point. I've got in it the bottom position currently. I originally had it in the top hole but it felt like it was binding up and hard to find the gears on occasion. Maybe the middle one is the sweet spot.

 

[Markm]

Finished up the seats and harnesses. I'll eventually have to figure out a way to get myself closer to these pedals. I like @Joebob's design so hopefully Santa will bring me a welder this year. As it sits now, my right elbow hits the seatback when I pull the shifter into 2nd and 4th. Moving the seat even further forward will make this worse. I also don't need to be any closer to the steering wheel. I might have to look into moving the pedal box instead.

These sear mounts fought me every step of the way. It took a bunch of trial and error to get the DF mounts in the correct orientation. Then the bottom of the seat hit the bolt for the antisubmarine belt so I had to grind it shorter. These harnesses expire 6/2026 and I'm thinking I'll go with a 4pt after that. I'll make a harness bar to raise the shoulder belts once Ive had a little welding practice

View attachment 48854

I got the pre notched harness bars from DF you’ll have to call and ask but they were I think $30 including shipping.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Or you could make one yourself, since Santa will be bringing a welder (maybe need it earlier than Christmas ).

Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Just a note from the Engineer in me: the Goblin suspension has effectively no anti-dive and minimal anti-squat geometry built into the stock frame and donor subframe. This is one of the latest items that I have been reviewing and contemplating how to design/modify to gain these aspects into my...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Traé]

depending how much closer you need to be to the pedals, here’s a post of someone that redrilled the steering wheel mount holes to move it back a bit.

V1 - Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

That’s a crank/cam correlation problem. Cam timing could be wrong (off a tooth, something jumped, worn chain, etc), it could be wiring or could just need a crank/cam recalibration via tech2, but it has to be running somewhat properly to do that.

dfkitcar.com

Or get a nice pair of platform shoes for driving

 

[Robinjo]

I got the pre notched harness bars from DF you’ll have to call and ask but they were I think $30 including shipping.

photos of these bars?

 

[Markm]

photos of these bars?

I didn’t get a picture of them before welding them in